Subhorn Construction techniques?

[mikee12345]

Hi

I have a cutlist for a horn -



I may still have to fiddle with the actual wood lengths.but for the most part its ready.

What methods of construction can u reccomend? ive built a jbl 175litre box, and a 50litre box recently which ended up like it shows below.

Where should i start? the throat or at the mouth.
Ofcourse i dry screw it first

what order should i do it?
how do i ensure that the thing stays where i want?

i think il draw up on the inside of the side,where all the parts will go,and then il notice if they go wonky when im screwing,glueing.
link
Il have silicon on hand too for filling those dodgy bits.



The joiner will cut my horn box.Il have a good chat so he knows the plan.

this is my last box that went spaz because of the wobbly brace i had to cut myself with a rusty skillsaw .





Cheers

[michael]

Where should i start? the throat or at the mouth

it doesnt really matter which part you start at because it would be easier to do it all at the same time., but i suggest cutting all your wood on a table circular saw, run all the internal walls, top, bottom, front and back... setu the table saw for 340mm (that is it isnt it?) and then run all the pieces though it, giving you uniformity, this way when they are attached to the sides it will squeeze together nicely.

hope that this helps ya mike

[SkinnyBoy]

yeah.. work from the side... assuming the wood is cut right, it should go together perfectally..

[mikee12345]

should


Thanks

The joiner guy cuts accurately,that 340mm depth wil be accurate.its the angles im worrying about..and the facti used a CAD program for the entire thing this time.1st time using.

[Ilianh]

and the facti used a CAD program for the entire thing this time.1st time using.

God, I wish I had something similar for horn holding, I hate doing it by hand...

What are you using?

I made my mathcad sheet to convert a exponential horn to a multi segment conical horn, but now I cant fold...

[mikee12345]

Qcad
it was free
now it seems to be unavailable.i can send to u.4mb file.

email me
osmium_thumb@hotmail.com

[macky888]

Remember that you'll want to have access to the driver so you can install and remove it, so one of the panels should be removable, I'd suggest the one which is right below the magnet (the one marked 51.53cm on your diagram). The driver would have to be back mounted in the rear chamber so you can remove it via access from the removable panel. That way only one panel will need to be removable. Use a small rubber or foam gasket around the wood strip which it will rest on, and screw it and make sure the screws can be removed. A cross brass inside the back chamber will help too, the removable panel would also screw into this and these screws should be removable so don't fill the hole with glue.

As for the order of building - it doesn't matter too much, but it can sometimes. Make sure that your not going to build part of it, and then find you need to put another piece inside it and find that you can't because its closed off... thats why I typically work from the "inside", and then keep working out so you don't run into any problems. This was a major aspect when I built my 300L 18LW1400 box, I had to do it all in a very specific order so that I knew I could install all the bracing without problems.

Adrian