Dayton Audio ND105-4 ( Aura NS4 ) for computer monitors - MTM or TMM or TM ? - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Loudspeakers > Multi-Way

Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 26th April 2013, 05:55 PM   #1
diyAudio Member
 
Jimmy154's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: NH, USA
Default Dayton Audio ND105-4 ( Aura NS4 ) for computer monitors - MTM or TMM or TM ?

Are there any draw-backs to using an MTM for computer speakers?
Should I use a small neo-tweeter in the middle or an XT25 (104 mm flange) tweeter?

Is a 2.5 way better with the Aura's (8 ohm)?
Or just forget both and build a TM 2-way with the Aura's or Dayton's?
Are there any differences in the drivers other than the impedance?
__________________
I give up lol

Last edited by Jimmy154; 26th April 2013 at 06:06 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 27th April 2013, 03:16 AM   #2
diyAudio Member
 
Jimmy154's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: NH, USA
TMT or TMM or TM
__________________
I give up lol
  Reply With Quote
Old 27th April 2013, 04:35 AM   #3
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: North Texas, USA
FWIW, the ND105-4 is not an Aura NS-4. They are similar but the measured specs are different.
__________________
I was so much older then, I'm younger than that now.
  Reply With Quote
Old 27th April 2013, 03:56 PM   #4
jReave is offline jReave  Canada
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
For computer speakers, I would think that box size would be a key consideration and then after that, how low you want them to play and how loud.

Run the Aura NS3 and the Dayton ND90, ND91 and ND105 through a box sim program to see what best suits your situation. The NS3 will be the cheapest, the ND91 suits the smallest box and the ND105 goes the lowest but in the biggest box.

Obviously, using 2 drivers will double your box size but also give you extra SPL capability that you may not actually need for near field computer listening.
  Reply With Quote
Old 28th April 2013, 01:31 AM   #5
diyAudio Member
 
Jimmy154's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: NH, USA
Quote:
Originally Posted by jReave View Post
Obviously, using 2 drivers will double your box size but also give you extra SPL capability that you may not actually need for near field computer listening.
Yeah, I don't know what's wrong with me
I'm always affair I don't have something really loud, even though I don't listen loud 99.999% of the time.
__________________
I give up lol
  Reply With Quote
Old 5th May 2013, 01:06 PM   #6
diyAudio Member
 
Jimmy154's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: NH, USA
I think I might have to scrap this design.
Once I start planning a build more and more, I realize it takes more effort than I thought to build the pair of speakers and then I feel like if I use drivers that are this cheap it should take me only 1-2 hours to build some speakers.
If I'm going to put more time than 1-2 hours to build speakers, why start with cheap drivers.
The crappy frame is what especially gets me.
I have to do mental gymnastics to figure out how to mount this garbage in a descent way.
__________________
I give up lol

Last edited by Jimmy154; 5th May 2013 at 01:10 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 6th May 2013, 01:23 PM   #7
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: North Texas, USA
Default Clueless

The frames are challenging, but these aren't cheap drivers. They're well built and give surprising performance. There are a number of successful designs and builds if you'd have searched.

What gave you the idea you could build anything decent in 1 to 2 hours?

Oh, you could rear mount the drivers.

The garbage comment is clearly ignorant.
__________________
I was so much older then, I'm younger than that now.
  Reply With Quote
Old 6th May 2013, 07:06 PM   #8
Ronion is offline Ronion  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
A line array of small full rangers sounds like a better idea. I've never built a speaker in a couple. A couple months has been more my pace. It's part of the attraction of just buying completed products. To bad they never seem to make exactly what you want.
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th May 2013, 01:27 AM   #9
diyAudio Member
 
Jimmy154's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: NH, USA
Guess I kind of lost my patience with this driver.
If you don't like the word garbage, I can do flimsy. Which to me means garbage.
But they are cheap. So I guess the adage "you get what you pay for" holds true.
I thought the Aura was built a little better than the Dayton, but I'm not sure.
I did model the drivers, the Aura drivers have the same FR in a box the same size as the Daytons, but the Auras need a port twice as long due to having double the BL, I assume.
And I figure a higher BL couldn't hurt. Also not so sure about that one.

The main problem is I can't route out the back of baffle with the box construction I have in mind. I planned on routing a single shape and stacking pieces of wood onto each other.
I think my new idea is just to build a 2-way with a 5-7 inch woofer and a tweeter, but it's going to be so close to my head the of axis response is going to suffer.

I guess I'm just into rugged drivers, especially frames. I found a lot of HiVi frames to be very well built.
Except for a few ones made with stamped steel frames.
__________________
I give up lol

Last edited by Jimmy154; 12th May 2013 at 01:55 AM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th May 2013, 04:46 PM   #10
jReave is offline jReave  Canada
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
I think the greatest benefit of the drivers you're looking at is their large xmax and how low they play in relatively small boxes. The frames however are definitely a place that they are cutting their costs. I've got 6 of the ND91-8 sitting around waiting for me to do something with but I'm probably going to beef up the frames with fiberglass as a first step. Either way, I will be rear mounting them.

So first things first I'd say is defining your design parameters - f3, sub or not, vented or sealed, costs, level of desired sound quality, time allotment, etc., etc.

Also, there is no reason that a translam (stacked layers of high quality plywood) can't be built with a front baffle. The speaker that popularized this style used both a front and rear baffle attached with threaded rods. See below. Btw, I would strongly recommend a router table for this type of construction. Makes things a lot easier.

SB Acoustics and the Peerless HDS Nomex series are some other high quality good value drivers with solid frames if they are available to you at a good price.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg strip_detail1.jpg (82.3 KB, 173 views)
File Type: jpg strip_detail2.jpg (60.1 KB, 170 views)
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
WTB Aura/dayton type bass shakers speakrsrfun Swap Meet 0 18th February 2012 05:13 PM
Aura Ns4 inertial Multi-Way 3 4th June 2009 04:48 PM
High resolution mini monitor? Aura NS4? 300Z Multi-Way 5 31st May 2006 07:36 AM
Aura NS3 or NS4 for slim MTM setup? silvercans Multi-Way 2 2nd December 2005 09:12 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 05:52 PM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2