Bought a lathe so I can turn horns

[djn]

djn ... you need the cages to shroud the blades. A snapped bandsaw blade is unpredictable.

Yep, if you look at the pix, it covers the whole blade. My shortened two finger tips will attest to the unpredictability of a broken saw blade.

"I ain't afraid of snakes, but I won't put my finger in it's mouth" (Mike Perry)

 

[Speedysteve7]

not necessarily.

A 3way horn system with 3octaves per horn results in 9octaves, or about 40Hz to 20kHz.

a 4way system with the top three all of ~2.7octaves horns and a non-horn low bass speaker can get to over 10octaves and cover the 20Hz to 20kHz bandwidth and yet stay well within the 3octave horn limitation,

If one had enough space then, a 4way horn system can get to around 11octaves.

Maths wise yes.
Size wise, maybe. Still people build 5 ways for a reason... sound and ease of horn, driver quality and choice.

 

[puppet]

Tough to see in the pic's (for me at least). I've got a big Yates. He's completely covered top and bottom. Brass or bearing guides on the Crescent? Blade width capacity?

 

[AndrewT]

djn ... you need the cages to shroud the blades.

Yes,
Fortunately the blade has very little inertia and stops very quickly and does not need a strong cage to keep it controlled.

The main inertia is in the drive and guide pulleys and they are constrained by their axles.

If you can go and look at some enclosed blade band saws and ask them to open the door/s so you can see what needs to be done.

 

[Pano]

It would be nice to keep this thread on the topic of turning horns, we have other threads for horn and system design.

 

[djn]

Good thought Pano. If you look at the Yuichi horns, I can turn a disc, then cut it in quarters, take one of the quarters to the band saw and cut an inverted curve on each side, then flip one quarter upside down on top of the other quarter, put on the curved sides and Bob's your uncle......I have a 300hz horn.

1 minute to write it out and 3 days to make a horn

 

[Don Bunce]

Here are a few pics of how I turned my 345 Hz Tractrix horns. They have a 2" throat,12.5" mouth,and are 9" deep. 14" outside dia.

I cut out and glued circles of MDF,was too lazy to cut out the centers.

The outside was turned freehand,and I used the setup shown to cut the inside.

The 3/4" boring bar was a bit flimsy,so light cuts had to be taken to prevent chatter. While I was turning,I wished I had taken the time to cut out the inside circles.

The pattern and follower at the bottom prevents the tool from cutting too deep,so you don't have to constantly stop to check your progress with a template.

 

[robotbunny]

hmm, three days for a hyperbolic horn. When will you have the "add to cart" button on your webpage?

Do the side walls have to share the same profile as the upper and bottom on a hyperbolic, like on a k horn? Otherwise, from one turning, you could potentially have a matched pair (upper and bottom) yes? I'm just scratching the surface in hornresp...

 

[djn]

Here are a few pics of how I turned my 345 Hz Tractrix horns. They have a 2" throat,12.5" mouth,and are 9" deep. 14" outside dia.

I cut out and glued circles of MDF,was too lazy to cut out the centers.

The outside was turned freehand,and I used the setup shown to cut the inside.

The 3/4" boring bar was a bit flimsy,so light cuts had to be taken to prevent chatter. While I was turning,I wished I had taken the time to cut out the inside circles.

The pattern and follower at the bottom prevents the tool from cutting too deep,so you don't have to constantly stop to check your progress with a template.

Love your lathe Don!!! I really like that pattern you use. I'll have to give that a try. I use a 1/4" plywood template now and have to keep holding it up to check progress.

hmm, three days for a hyperbolic horn. When will you have the "add to cart" button on your webpage?

Do the side walls have to share the same profile as the upper and bottom on a hyperbolic, like on a k horn? Otherwise, from one turning, you could potentially have a matched pair (upper and bottom) yes? I'm just scratching the surface in hornresp...

No "add to cart" yet. I am just messing around combining my two passions.

The sidewalls on the rectangular horns don't have much profile to them. And, yes, one disc will give me a pair of horns.

 

[djn]

Here are pix of it's new home. The guy told me it was a 3hp, 3ph motor but it is a 1hp, 1ph repulsion/induction motor from Montgomery Ward. It sat on the wood platform hanging off the side.

 

[puppet]

He needs to be broken down and scrubbed good. Pic #4 is where all the action is. Carter used to make some parts to refit older saws ... might get some ideas there (ball bearings are the way to go). How are the tires? .... look kind of rough in the pic's.

 

[djn]

Tires are shot. But they may still keep the belt on. I will replace them with the new urethane tires. I put them on my little Craftsman and it was a lot quieter and seem to run smoother.

That guide system is antiquated compared to the new style but it worked for 90 years.

 

[Datubie]

Isn't so bad if you use cloth or strips. Draw the shape of the "petals' on some cloth, cut out and laminate! Too lazy to wait for conventional resin to dry? Use the UV cure epoxy and a 4ft black light tube. Sets in 5-10 mins.

Then I would have to deal with fiber glass......ick!

 

[djn]

I've built entire planes out of fiberglass. If I never see it again, it will be too soon. I think I developed a slight reaction to it which is not unusual.

 

[djn]

I desided to turn my first horns as 1200hz tractrix out of ash logs. They will crack in time but that can look cool too.

 

[weltersys]

But it (WD40) is good for a lubricant which knocking the rust off.

After using CorrosionX, I'd never go back to WD 40.
CorrosionX really will clean up rust, and will last far longer than kerosene based lubes. More expensive, but a better value.

It lasts for a long time even in salt air, and is safe on electronics- they used to demonstrate a TV working completely immersed in the stuff.
Really good for eliminating bi-mettallic corrosion.

I need to order more, but have three or four cans of other stuff to use up before I do.

With the tons of pretty iron you have, some CorrosionX would be a good investment.

Art

 

[jcx]

I desided to turn my first horns as 1200hz tractrix out of ash logs. They will crack in time but that can look cool too.

PEG-1000 soak after turning?

 

[Pano]

Interesting idea....
More info here:
http://owic.oregonstate.edu/sites/default/files/pubs/peg.pdf

 

[bear]

There is an outfit called "Strong Arm Sprays" very very good for metal restoration - on the web.

As far as Ash, not so great for turning, imo. Consider some maple?
Get ur feet wet on simple pine... just to see how stuff works...

You can make up blocks to have the heatstock and tail stock lifted up machined for you (or you can make) and get more swing...

If you want to consider laying up a horn, fiberglass is not the only choice, Martin Seddon reveals all of his methods on his site. FYI...

_-_-bear

 

[djn]

I'd never use pine. I did that years ago and the tear out drove me nuts. I happen to have Ash logs on hand. My inboard swing is 30" and my outboard swing is 84" so I don't need to change the configurations.

I'll check out the Strong Arm Sprays.....thanks.