System Pictures & Description

stonehenge 3

Hi All!

I built these speakers in 2003.
I call them "stonehenge 3", for obvious reason. "3" = I've previously made two other similar pairs with the same surface.
I have none of these loudspeakers any more, all of them exchanged for other devices, e.g. A good desktop PC for those pictured here.
Unfortunately, I do not have much documentation about the speakers because the data have disappeared along with a hard drive into Nirvana.
Recently I visited the current owner of the boxes and was able to take some quick pictures.
I have now also found some handwritten notes: Thus, the speaker chassis are cheap remainders from Conrad and in the cases of the midrange and the (modified) crossover-PCB from a slaughtered ITT speaker box.
245mm Woofer: "Europa, CL 250" :)confused:)
Midrange: "ITT, LPM 130"
Tweeter: "Speaka, HT60 / 80"
 

Attachments

  • stonehenge-3_01.jpg
    stonehenge-3_01.jpg
    164.3 KB · Views: 2,408
  • stonehenge-3_02.jpg
    stonehenge-3_02.jpg
    677.8 KB · Views: 2,545
Current System - To be replaced!

Most of the specs for these have been lost to PC upgrades, but this is the system that I currently listen to, and will be replacing in the near future (see my post with the design thoughts and questions I currently have?)

Center channel makes noise, but has some pretty serious design flaws. It was my 3rd build and first attempt at crossover from scratch. Drivers are spaced too far apart, forgot that the tweeter was 6 ohm in x-over design (ran for 8 ohm numbers), and the woofers are in separate chambers - one sealed, one ported. Just weird. I was able to work on box construction technique and learned how to do a Piano finish, though - good experience! Not sure what I will do with this when I build my new setup...
Towers were my 4th build. Found some 8" drivers on clearance, and spent a little bit of $ on the Seas Prestige 5.5" mid and Vifa D27SG15 tweeter . Proceeded to make weird design choices and probably butcher the x-over (cannot remember any specs). Really stepped up cabinet construction, learned veneer. Pretty good sound - the best thing I can say about them is that they are not fatiguing to listen to and they will get loud. I know I am missing detail somewhere, but at least my ears don't hurt. These are quality drivers, and I will likely re-use them in a completely re-designed tower for the 2-channel listening space my wife and I are setting up in our front sitting room.
System is driven by a Pioneer Elite SC-05 receiver (have yet to even default the unit and set up for my own space after buying used). Sony PS3 plays round things and streams. Denon DP-300F turntable with DL-110 cartridge spins vinyl. I'll end up moving the turntable into the front room for dedicated 2-channel space and the living room will end up strictly digital.
 

Attachments

  • audio system 2.jpg
    audio system 2.jpg
    110.1 KB · Views: 3,007
Latest build is Creativesound V1 bookshelf 2-way. These are a Christmas gift for my sister. VWR-126X mid-woofer and LD22 tweeter. Base was made from pine stair tread.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20171104_144451.jpg
    IMG_20171104_144451.jpg
    29.4 KB · Views: 2,459
  • IMG_20171104_152729.jpg
    IMG_20171104_152729.jpg
    192.8 KB · Views: 2,405
  • IMG_20171104_152744.jpg
    IMG_20171104_152744.jpg
    89.2 KB · Views: 2,391
I used black satin spray paint followed by a light coat of a textured "stone" style spray paint. I've been playing with the stone paints for a while and learned some lessons:

It works best to have a complete base colour already. The stone paint is basically just specks of materials. It cannot be relied on to supply coverage without really overdoing the texture. It works best, IMO, as an accent coat on an otherwise finished product.

As well, definitely do a test spray before going on a finished speaker, each can sprays a bit different and its easy to over do. It's almost best to imagine you are "throwing" the material onto the speaker, big sweeping movements with quick little bursts of the valve. Especially if you only want an accent.

After the stone paint I covered with a couple of coats of spray on polyurethane. This is important because the textured paint will collect dust and dirt easily and will not wipe clean otherwise.
 
retro-thermionic: "VoXDeuX65" - 2-Way with 6.5" woofer\mid and Isodynamic ribbon tweeter

The Houston Finish I have used on all my speakers is done with a roller. The method is used on the primary coat also.

First use only a high quality paint. Go over the whole speaker box with a very wet roller just once. Do not add any more paint from this point. Now go over the box three times with the same roller adding no more paint. So what you are doing is teasing out the stipple the roller is producing. The paint is starting to thicken and dry as you go over the with the drying roller. Only go in one direction. After three dryer rolls and with the primer coat being teased the same you get a thick stippled pro, dull (though gloss paint) finish. It is sound dead and light dead. After a month it is quite tough.

Take a look at the link.
 
Fan less HTPC with JRiver and Audiolense software DSP.
8 channel RME Fireface UC USB soundcard.

Bass; 6×12" GPA 414 in SLOB.

Midbass; 2×15" Eminence beta in OB.

Midrange; Jantzen JA8008 HES in vented box.

Tweeter; TAD 2001 in Eighteensound XT1086 horn.

Still playing with crossovers, sounds ok with 150, 700, and 1400 for the moment.
This is a waiting-system, not finished. Will get a JMLC400 for the TAD, and maybe a Fostex T500 tweeter. And double GPA 12" for the midbass.

470132d1512579011-bergfinns-tukle-hja-rne-20171206_174213.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user