System Pictures & Description

Does this graph include your dual cheap 4'' TL subs response ?

Hey, you remember those? I ditched those a while ago. Currently I'm running my Open Baffle main-panels and my Shiva. I don't know what the dip is about, but right now my system is in an unfinished basement that is wide open.

Any comments on the graph are welcome. I'm still trying to understand most of it...
 
Bose(o) said:


Hey, you remember those?


Yeah, but I'm still septic they could have stunned your dads 15'';) . What about your shiva ?

You gave the resp graph but you did't elaborate alot on your units, as you had no pic I guess. Well, if I remmeber correctly you had a pic with one of your Tl ( 12incher I think ) which you were sitting by.

I see that you lack a few highs, did you used a fullrange or a tweeter? Or it might be your the spl metter ?

Well, if it's not your XO, the dip around 100Hz might be your dipole's rolloff but how come the sub doesn't go higher...yeah don't know ;)
 
My system:
Loudspeakers: SEAS Thor diy
Sub: DIY 2x SEAS W26FX001, Hypex HS500 amp
Poweramp: Copland CSA 515
Preamp: Copland CSA 303
CD-player: Sony XA555ES
DVD-player: H/K dvd20
Loudspeaker cables: Kimber monocle X
Interconnects: Monster m1000 mk3 and Tara Labs ref gen 2
Powercable for poweramp: MIT Z-chord 2

The sound: GREAT!!
 

Attachments

  • lytteposisjon.jpg
    lytteposisjon.jpg
    38.7 KB · Views: 11,129
I agree with guss

Maybe I am the poorest audio freak in the world......some of these rigs look to be about....let's see here.....5,000,000 times the money I have leftover after the bills are paid...Then again I am a college student. I enjoy seeing everyone's rigs though. Maybe someday I will have something completed to put on here.
 
Re: I agree with guss

Konnichiwa,

Guss said:
Could be interesting to mention the total cost of your system guys...

sauuuuuce said:
Maybe I am the poorest audio freak in the world......some of these rigs look to be about....let's see here.....5,000,000 times the money I have leftover after the bills are paid...Then again I am a college student. I enjoy seeing everyone's rigs though. Maybe someday I will have something completed to put on here.

Well, it seems that some folks are uncommonly concerned about the cost of Systems. While my system is arguably not cheap, let's postulate a simple and "quite good" DIY Audio system that remains quite affordable.

Let's start with speakers.

The Seas T18RE COAX/TV is a 6.5" Coaxial Driver that can work in a small "Bookself" type enclosure with a minimal X-Over. Simply stick a good quality 2u2 Capacitor in series with the Tweeter, done. The Driver will work okay in a modest size sealed box but will obviously need a subwoofer. Place into a 10l sealed or 15L box vented at 50Hz and you have a nice "Monitor" Style Speaker with pretty good sound.

You could build a Transmission line or TQWT or even horn for the Seas Driver if you have access to proper woodworking tools.

If you buy the Madisound WS802 Enclosure Pair and a pair of T18RE COAX/TV from Madisound, -plus the cap's for the X-Over you are down around $ 350 plus shipping charged.

Drive this from a Scott Nixon Ampkit with LM3875 "Gainclone" which can be build including decent looking case for < $ 200 from scratch and add a DacKit DAC, supplied from a 12V Battery, again < $ 200 including case should be possible, assuming a commercial case.

Add a nice 2nd Hand CD Player or a cheap DVD Player as Drive and you have a pretty good quality DIY Audio System that can look quite professional too for < $ 1,000. Add a DIY Subwoofer (< 50Hz down to at least 25Hz) after your plastic has recovered and convert the Gainclone to Battery Supply (4 X 12V SLA Battery - as big as you can possibly afford) you are rocking.

Having heard systems similar to the one described before I can assure you the sound is quite exceptional and shows off most modern "High End" systems sonically, unless you of course like that overblown, fake "High End" sound we know from the usual brands and hate so well. I could probably live with something like it if I had to.

Now if you are a student you should be able to save drastically by using your Universities or Colledges workshops to do all the casework yourself and maybe you can save on electronic components too via free samples and discounts from suppliers.

Sayonara

PS, total cost of my system as it stands at the moment well > $ 20,000 but that is because it contains loads of commercial gear.
 
Konnichiwa,

michael said:
i really dont mean to offend anyone but can anyone tell me why all us DIYers have our fantastic diy speakers subs etc all connected to either an old computer and/or a small 48cm tv, perhaps if diy tvs were practical we would have huge ones, any thoughts?

ALL OF US?

Please speak for yourself.

I have had a 32" Sony Widescreen since around 96 and contemplateing switching to a Plasma TV (except I don't watch much TV and the wife sayd "the old one is big enough") and my PC is a pretty recent slinky balck Dell, TFT Flat Screen and all.

Sayonara
 
michael said:
i really dont mean to offend anyone but can anyone tell me why all us DIYers have our fantastic diy speakers subs etc all connected to either an old computer and/or a small 48cm tv, perhaps if diy tvs were practical we would have huge ones, any thoughts?

You mean in terms of home theater?

I have an 28" and most other tv's I've seen in this thread are like that.

Furthermore: my computer isn't old at all (AMD Athlon 2400+, 640MB ram, 17" LG flatscreen), so your proposition is false.

Now that we're on the subject of computers, I'd like to recommend my own little 'Silent Computer' project and recommendations:
http://www.prijsindex.net/cgi-bin/prijsindex.pl?lib=niels_projects_silent-computer
 
My system in its current unfinished state. And the beast in basement that powers it. Subs, Sub amps, surround amps and some more speakers yet to come. Plans call for the audio portion to be completed by 01/01/05 and completion in ~2 years with the replacement of the TV with an HDTV. (but I've got to do some more remodeling on the house to maintain the WAF so...)

Equipment in the media room:

DVD/CD RCA (my "good" one is a Panasonic rp91 it's at the shop)
processor Rotel rsp-1066
Carver C-9

Ambience Equipment
Behringer Ultra-Curve Pro
Behringer Virtualizer Pro x 2 (expect to add 2 more)

Video
Hitachi Ultravision

Beast In The Basement
A lot of stuff, amps are Rockford Fosgates.
Charger/Supply is a 75 amp IOTA IQ4
Marine deep cycle batteries from AutoZone

I'm slow, it took a year to do the media room. But I did everything except redo the ceiling myself and the rewiring, on which part I worked as electricians assistant. Wife helped with the design/cutting and gluing of wall carpet. I did all the woodwork starting with kiln dried rough sawn poplar from a local mill. Oh a little bit of plywood and some pine from Lowes selected with the help of my moisture meter.

So far I have built several woofers for the surrounds, which are boughten (on order BD30s); the effects channel sub described elsewhere; and the front surround cabinets, one of which is seen on the floor. Under Loudspeakers I'll post a CU cause I got me some questions bought it.

The subs have to sneak in against the wall tween the MLs and the TV.
 

Attachments

  • sysinprogress.jpg
    sysinprogress.jpg
    33.7 KB · Views: 11,054
eStatic, you didn't mention your speaker set-up. It looks like you've got a pair of MartinLogan ESL's in the background. What model are they? I've never heard and ESL before, so what do they sound like compared to traditional speakers? Your "basement beast" looks really interesting. Could you tell me a little more about it (how it's configured, what powers what, etc.)? Which R-F amps did you use, and what are they powering? How did you set up your x-over networks? I've never seen a setup like that where auto amps (especially so many) were used in a home setup. How does it sound? It seems like a good way to save space when bi- or tri-amping, assuming you have another space for the power system. Would a massive 12VDC Power supply with a few auto stiffening caps power it just fine, or do you need a battery/charger setup like you have?