System Pictures & Description

Nice! Have you been able to compare them to the original lx minis or any other speakers?
I ran the Omni subs with SEAS L26RO4Y 10" for a couple of months while I refurbished the proper dipole H-Frame boxes (see photos). Bass was powerful and tight. I didn't bother with any EQ for the trial, just driven straight off the 120Hz LP output into 60W/channel LM3886 chip amps. I did notice the omnis excited lower room modes that were not present with the dipole bass, but these could be reduced with proper EQ and perhaps room treatment.

I can't give a real comparison with original LXminis because I've never heard them. My own LXmini versions are all with 8" bass drive units instead of SL's 5", and also I wasn't happy with only the SEAS FU10RB by itself, so I always crossed them with an additional tweeter at either 5.8kHz or 7kHz. My LXminis do fall short compared to the awesome transparency and dynamics of the open baffle LX521.4 version, even though they are still mighty fine in their own right.

I did tidy up the wiring of the 3 top LX521.4 drivers, which I now suspend from the ceiling above the H-Frame boxes for improved isolation. ps the A500 amplifier is just for its heatsink case, actually inside are 4xLM4780 2 channel chip amps which each parellel drive its own 4ohm bass unit. Enclosure below them is their 1000VA 24-0-24V trafo.
 

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Construction - SONY 8" subwoofer speaker
Hello everyone, my name is Tiago Sierra, I'm from Brazil.
In this video I show how I built a box for an 8-inch Sony subwoofer with FS of 33Hz.
I used 18mm thick MDF, 3-inch diameter duct.
On the internal walls of the speaker, I placed 2cm thick blanket + 3cm thick eggshell foam.
I didn't use screws to join the wood, only wood glue and wooden dowels with glue.

 
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Closed box. Woofers are Dayton Audio Epique 5.5in. Design and build thread here:

Thread '3-way to active - Hypex FA253 - learning project'
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/3-way-to-active-hypex-fa253-learning-project.421061/
The speakers Dayton E150 HE 44 are design for bass-reflex, Fs : 40 Hz, Qts : 0.39, EBP : 89 Hz https://masori.de/fr/products/epique-e150he-44
Miscalculation, nevertheless
the speakers box is very beautiful !
Why did you become active?
Surely for THIELE & SMALL parameter unsuitable...
 
General view - as you can see, my dedicated Auditorium is small and... Crammed 😏, but shows no notable acoustic flaws, fortunately ! 😎

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Electronics - from L to R, and top to bottom :

  • Micro-Amp stereo SE (DIY)
  • Audio Research SP3A1
  • SRPP Anzaï phono/line preamp (DIY)
  • Marantz 2270
  • Technics SL-1200G
  • McIntosh MC7100
  • McIntosh C712
  • Audio research D76 (back fan cooled)
  • Accuphase E-560 with AD-50 and DAC-50 extension cards
  • Yamaha CD-S300
  • Marantz CD60

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  • U-OTL6080 amps (DIY)
  • Yamaha CD-S300
  • NAD 114
  • Marantz CD-80
  • Kraftwerk Unit power conditioner (DIY)

o1l4Sb-P1200167.jpg


  • Chino DABradio/USB/DAC
  • Marantz 2250B
  • Yamaha CD-S300
  • U-KT120 SE amps (DIY)
  • U-300B SE amps (DIY)

Avl4Sb-P1200149.jpg


Speakers - several variations, depending on the mood :

  • Magnepan SMGb (with DIY crossover)
  • 375L Monitors BR 3 ways (DIY)
  • Omega Ripole 2x12" active sub (DIY)
  • T17FL2 Wide Band (DIY)
  • Klipsch Heresy I (DIY modified)
  • The Cube BR Jensen 2 ways (DIY)

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- 222L Monitors BR 2 ways (DIY) on stands (DIY)

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- 475L Monitors Sealed Isobaric 4 ways (DIY - in test)

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In fact, these are several systems more or less intertwined... 😉

T
 
Mancave in overdrive.... I wonder about your electricity bill, definively not serving the "green" agenda 😉

Well, I'd say that it stays reasonable : below, ALL instruments powered ON, including lamps - the conditioner reads 230VAC / 3.95A, that is to say circa 910W. That case is rather improbable in practice, because the items are barely all powered at the same time... 😉

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And when ALL is powered OFF, you read 0.00A, meaning that there's not more than 2-3W of standbying units that can remain.

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T
 
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I have an Advance Paris A12 integrated amp, TEAC VRDS-20 CDP, Wiim Pro Plus streamer, B&W 703 S3 speakers, recently rebuilt Quad ESL-63 speakers, and an SVS 3000 Micro sub. My LG 77" C2 OLED TV is driven by an Nvidia Shield TV Pro, is also hooked into the system, and I use a Sofa Baton to control things. Finally, there's a PC connected to the audio system and the TV to generate visuals that sync with the music playing on the system.

The listening chair for the Quads- I'd rather have the Quads at this end of the room so I can see the view while I'm listening to them. The room is 16' wide, and it's 28' to the island in the kitchen. The ceiling is 11 ft high with big HVAC duct, big wood rafters, huge wood beams and posts, and plenty of sprinkler pipes, track lights, and electrical conduit. It's a real mess up there!

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I just got the rack in the photo, and there's a new chair coming next week, so I'm still figuring out where to put everything. I'll hide the cables better once things are finalized. The rack is definitely oversized for my small collection of gear. I may look for or build something smaller. My favorite analog playback device, on top of the rack, is an Edison Model B cylinder record player.

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The computer runs MilkDrop 3.26 to generate visuals synced to music

I just finished rebuilding the Quads a few weeks ago, and made the stands for them. They sound fantastic!

PXL_20250510_013551272.jpg
 
I built small full range speakers into 3D printed case. TB W4-1320SIF.
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Painted and lacquered:
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Print layers are left untouched on purpose:
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Diffusor in the cabinet:
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Working with prints is a lot more difficult than wood. Each detail must be in the model. And plastic is soft and doesn't take heat or solvent based paint very well.
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Printed in three pieces: faceplate, reflex slot and hull. Glued together.
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The material is PLA and printed 10 mm think with 1 mm wall thickness and 10% infill. This is my first and probably last printed speaker.

-- Oops I forgot these are full range and this is multi-way forum, sorry.
 
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Correct, just printed with regular infill pattern. This was intentional decision because these were my first printjob and using filling material would have been a lot more work, so this time just that. If I seriously tried to make printed cabinets that compete with MDF, it would take serious effort also in model design.