System Pictures & Description

I just looked at all the data again. Those might sound really good with just those and a couple subwoofers. I could not find any data on the compression driver but it certainly looks stout.

The data does not say much about the crossover but the frequency graph looks smooth which indicates there is some sort of crossover there.

I was also surprised at how expensive they are.
 
We have taken a couple of those and reengineered them to get some big gains in performance. One was new cabs + a midrange, the other, my favorite replaced the bottom end with a pr of Fostex bass drivers in a push-push enclosure.

dave

I know that this is a very late response, but I did a Rebuild of ESS AMT 1Bs to 1Es, and then again replacing their woofers with BBC LS 5/8 mid/woofers, curvilinear and smooth.

I put in an attenuator switch of +/- 5dB as well as a very expensive French pot of +/- 5db to give the Heil a range of 10dB in 0.3dB steps.

I also raised the lower plinth part 4" to 7" in total, raising the Heil to ear height and increasing the internal volume to about 105lt.

It is a shame that the Heil has had very little work done on it in 40+ years.
 
... The data does not say much about the crossover but the frequency graph looks smooth which indicates there is some sort of crossover there... I was also surprised at how expensive they are.

They say it's crossed at 1.5kHz; some day I will check the passive crossover and post the details.

As I said, I've got a very good deal for a new pair but more am I thinking about the nominal price (2500 euro/pair) it's still decent if you compare it with Atlas Sound which is more expensive and bigger than needed All Weather High-Output Stadium Horns Available In Multiple Sizes and Coverage Patterns | AtlasIED

Anyway, I cannot imagine any reasonable DIY attempt to cast or else such huge rigid structure. IMO, the main reason for the big improvement I can hear compared to previous horns is down to rigidity and mass.
 
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Still Figuring out which one to run

I've finished a pair of Revelator based satellites, passively filtered at 90 hertz, with some inexpensive MKP Audiophiler caps, Solen Split to the AMT tweeters at 5000 hertz, with a Solen Hyperlitz inductor, and some KZK film and tinfoil caps. All cabinets are sealed.
The satellite on the left is based on the Bohlender Graebener Neo 10. Here, they are isobarically installed, facing the same way, so the magnets don't repel each other. It's paired with a 4 ohm Scanspeak fabric dome tweeter, for better off axis listening than my Neo 3PDR.
It's Solen Split at 200 Hz, and 5000 hertz, with some Dayton 5% caps on the Planar mids, and some Mundorf EVO Aluminum Oil caps.
Going to listen awhile, before deciding if I'll make another planar.
So far, it sounds better than the Revelators, but at more than double the price in drivers, I think it shouldn't be close.
Others have been so happy with their Neo 10s, even a few customers who've bought my designs with them. I just feel like I've never gotten the best out of them.
These do sound excellent, and I shouldn't grouch about them sounding better than my Revelators.
Isobarically does make a more forceful presentation; I always found them a little lacking in excitement, or dynamic snap, in Helmholtz tuned enclosures, open baffle, or in skeletal " cabinets", with solid tops and bottoms, and thick felt cloth sides.
Anyways, I'll leave in for a while, then decide on their future. I've been using an old Polk 10" sub, but tonight I'll pair them up with one of my RSS265HF-4 subs, magnet out in a 1 foot sealed cabinet, densely packed with wool, powered with an older Dayton 1000 watt plate amp.
Any one here tried the planars in sealed cabinets before?
 

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A cheap 2-way with Tesla ARN 5614 and Wacecor TW022WA05, drivers coming secondhand and from ebay. Crossover at 2.250 Hz and yes, the felt triangle is improving the sound ;-).
 

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Many many years ago I read an article in AudioExpress (2004/05?) about the construction of a 2-way speaker. The author had spent quite som energy (and certainly money) fo come up with a final design.
This project haunted me for half a decade, until I decided I had the energy, financially means and a workshop to build myself a pair of this design.

That's is basically the background of my speaker. The articles gave (almost) all information but tracking more specific info on the cabinet was tricky, but I managed to get info on the factory-made-boxes, and doing some calculations came up with something of the same internal volume as the original.
I am using 22mm MDF for the box and 25mm massive palisander or teak for the baffle.

Drivers are HiVi M8a and Vifa T29 ring radiator. X-over is a 24dB elliptic filter for the tweeter and a 12dB for the woofer.

Though these were finished almost 10 years ago, I have very seldom used them and they were laying around waiting for some final cables to the L-pads I installed over a year ago. But the last two days I have had them hooked up to my most powerful amp - a 3W SE tubeamp and have had to turn the volume up a lot.

However I am VERY pleased. They are half as big as my Sonido 6"x9" fullrange speakers, but, so far, they are as impressive. They manage to play the lowest and the highest notes perfect, leaving nothing else to be asked for.

Here's some pictures. Also on the pics, the 5" Sonido FR horn, 6"x9" Sonido FR vented boxes, and a close up with the Quackti disturtion-muffler :D.
Trying to get a MX50 together to get som more power and just bought a Linx Nebula from UK.
 

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