What did I say about the SB Acoustics 4" woofer getting 1mH and 10uF? Seems I was right...
Not too impressive IMO. That 6kHz woofer resonance should be addressed.
fakeout you are new and interested, I can tell. Frankly if you want a great speaker that goes loud without effort, 3-way is the way to go.
3-Way Classic
But for a newbie, a nice small 9L reflex 2-way is a good start.
SEAS CURV
This is not a million miles away from the splendid Spendor A9 in drivers. Ought to be very good, though I would again address the Cone Breakup region around 5kHz with an added 0.82uF +33 ohms tank across the 1.2mH bass coil.
Cabinets are discussed here, one of my better posts IMO, but don't worry about details too much. A box is largely a box.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/223174-interesting-read-i-found-lossy-cabinet-designs-harbeth.html#post3234256
Not too impressive IMO. That 6kHz woofer resonance should be addressed.
fakeout you are new and interested, I can tell. Frankly if you want a great speaker that goes loud without effort, 3-way is the way to go.
3-Way Classic
But for a newbie, a nice small 9L reflex 2-way is a good start.
SEAS CURV
This is not a million miles away from the splendid Spendor A9 in drivers. Ought to be very good, though I would again address the Cone Breakup region around 5kHz with an added 0.82uF +33 ohms tank across the 1.2mH bass coil.
Cabinets are discussed here, one of my better posts IMO, but don't worry about details too much. A box is largely a box.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/223174-interesting-read-i-found-lossy-cabinet-designs-harbeth.html#post3234256
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Well, I mean some Seas, Scan-Speak and SB Acoustics woofers or mid-woofers are around $50 to $75 for the lower priced models so I was thinking along those lines. I still have at least a couple of months to decide but now I'm kind of contemplating buyout speakers. I think I'm going to take a break from the questions for now (to ponder and reflect lol).
Do yourself a big favor. Mandolin Speaker Kit / Pr
Crossovers already built. Great drivers, great designer, great price.
Build the cabinets or buy pre-built 15 liter cabs.
Crossovers already built. Great drivers, great designer, great price.
Build the cabinets or buy pre-built 15 liter cabs.
no, no number/quality relation. In this case just a difference of 1 1/2 inch.
The smaller driver is used in the StartAirKit 3R, together with a vifa tweeter. Fabulous sound (esp. for the price) But also regardless of the price.
I would personally favor a Gravesen design. Especially the 5 inch minis. you can always upgrade, using the same cabinet. But the SAKs are half the price and are probably only slightly less well-sounding, definitely not half as good.
OK, I find the information in the last couple of posts interesting but what do you think of this: Speakerbuilder Pro 2.0=
What is the SC4 option there anyway under the bass reflex menu?
What is the SC4 option there anyway under the bass reflex menu?
I am not sure what it is. Software for simulating speaker design? I have no experience with such things. Not sure what to think, but established developers are not fond of modeling xo's per internet software by just entering driver parameters and so. stick to a design if u have no experience, no measuring gear and want quick succes.
Troels also has a peerless/vifa mini, so to say a step up of my SAKs. He is very fond of peerless midbass drivers and vifa tweeters, which i can understand. Very nice quality of midrepresentation, and excellent finishquality. (even the cheap drivers)
Troels also has a peerless/vifa mini, so to say a step up of my SAKs. He is very fond of peerless midbass drivers and vifa tweeters, which i can understand. Very nice quality of midrepresentation, and excellent finishquality. (even the cheap drivers)
lol, I finally found what I think I might like. A kit and a design for 4.7 liter cabinets with brand name drivers. The Sopranos by Jeff Bagby.
Sopranos (Pair)
Of course, by the time I get money in May to buy them they may be sold out. Haha, whatever I guess. I wish it came with a birch plywood flat pack though with the driver cut outs already done. A couple of comments I like about these speakers is they can be used in different placements and Jeff Bagby said they sound realistic.
Sopranos (Pair)
Of course, by the time I get money in May to buy them they may be sold out. Haha, whatever I guess. I wish it came with a birch plywood flat pack though with the driver cut outs already done. A couple of comments I like about these speakers is they can be used in different placements and Jeff Bagby said they sound realistic.
That's a happy choice. Jeff Bagby is one of my favourite designers.
The Sopranos are TINY so don't expect huge bass, but they will doubtless deliver good midrange if you use them in a small room. SB Acoustics make great drivers affordable. Vented bass has always done the business for me.
The issue with two-ways is they don't go loud comfortably. Various reasons for that and 3-ways or series MTM's (it's a simple conversion) are better. But you will have a good time with these. Go for it.
SC4 is referring to bass reflex tuning at the bottom end. Not a big deal.
The Sopranos are TINY so don't expect huge bass, but they will doubtless deliver good midrange if you use them in a small room. SB Acoustics make great drivers affordable. Vented bass has always done the business for me.
The issue with two-ways is they don't go loud comfortably. Various reasons for that and 3-ways or series MTM's (it's a simple conversion) are better. But you will have a good time with these. Go for it.
SC4 is referring to bass reflex tuning at the bottom end. Not a big deal.
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System7, thanks for answering my question about SC4.
Regarding size and power, I would prefer to put speakers on my desk so I don't want something too large. And there are two reasons I don't want something "too powerful". First, I live in an appartement. Second, even though people insist full range speakers (single speaker each side for those who don't know) can sound cleaner, a 2-way from what I read can handle more "demanding" music like rock music. Even though a 2-way may not be able to handle punk music the same way as a 3-way, there are more crossovers and people say they demand more power. Something subjective that I may be incorrect about (may be that the speakers I listened to were cheap), I find more powerful speakers have enough bass to have a negative impact on voice quality. (From comparisons I made in stores.)
Besides, I did read a comment on the Ariel by Lynn Olsen that some 3-ways will intentionally use inferior midrange and tweeters because the size of their woofers won't permit them to catch up to the smaller mid-range drivers and tweeters. This is a wee bit disturbing for $3K to $5K speakers. lol Anyway, I'm not the expert on this so my interpretation may not be correct. But, yeah, I think the Sopranos by Jeff Bagby is the more "rational" choice for me from my point of view. (At least for now unless I find something I prefer.)
Regarding size and power, I would prefer to put speakers on my desk so I don't want something too large. And there are two reasons I don't want something "too powerful". First, I live in an appartement. Second, even though people insist full range speakers (single speaker each side for those who don't know) can sound cleaner, a 2-way from what I read can handle more "demanding" music like rock music. Even though a 2-way may not be able to handle punk music the same way as a 3-way, there are more crossovers and people say they demand more power. Something subjective that I may be incorrect about (may be that the speakers I listened to were cheap), I find more powerful speakers have enough bass to have a negative impact on voice quality. (From comparisons I made in stores.)
Besides, I did read a comment on the Ariel by Lynn Olsen that some 3-ways will intentionally use inferior midrange and tweeters because the size of their woofers won't permit them to catch up to the smaller mid-range drivers and tweeters. This is a wee bit disturbing for $3K to $5K speakers. lol Anyway, I'm not the expert on this so my interpretation may not be correct. But, yeah, I think the Sopranos by Jeff Bagby is the more "rational" choice for me from my point of view. (At least for now unless I find something I prefer.)
fakeout, if you are reading Lynn Olson, you are cooking with GAS!
Here's a quote from Lynn that pretty much explains how speaker design works:
Question: See if you can see where Lynn's notch or tank goes with these two SEAS speakers...not hard, is it?
Here's a quote from Lynn that pretty much explains how speaker design works:
Question: See if you can see where Lynn's notch or tank goes with these two SEAS speakers...not hard, is it?
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Hi,
Using good speakers on a desktop is generally bad, for nearfield
they are not balanced correctly, and for farfield unless perched
on the front corners you'll get a lot of additional problems.
For nearfield use and those PE cabinets the low BSC version
of Zaph|Audio - 4" Bargain Mini would work very well.
Still basically needs a sub though for deep bass.
For deep bass with no sub your much better off with a small footprint
floorstander, e.g : https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/diy/amiga
rgds, sreten.
Using good speakers on a desktop is generally bad, for nearfield
they are not balanced correctly, and for farfield unless perched
on the front corners you'll get a lot of additional problems.
For nearfield use and those PE cabinets the low BSC version
of Zaph|Audio - 4" Bargain Mini would work very well.
Still basically needs a sub though for deep bass.
For deep bass with no sub your much better off with a small footprint
floorstander, e.g : https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/diy/amiga
rgds, sreten.
Good as Paul Carmody and Zaph might be, fakeout has considered this issue of small room and desk placement already. NOT A PROBLEM.
The answer to the much more interesting question of notching the SEAS bass cone-breakup is 5kHz of course. This happens to be particularly easy to calculate. 10uF and 0.1mH and 1.5R on a notch, or 1mH bass coil and 1uF and 33R across it with a tank. Or any other combination that preserves the product. What is nice about this correction is it lines phase up nicely too.
Jeff Bagby "The Sopranos" said:
The answer to the much more interesting question of notching the SEAS bass cone-breakup is 5kHz of course. This happens to be particularly easy to calculate. 10uF and 0.1mH and 1.5R on a notch, or 1mH bass coil and 1uF and 33R across it with a tank. Or any other combination that preserves the product. What is nice about this correction is it lines phase up nicely too.
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