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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Colorado, USA
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I heard these little speakers at RMAF last fall and fell in love with them: http://www.sound-smith.com/products/...Fi+_review.pdf
Does anybody recognize the drivers? All I know about the crossovers is that they are "phase correct" whatever that means. The fuse lamp behind the grille that tells you you are about to blow up the tweeter is pretty ingenious. I'm sure before it blows the resistance goes way up, so the loss of highs before it actually blows is another clue you're about to fry your expensive tweets. Any info would be appreciated. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: troll in US
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I do not like that lamp/fuse on the front
it looks you can hit and break it anytime no cover on it is just asking for trouble btw bose did these lamps 30 years ago! nothing new...nothing ingenious |
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#3 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Looks like a Davis mid-bass. I'm with adason on the external fuse, besides his objections they will be a diffraction object.
And why didn't they use screws with proper heads??? dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Tennessee
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If you like that design, you might consider also my Jordan with a ribbon mini-monitor or mass loaded transmissioin line (MLTL). The mini-monitor's thread on DIYAudio started back in 2005 at:
Crossing Over Jordan and later the MLTL thread is at: Jordan with a Ribbon MLTL Many of the mini-monitor links are dead but if you are interested, please contact me. The Jordan with a ribbon mini-monitor and MLTL designs use the same crossover and the Jordan JX92S (Jordan's US Distributor for EAD Full Range Drivers) and Aurum Cantus G2si (Parts Express: the #1 source for audio, video & speaker building components) drivers which are still available for a total cost of $600. Both designs have been duplicated by numerous others. Jim |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Victoria, B.C.
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Colorado, USA
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I thought the same thing about the screwey screws. The ones ast the show had that worked out. Which Bose model used fuse lamps in series with the tweeter? Any guesses on the tweeter?
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#7 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Almost every unpowered Bose speaker used fuses in series with the tweeter.. It's been a long time, but I expect most of the current ones still do.
__________________
"Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence." - Carl Sagan |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Colorado, USA
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Quote:
These lamps were used in vintage tuners and receivers receivers for dial lights, but I don't believe they've ever been used in exactly this manner before in a speaker. I do know that many vintage speakers used incandescent bulb in the internal crossover for the increasing resistance protection scheme, but did offer the visual feedback or the fuse style protection. But that's not what I care about, these speakers SOUND absolutely wonderful, better than all but a few megabuck speakers at the show. Last edited by audiomagnate; 27th February 2013 at 02:34 AM. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: troll in US
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"These lamps were used in vintage tuners and receivers receivers for dial lights, but I don't believe they've ever been used in exactly this manner before in a speaker."
I personaly took few of them out of old Bose speakers...you are not listening what people tell you, it has been used extensively in 70ties and 80ties McIntosh used these often too...this is from Roger Russell's page: Red and yellow indicator lights were mounted in the front of the bass cabinet at the bottom right. The yellow light was connected directly to the system input. It became visible when the input to the system approached rated power. It served only as a warning indicator. If the system was driven excessively hard, the main fuse would blow. If the system continued to be driven after the fuse blew, the yellow light would still be seen but no sound would be heard. The red light was connected directly across the tweeter fuse. It could only be seen if the high frequency fuse blew and the system continued to be driven at high power. Protection circuits were included for the lights. |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Colorado, USA
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Quote:
Davis 13mp5g 5" Graphite Midbass 297-562 Too bad it's NLA from PE. |
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