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MultiWay Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers 

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26th February 2013, 01:24 AM  #1 
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2012

Please check out my final circuit X/O with piezo
Ok, after reading a lot, everything is almost set.
After reading that piezo needs different treatment, I went on how to crossover my midbass with a piezo, I decided to follow some suggestions from the POINTED OUT ARTICLE. When I first went for my crossover values in HERE, I was told to go with the following circuit: And I was also told (before I realized I had a piezo) that I needed to attenuate my tweeter by 22dB because it seems like the woofer would be 96dB SPL while the tweeter 108dB. So someone told me to calculte an LPad in HERE and what I got was: To complicate more, the tweeter box says:  Always use a 4.7uF/100V polyester capacitor. Resistor usage table: Resistor / Sensitivity (2,83 to 1m) / Power Range on 4 Ohms No Resistor / 108dB / 40W RMS 15 Ohms / 105dB / 60W RMS 18 Ohms / 100dB / 75W RMS 22 Ohms / 97dB / 100W RMS The label in tweeter box suggests the mentioned capacitor in series with a resistor. The big question is... alright, I've made an effort... is there any failing thought in the first circuit? My goal is to level the piezo with the midbass and crossover at 6000Hz/12dB. Last edited by krafty; 26th February 2013 at 02:00 AM. 
26th February 2013, 03:56 AM  #2 
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Western Sydney

96108 = 12
It's going to be approximate anyway, the best way is to set up the crossover outside the box the first time you wire it up so it's easy to change parts, & use a variable resistor for R2 (in the first diagram) to tweak for the level that you like....
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Impedance varies with frequency, use impedance plots of your drivers and make crossover calculations using the actual impedance of the driver at the crossover frequency 
26th February 2013, 10:33 AM  #3 
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Join Date: Jul 2012

Well, turns out that the midbass is actually 86dB SPL, and not 96. So it's really 22dB.
I am confused about R1 (first diag). It DOESN`T DO attenuation, does it? 
27th February 2013, 02:07 AM  #4 
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Western Sydney

thinking about it , it makes more sense to make R1 variable, take the tap to C2 from the wiper, & it will do attenuation (replace with fixed resistors after you've found the best setting)
The purpose of R1 is to make the Piezo look like a conventional tweeter to the crossover (C1). A Piezo is electrically a capacitor, hence the need for the different treatment
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Impedance varies with frequency, use impedance plots of your drivers and make crossover calculations using the actual impedance of the driver at the crossover frequency 
27th February 2013, 03:23 PM  #5  
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Join Date: Jul 2012

Quote:


27th February 2013, 11:39 PM  #6 
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Western Sydney

re:"did you mean using something like a potentiometer?"  yes. The wiper is the variable part of the pot, connect C2 to that.
Potentiometers (Beginners' Guide to Pots)
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Impedance varies with frequency, use impedance plots of your drivers and make crossover calculations using the actual impedance of the driver at the crossover frequency 
28th February 2013, 01:57 AM  #7 
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Join Date: Jul 2012


28th February 2013, 02:49 AM  #8 
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Western Sydney

Yes, use the original R1 value, 22 ohms.
You can leave the pot, but over time they oxidise & become scratchy & unreliable, better to replace with fixed resistors after you've got the balance you like Re: listening  it's your ears you have to satisfy....
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Impedance varies with frequency, use impedance plots of your drivers and make crossover calculations using the actual impedance of the driver at the crossover frequency 
20th February 2014, 11:05 PM  #9 
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Join Date: Feb 2014

Krafty, did you build it, did it work?
I'm building something similar and would be interested in your results. 
30th March 2014, 08:40 PM  #10 
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Join Date: Jul 2012

Hi nickparsons101,
Yes, I finished today ONE module. Well, I did not use the potentiometer. I used the circuit with fixed resistors in their respective values. The treble was completely suffocated. I shortwired the C1 and P1 junction directly to the tweeter positive (+) and it gave the best result. (Kind of not too bright, but acceptable). I may replace C2 and R2 with a 4,7uF capacitor just for protection in there. I wonder why the necessity of R2 in the end of this story... Looks like R1 is the real deal on this story. So my preference is in between 15 Ohms and 30 Ohms for R1. I still want to give a shot on these values to see if the sound is better. L1 is working nicely, the sound is very different on another box that is bare. I must confess I am almost throwing my towel: building and testing this it's very time consuming. It took me months to find some motivation to keep going on and on. I have considered acquiring this set... Genius Last edited by krafty; 30th March 2014 at 08:43 PM. 
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