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Kooshball 25th February 2013 12:39 PM

Material for speaker grille frames?
 
I plan on making grilles for my speaker project and would like some advice on what frame material is ideally suited to the task. I am going to embed magnets into the baffle, behind the veneer so that they can be blind-mounted and plan to stretch speaker cloth over the frame to complete the project...other than that there are no special criteria.

I assume that plywood would work, but is it typically too heavy?

THX

pkitt 25th February 2013 02:04 PM

1 Attachment(s)
I like to use 3/8" (9 mm) Baltic Birch Plywood for grille frames which is available in several different sizes at Woodcraft. It's very rigid, and it's lightweight once you cut out most of it to clear the drivers. I also use magnets but instead of imbedding them into the baffle, I countersink them into the back of the grille frame with them aligned to some of the bolt/screw heads that mount the drivers to the baffle. I've attached a photo of the pair of grilles from my last project. It was a 2-way with an 8" woofer and I used four of the woofer's mounting screws for the magnets to grab.
Paul


Quote:

Originally Posted by Kooshball (Post 3385279)
I plan on making grilles for my speaker project and would like some advice on what frame material is ideally suited to the task. I am going to embed magnets into the baffle, behind the veneer so that they can be blind-mounted and plan to stretch speaker cloth over the frame to complete the project...other than that there are no special criteria.

I assume that plywood would work, but is it typically too heavy?

THX


lanchile 25th February 2013 02:08 PM

Floating Anti-Diffraction Grilles | Technology & Engineering | Polk Audio

Jim Griffin 25th February 2013 03:13 PM

For rectangular grills I use extruded aluminum frame material (for screen doors) from home supply stores like Lowes or Home Despot. This framing is 0.75" wide x 5/16" thick) and includes a groove on the rear side for rolling in a 0.125" diameter spline. On the baffle I too embed 0.375" diameter flat high energy magnets flush mounted under veneer or laminate. The frames are assembled with plastic corner pieces (buy these in the same section as the frame material). I glue 0.500" diameter flat magnetics into the corners of the plastic corners (careful to observe polarity so that these magnets attract to those in the baffle and use flat washers as spacers to raise the magnets to be flush with the frame). Cut grill cloth 2 to 3 inches larger than the finished frame in all directions. Place the cloth flat on a table and center the grill frame (rear side facing upward) on it. Now use a spline roller tool to press the spline and cloth into the groove on the rear side of the frame. Use your third hand to gently stretch the cloth and a flat bladed screw driver to work the spline/cloth around the corners. Once you have the cloth rolled into the groove, you can trim excess cloth and you are good to go.

The result is a lightweight frame which is attracted to the magnets in the baffle. With this technique alignment of the magnet holes between the baffle and frame is critical as the magnets are self aligning when they come together. I've made grills as large as 12" x 72" for line arrays with this technique.

You can also flush mount flat magnets into the baffle of speakers that are already assembled and use the framing material as well. Lee Valley has high friction vinyl disks that cover the magnets after you have glued them into the surface of the baffle.

soundchaser001 25th February 2013 03:56 PM

I have used finger jointed pine 1/4 round moulding with triangular gussets in the corners. Cheap and light.

cT equals piD 26th February 2013 12:33 AM

The last pair of grills that I made have sides of 1/2" X 3/4" softwood molding made into a frame by gluing and nailing to 2" X 2" X 3/4" pine corner blocks from dimension lumber. Be careful that the corner blocks are exactly square. Before building the frame, make a 1/16" deep groove halfway down each side piece of molding where the 1/2" dimension is front/ back.

After assembling the frame, stretch and staple the grill cloth in the grooves on all sides. Removing a few staples at a time holding the grill cloth in place, permanently attach the grill cloth to the frame with hot glue. After the grill cloth is permanently attached, trim off excess cloth with an X-acto knife along the bottom edge of the grooves.

Finally, make right angle sections of 1 mm X 3/4" wide strips of styrene and attach the sections to the lower exposed wood of the sides of the frame with super-glue. The styrene strips hide where the cloth is glued to the wooden frame with hot glue (ugly if left exposed) and also give the frame a plastic-look. I assume that you like a plastic-look.

That maybe isn't too clear, but it would take a high word-count and probably several photos to make it really comprehensible.

-Hey, I'm not getting paid to communicate this stuff.

Regards,
Pete


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