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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

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Old 16th February 2013, 05:57 AM   #61
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Only as a generalisation There are so many variable
I tend to use the Weems advice ( beginners book and well worth finding a second hand copy )
Great sound stereo speaker manual - David B. Weems, G. R. Koonce - Google Books

I also try and make my midrange work as wide as possible and this is why I like 4 and 5 inch midrange drivers
Also

Designing, Building, and Testing Your Own Speaker System with Projects: David Weems: 9780070694293: Amazon.com: Books

Speaker Building 201: A Comprehensive Course in Speaker Design: Ray Alden: 9781882580453: Amazon.com: Books

Introduction to Loudspeaker Design: John L. Murphy: 9780966377323: Amazon.com: Books
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Old 17th February 2013, 08:25 AM   #62
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Thanks Moondog.
Those books look like good reading.
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Old 21st February 2013, 08:44 PM   #63
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I have read that if 2nd order crossovers are used on mid driver, the phase will be changed 180 degrees and polarity of leads will need to be reversed.
What happens if I make 2nd order crossovers for all crossovers, ie woofer, mid and tweeter?

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Old 21st February 2013, 08:53 PM   #64
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Stevenn,
The simple answer to your last question is that you only invert the midrange crossover and leave the other two with the normal polarity. But you will hear lots of things about how that works in reality with each particular speaker and crossover point.
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Old 2nd March 2013, 04:00 AM   #65
Stevenn is offline Stevenn  Australia
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Afternoon all.
Wrestling with JBagby's crossover designer and having some fun understanding it , reckon I am about 80% there...
Two qsns on Bagby v7:
1. If a target transfer function of a particular order is selected, presumably the selected filter order has to be the same?
2. After entering target pass frequencies, Bagby then calls for 'the selected electrical frequency' to be entered in circuit and component section. What is this?

Probably wrong thread to be asking these questions in.....

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Old 2nd March 2013, 04:10 AM   #66
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Target transfer function and electric order are not the same thing
I keep re-reading the help files myself. I usually plug in the values of the components I have on hand and see what happens, the results are sometimes quite surprising.
Which mid have you decided on??
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Old 2nd March 2013, 05:36 AM   #67
Stevenn is offline Stevenn  Australia
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If they are not the same, what are the differences?
Also which help files are these? Only found instructions in spreadsheet itself and example PDF which are not very suited to beginner....
Using Peerless 830992.
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Old 2nd March 2013, 05:53 AM   #68
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OK Now please take this with a grain of common sense as I am a beginner.
A lot depends on where you place the filter, if the driver has 2 octaves of flat response on either side of the frequency where you put the filter the response shape may be the same as the electrical shape ( 1/2/3 or 4 dB per octave ) but if you put for example a second order electrical filter where a drivers response is starting to roll off the resultant acoustic response sums and the actual acoustic slope may be 3rd or 4th order.

You want both the drivers to be about 6dB down at the XO frequency and the little Peerless will probably be happy to cross at 250/300 Hz with a second order filter in front of it, where-as if you put a second order filter at 200 Hz the acoustic response may then become 4th order as the interaction of the electrical filter and the natural roll-of combine. But keep in mind that asymmetric XOs are normal and common, what is important is the acoustic summation to a relatively flat response.
I would be using the little Peerless mid 300 to 3000Hz myself, second order electrical at both ends and manipulating the XO on the woofer and tweeter to match, although at 3k a first order may work there is the peak at around 8k that would probably be evident
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Old 2nd March 2013, 08:09 AM   #69
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OH and if I have got any of post #68 wrong I hope some-one more knowledgeable than I will jump in and give the correct information
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Old 2nd March 2013, 08:27 AM   #70
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Sounds ok to me moondog, though I myself only have one speaker design under my belt I think the important thing to grasp as you have said is that it is the combination of the electrical filter and the driver that makes the final acoustic slope, and it is this final acoustic slope that matters.

So the target is the acoustic target, you vary your electrical until you get that (or close to it).

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