WIN ISD Pro and multiway design - Page 18 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Loudspeakers > Multi-Way

Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 29th July 2013, 02:14 AM   #171
Stevenn is offline Stevenn  Australia
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Sydney
Hi everyone

I am pleased to say that this weekend I finally finished my speaker project and I am very pleased with the results.
The bass is less pronounced than previously and the mid has really filled out, producing great definition and a very clean, crisp sound.
Top end distinct, but not overwhelming.

Basically since last post of 12 May I have been spending what little spare time I have had on reconstructing the cabinets and very challenging this has proved to be.
I think ultimately reconstruction was not a good idea and it is better to start from scratch, but anyway, here is a brief over view for those interested.

Not possessing woodworking tools such as routers and wary of my ability to cut perfect holes in new baffle with a jigsaw, I opted for a sandwich of 12mm and 6mm MDF with an added veneer of Tasmanian Oak. This was on basis MDF was easier to work with and veneer would be easiest to make perfect circles in and hide any irregularities in cut-outs for drivers.
This unfortunately probably doubled the amount of work.
Locating veneer suppliers was not easy, and finding suppliers who did not have minimum charges even harder. Eventually Amerind at Ingleburn were able to help, supplying me a ‘flitch’ for $50.
However cutting and working with veneer proved to be very difficult, the wood splitting and tearing very easily and being very difficult to glue perfectly to MDF. I experimented with a number of techniques using different PVA glues, presses and finally a warm iron. Even when veneer looked good, a few hours later wrinkles would appear. A good move was to use a hot iron on veneer before gluing to reduce moisture content, this reduced a lot of the wrinkles and bubbles.
For the first cabinet I produced, I removed the original baffle and glued new baffle in its place, leaving square edges which again required some tricky veneer work. The new results were not very good so I decided to put some Tas oak half round quad edges on new baffles which looked much better and would eliminate any bad acoustic effects from square edges.
Doing this meant I probably could have used a pre glued timber veneer board in the first place… (but would still have had driver cut-out issues).

Once the first cabinet was finished and speaker assembled, the second one plus second cross-over was done in a matter of weeks.
I used lessons learnt in doing first cross-over to improve second, especially with regard to coil placement. The veneer is still not perfect and will requires some regluing in places.

Mid driver was placed in a separate 150mm PVC pipe compartment which seems to work well, hole for driver wire entry was plugged with sealant.

I am still amazed that sounds come from my clumsy soldering attempts at cross-overs and that the speakers work. Our kitchen resembled a bomb making scene from films at times, much to my wife’s disapproval. But she hated the old speakers with their dark brown artificial wood vinyl and is even more impressed with the way speakers now sound.

So after 30 years of service, my old speakers have a new lease of life and I finally have a pair of quality speakers which to my ears sound fantastic. No more will I go into Hi Fi shops and look longingly at the $3000+ speakers…
I am now happily playing my favourite CDs (very loudly!) much to my family’s annoyance.
Amerind have some very nice veneers so may contemplate a new project in another 10 years….

It has been a steep learning curve but ultimately very rewarding. I am very grateful for the assistance and advice provided by members on this site, especially Tony.

So if any other ‘newbies’ are contemplating such a project, I would say, ‘Go for it!’

Cheers
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Cab 1.jpg (556.0 KB, 30 views)
File Type: jpg Cab 2.jpg (559.5 KB, 28 views)
File Type: jpg Cross over mk II.jpg (717.3 KB, 28 views)
File Type: jpg Cross over mk II (2).jpg (781.6 KB, 28 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 29th July 2013, 03:05 AM   #172
just another
diyAudio Moderator
 
wintermute's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Sydney
Blog Entries: 22
Excellent! I'm very pleased to see you re-did the baffle! I think that will have made a big difference for off axis listening! They look very nice!!

Very glad to hear that you are happy with the sound, and that they have turned out well balanced, It's a great feeling listening to your creation isn't it!

Tony.
__________________
Any intelligence I may appear to have is purely artificial!
Some of my photos
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Unconventional Speaker Design - thread carried over from multiway forum morgoe Full Range 59 30th October 2012 11:17 AM
Ideas and approaches to dialing in an active multiway design ?? flatfinger Multi-Way 4 17th October 2011 12:28 PM
Win XP Pro keeps alerting usb device Bengali Everything Else 5 16th April 2010 09:20 PM
Active multiway speaker design? leadbelly Multi-Way 12 23rd May 2007 11:52 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 01:01 PM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright ©1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2