|30th January 2013, 10:07 AM||#11|
Join Date: Dec 2009
And reality never seems to quite match the models. I use WinISL. Still, I prototype. Measure the response, measure the impedance curve and Q. Then you will learn tricks.
If building a speaker to not use a sub, then a dB or too hump before roll-off helps with the illusion of deeper base and balances the top. If you are using subs, sometimes you use the hump and shift the sub crossover down. If you use a full electronic 2-way sub crossover, then you may go to a smaller sealed cabinet. Most OEM speakers are aligned in a smaller than "perfect" cabinet. Monkey coffins just don't have the WAF. C4 is a popular alignment. Just a tad of ripple, but lower cutoff.
The one most overriding design constraint of speaker design: It depends.
Oh yea, no reason to tune an 8 inch to 22 Hz. It can't push that much air without coming apart or high distortion. You should expect an honest 40 to 45 Hz. That covers everything but a tiny portion of some music or movie effects. Only a pair of 12 inch subs should be expected to do that. 6 inchers are good in the 55 to 60 range. etc. Just because the model draws a line on a graph, does not mean it is a good idea.
|30th January 2013, 10:47 AM||#12|
Join Date: Aug 2003
Blog Entries: 22
when modeling if possible also look at the transient (or step) response. The lowest 3db point will usually also have the worst transient response....
everything is a tradeoff. maximizing bass extension is always at the expense of something else
Any intelligence I may appear to have is purely artificial!
Some of my photos
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