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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

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Old 25th January 2013, 05:07 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcmeat51 View Post
TBH this is what I was planning on. My plan is to use a Vifa tweeter (exact model not to hand) and a Tang band W5-704D 5-1/4 $31, then have a Tang Band W6-1139SIF 6-1/2" Paper Cone Subwoofer $48 as the 'sub woofer' for each speaker crossed over down low (200 hz or so).
That's not low enough. No need to get into technical talk really - just listen to 200Hz. That's not a subwoofer, and shouldn't be pointed at the floor. You can do what you want with most any 2-way kit, of which there are zillions, but you need to use a subwoofer plate amp for the subwoofer part.
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Old 25th January 2013, 05:31 PM   #12
sreten is offline sreten  United Kingdom
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Hi,

Madisound and PE are not very cost effective from the UK.

I can't really visualise the planned tubular 3-way, as ever
3-way are do-able, but very difficult to get right and very
easy to get wrong, so take much more design effort.

If the point is to make something interesting the bass driver
at the top of the tube and a vent near the bottom will give
some form of MLTL - could work well with TB 6" subs.

Though given that, in a proper design the senstivity would
low, and I'd expect a 3" or 4" mid/ FR to be more suitable
than the W5, all of them not needing an expensive tweeter.

rgds, sreten.
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Old 25th January 2013, 07:08 PM   #13
Juhazi is offline Juhazi  Finland
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mcmeat51,
If you live in Europe, please check only prices from European suppliers. Cargo from USA to Europe is huge, then add taxes and VAT! Europeaudio.com is in Netherlands and lautsprechershop.de - I guess there are some suppliers in UK too.

I second sreten, if you really want to use a sewer tube as cabinet - 1 or two 3-4" full rangers can give a supprisingly good result. Put lots of wadding in the tubes. I've made speakers of TangBand 4" FR and CSS 125FR. The efficiency is not amazing but decent. You will spare the xo expenses and I'm sure that you'll find that the bass quality is amazing! However I can recommend these only for nearfield use.

I know there are cheap ready-made xo-kits and drivers of reasonable prize (to fit 300£/pair), but I don't think they are worth the effort!
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Last edited by Juhazi; 25th January 2013 at 07:20 PM.
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Old 25th January 2013, 07:12 PM   #14
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Tbh I was looking at buying from Amazon or PE and getting it shipped over... or even shipped to my Bro's house in California and getting him to ship across.

I live in the UK... any good sits I should know off?
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Old 25th January 2013, 07:50 PM   #15
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A quick SLDWRKS model of what I intend to do.

Body would be thick ridgid 8" soil pipe. Baffle would be MDF or similar. Then all veneered with a nice wood veneer.

I have yet to model the drivers but you can see there rough positioning, as well as the port at the bottom.

Can anyone recommend a 6 or 6-1/2" woofer for the low's. Something that would match an internal volume of roughly 10 litres and have a decent low bass extension?


I know there are kits out there, but part of the reason I am building these is for interest... especially when it comes to designing a crossover.

Thanks

Matt
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Old 25th January 2013, 09:05 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcmeat51 View Post
I know there are kits out there, but part of the reason I am building these is for interest... especially when it comes to designing a crossover.
If you want to design a crossover, then buy gear to take response and impedance measurements properly first. You can get a calibrated mic new and a USB interface/pre used for under 200 USD (€150 or so, is it?). Then all you need is some cables and a mic stand, and either some resistors to make an impedance jig or you can buy one of those "woofer tester" gadgets. Well, and a stand-alone power amp would be good.

Oh yeah, there's also that UMIK-1 that the miniDSP guys came out with recently. I don't know if it's known how well it works yet, but one of those takes care of mic and preamp/ADC/DAC interface in one shot for cheap.

I guess I'm kind of assuming you haven't already done this. If you're already set up, that thing you just posted could probably work fine, but you'll thank yourself for trying 2-way first.

Last edited by dumptruck; 25th January 2013 at 09:08 PM.
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Old 25th January 2013, 09:13 PM   #17
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Your probably right.

I dont have those to hand at the moment... however I do have access to some pretty neat stuff at work. (shame, last place I worked built broadband seismometers and the HP we used to calibrate them would have been perfect for measuring the drivers frequency response etc. )
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Old 25th January 2013, 10:54 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by dumptruck View Post
Oh yeah, there's also that UMIK-1 that the miniDSP guys came out with recently. I don't know if it's known how well it works yet, but one of those takes care of mic and preamp/ADC/DAC interface in one shot for cheap.
Oops, got carried away there: not the DAC part, so you still have to use your computer's sound output if you don't have one already. That's not ideal, but you can probably make it work.
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Old 25th January 2013, 11:01 PM   #19
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Im now leaning toward a 2 way using this

Peerless 830946 6-1/2" Paper Cone Woofer Speaker 4 Ohm 264-1148

with a decent full range driver.. yet to be decided.
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Old 26th January 2013, 12:01 AM   #20
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Are you reading frequency response ranges off spec sheets? Be careful with that. The only way you get 20Hz with that driver is with a passive radiator and extreme extended bass shelf tuning, which potentially works with a subwoofer amp (to rather low maximum output levels in the 95dB range), but if you're using it for a regular woofer, you've brought your bass sensitivity down into the 78dB range, and then it's rising to the mid 80s in the midbass - doesn't really work out unless you use two amps and an active crossover, and that's a pretty expensive setup for such limited output..
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