Hi guys, been racking my brain over this for some time now, hopefully someone can help me out. I own a fairly large active speaker, used to belong to an electric organ i think, had the back panel off and as far as i can see electronics, drivers and everything all in good condition. After a little research on the drivers i found they are top of the range although are quite old and can only find out a little info on them, one 15'' bass driver and two (i think) mid-range 12" drivers. So i do a little (amateur) DJing and am hoping to use it in my bedroom sound rig. I spin all sorts of EDM, so would i be right in assuming i'd be needing something to cover the trebles if theres nothing in the cabinet able to re-produce the high ranges already?? If so i'd quite like to add them to the existing cabinet (its huge and theres plenty of room inside), What would be the easiest way to amplify said tweeters? To add some sort of plate amp solely for them? Pretty handy with DIY in general and quite capable with a soldering iron so at first glance it looks as if i could easily splice the power input and divert power to the tweeter amp aswell. Whats really baffling me is how to get the sound input to this new amp/tweeters Preferably without having to interfere too much with the existing amplifier (looks extremely complex and not something i should be fiddling around with too much), obviously ill need some sort of crossover too. Incase you hadnt already noticed im a bit of a speaker diy noob 
so any help and advice anybody could give me would be greatly appreciated
so any help and advice anybody could give me would be greatly appreciated 
That's too vague Elroy...
No one can help you in a crazy project like that. You will be spending your MONEY and you would be spending your TIME (and ours) unless you know the full T/S specs/parameters for those drivers all you're doing is Vintage Audio destruction and radical scavenging (as opposed to restoration and learning). Isn't it better just to buy a kit?
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No one can help you in a crazy project like that. You will be spending your MONEY and you would be spending your TIME (and ours) unless you know the full T/S specs/parameters for those drivers all you're doing is Vintage Audio destruction and radical scavenging (as opposed to restoration and learning). Isn't it better just to buy a kit?
Lautsprecher Bausätze - Lautsprechershop von blue planet acoustic
Loudspeaker designs
IPL ACOUSTICS HIGH QUALITY SPEAKER KITS
Enceintes audio en kit DIY
Wilmslow Audio
Falcon Acoustics | The Leading DIY Speaker Parts and Kit Supplier since 1972
DIY Loudspeakers
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I do actually have the T/S parameters for all the drivers direct from the manufacturers. Didnt feel it neccesary to post them here though as the plan is to leave them in the original enclosure, all im trying to do is add a pair of tweeters to the setup (obviously not as straight forward as i originally thought). These speakers, after being stripped of their beautiful oak veneer, manufacturers labels and grille cloth, leaving nothing but an unsightly bare chipboard enclosure, were actually bound for a skip, i came along just at the right time and saved them from this, so contrary to ''Vintage audio destruction and radical scavenging'' i like to think of it more as giving them a new lease of life perhaps? But hey you guys are the experts here not me, so thanks for your feedback its been helpful but id still be interested to hear if anyone else has any opinions
Hi,
Just drive two tweeters from the terminals of the two 12"ers.
Normal tweeters will need a crossover and might need L-pads for level.
Piezo's will work without a crossover, but there are simple networks
than can improve performance over a straight connection.
What driver are the two 12"ers ?
rgds, sreten.
Just drive two tweeters from the terminals of the two 12"ers.
Normal tweeters will need a crossover and might need L-pads for level.
Piezo's will work without a crossover, but there are simple networks
than can improve performance over a straight connection.
What driver are the two 12"ers ?
rgds, sreten.
Hi. Really, its as simple as that? Great! They're actually 10''ers dont know why i said 12". They're Fane Acoustics "The crescendo" Parameters here http://www.fane-acoustics.com/downloads/CRES10M.pdf . And the bottom end is a "Richard allen HD15" parameters are in an attachment. Thanks for helping out, much appreciated!
Attachments
Hmmm......
Like some things effecting an improvement is quite easy, but effecting
the best improvement not easy, and open to debate and conjecture
as to what the approach might be based on the information available.
Really need to know the baffle layout, and if the the two mids are for
stereo (with mono bass), or its just mono, to sensibly advise further.
For sure it seems like the top end would be missing.
rgds, sreten.
Like some things effecting an improvement is quite easy, but effecting
the best improvement not easy, and open to debate and conjecture
as to what the approach might be based on the information available.
Really need to know the baffle layout, and if the the two mids are for
stereo (with mono bass), or its just mono, to sensibly advise further.
For sure it seems like the top end would be missing.
rgds, sreten.
That's half way home. You should have mentioned it in the first place.
Noting that the ECONOWAVE comes to mind. Also this tweeter Selenium ST200 but unlike the piezo it needs crossover. The Fanes are nice drivers though.
Great find!
It's a shame you're so far away. Those speakers could do with being measured really.
If you're serious, I think you're best chance would be to buy a copy of this: Loudspeaker cookbook and for now you could read the sticky at the top of the page: Designing crossovers
It's a shame you're so far away. Those speakers could do with being measured really.
If you're serious, I think you're best chance would be to buy a copy of this: Loudspeaker cookbook and for now you could read the sticky at the top of the page: Designing crossovers
Sorry for the late reply guys, hectic few days. Right ok, as ive already said im quite in-experienced in much to do with diy sound, however im a very fast learner and i follow instruction brilliantly! So by baffle do you mean the enclosure to which the drivers are mounted? What kind of imformation would be helpful, general dimensions of the box etc? And as for the mids being stereo/mono, What would be the easiest approach of working this out? Sorry for all the stupid questions, and thank you all for your help and feedback its much appreciated! fatmarley, thanks ill defiantely have a read of that
Those 10" speakers are mid range units. I used to design and build equipment for 1 man bands and used 10" Zomax speakers as midrange units coupled with 15" Zomax speakers and Sammi bullet tweaters using a three-way secord order filters from my hi-fi speaker designs. They were awesome and rattled the foundations.
As balerit said 2 (good PA) mid range drivers can work out after you decide on your design and after you answer what sreten asked you?!
Stereo or mono? Read his question. Also what size/type/application of speaker you r looking for.
They are good for a 3-Way stereo or for a 2-Way in a stereo + sub mode.
Stereo or mono? Read his question. Also what size/type/application of speaker you r looking for.
They are good for a 3-Way stereo or for a 2-Way in a stereo + sub mode.
Hi,
The 5 pin DIN input could be mono or stereo.
You say the speakers are active, one thing certain is its powered.
If the crossover is active, there will be more than one power amplifier.
Two for a mono speaker, and 3 for mono bass, stereo midrange.
For stereo two tweeters are needed, for mono one might be better.
The baffle driver layout would be useful to advise the tweeter placement.
rgds, sreten.
The 5 pin DIN input could be mono or stereo.
You say the speakers are active, one thing certain is its powered.
If the crossover is active, there will be more than one power amplifier.
Two for a mono speaker, and 3 for mono bass, stereo midrange.
For stereo two tweeters are needed, for mono one might be better.
The baffle driver layout would be useful to advise the tweeter placement.
rgds, sreten.
Hi, Sorry once again for the late reply. So after waiting almost 10 days for my DIN to phono converter lead, it transpires that the input is infact an XLR 5 pin, so would i be right in assuming that answers the stereo or mono question? Seeing as from what ive read the XLR5 is used for a ''balanced stereo signal''? Ive composed a rough sketch of the speaker cabinet, im afraid its not quite perfectly to scale, sketchup 8 isnt quite as easy to use as i thought, the dimensions are H:920mm W:550mm D460mm. As for the crossovers, everything is contained on a single circuit board and theres a lot of stuff on there, most of it looks completely alien to me, Perhaps if i try and post a few pictures here would that possibly be any help?? Thanks again
Elroy
Attachments
Hi,
You appear to have :
Stereo bridged "XLR" input, in a very non standard DIN socket.
(Edit : no that is not right, one screened lead is missing. Its quite
possible all the active crossover stuff precedes the DIN input)
4 chips amps, 2 probably for mids, 2 probably bridged for bass.
But if that true the baffle layout doesn't make a lot of sense.
(Edit : Common sense investigation on your part is needed.)
rdgs, sreten.
You appear to have :
Stereo bridged "XLR" input, in a very non standard DIN socket.
(Edit : no that is not right, one screened lead is missing. Its quite
possible all the active crossover stuff precedes the DIN input)
4 chips amps, 2 probably for mids, 2 probably bridged for bass.
But if that true the baffle layout doesn't make a lot of sense.
(Edit : Common sense investigation on your part is needed.)
rdgs, sreten.
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