Hi everyone
I lent out a par of speakers and one of the bass drivers came back blown..
After reading a lot of how to's on reconing and watching some on youtube, Seamed fairly easy.
I bought a recone kit for the Eminence Deltalite II 2512,
but the recone kit came completely disassembled i.e voicecoil, cone and spider are not glued together and i cannot find any "how to's" with assembling those.
Do any of you know where i can find a guide to do this?
And what kind of glue do you recommend for the spider, coil and cone? since the kit didn't come with any glue at all.
PS. The website i bougt it from said that it was a "complete kit" and menssioned nothing about the missing glue or that the parts were separete.
All in all not very happy with this purchases so far. But i'm hoping you guys(and gals) can help me in this time of need(Pretty please)
I lent out a par of speakers and one of the bass drivers came back blown..
After reading a lot of how to's on reconing and watching some on youtube, Seamed fairly easy.
I bought a recone kit for the Eminence Deltalite II 2512,
but the recone kit came completely disassembled i.e voicecoil, cone and spider are not glued together and i cannot find any "how to's" with assembling those.
Do any of you know where i can find a guide to do this?
And what kind of glue do you recommend for the spider, coil and cone? since the kit didn't come with any glue at all.
PS. The website i bougt it from said that it was a "complete kit" and menssioned nothing about the missing glue or that the parts were separete.
All in all not very happy with this purchases so far. But i'm hoping you guys(and gals) can help me in this time of need(Pretty please)
The disassembled kits can be tough. I hope it came with shims. The most challenging part is ensuring the voice coil is properly aligned in the direction of travel. Most mfg will specify the height above the spider or cone that the top of the vc former should sit at. I like to measure the vc height and the gap height and work it out on my own. Depending on the driver if you are going to be a fraction of a milimeter off(and you will be) its better to be off in the outward direction so you don't crash against the back plate at high excursion. Not sure where to get glue in Denmark but this page may help Speaker Repair Adhesives, Glues, Epoxy, Cone Edge Sealers.
Some of the best adhesive I've used was called super black. I remember it having a foreign language on it. I think it is made in the Mid East or Thailand.
Lastly make sure the lead wires have plenty of length to allow for excursion but route them so they don't hit the cone it sounds bad.
Most reconers will tell you to find some one with experience to do it, but that does seem a bit self serving. Just come to terms with the fact that if you do it yourself you may have to do it over again soon. But then you'll know how =).
Best of luck,
-Matt
Some of the best adhesive I've used was called super black. I remember it having a foreign language on it. I think it is made in the Mid East or Thailand.
Lastly make sure the lead wires have plenty of length to allow for excursion but route them so they don't hit the cone it sounds bad.
Most reconers will tell you to find some one with experience to do it, but that does seem a bit self serving. Just come to terms with the fact that if you do it yourself you may have to do it over again soon. But then you'll know how =).
Best of luck,
-Matt
Looks like you got pro kit. Didn't those how tos give you enough info?
Yeah looks like it. Nope, i have no clue about how to align the voicecoil and spider.
it came with a shim, a curcular piece of plactik.
I didn't come with any info an i can't find any on eminence own website. but i'll probably be able to measure it the distance.
Do you have any tips on alligning the spider and voicecoil?
I'll give you full instructions, but now I'm busy, ask again in 3 or 4 hours.
Thanks.
EDIT: meanwhile search and link here the Eminence .PDF datasheet for your speaker, it will save us some time.
If not, get a good ruler which can measure to its edge.
Like metal shop rulers, not like school rulers which start a couple mm from the edge.
And worst case, cut a school ruler, so "0" is just on the edge.
And in millimeters, forget Medieval Inches based on some long dead King's thumb width.
Thanks.
EDIT: meanwhile search and link here the Eminence .PDF datasheet for your speaker, it will save us some time.
If not, get a good ruler which can measure to its edge.
Like metal shop rulers, not like school rulers which start a couple mm from the edge.
And worst case, cut a school ruler, so "0" is just on the edge.
And in millimeters, forget Medieval Inches based on some long dead King's thumb width.
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I may not be, but being a student i really don't have money to screw this up and i just wanted to avoid any pitfalls there might be to this process that i could have overlooked..
Thanks alot
http://www.eminence.com/pdf/DeltaliteII_2512.pdf
That is all i could find. no info on the kit itself.
I have calipers and proper workshop rulers available
I understand your concern - not having done this before. I browsed youtube for a bit trying to find a video showing how to center the VC but all I find are videos where the voice coil is already attached to the cone and spider. LOL.
I generally use .010 inch plastic shim stock. Cut a shim that fits most the way around the VC circumference. Place the VC on the shim and slide it down until the windings are centered on the thickness of the top place closest to the woofer frame. Take a measurement of the top plate (the thick steel plate on one side of the magnet and closest to the frame) thickness and width of the VC windings and subtract to two. Divide by 2 and that's the distance from the top of the voice coil windings to the top of the top pole plate. You can add the distance of the top of the VC winding to the top of the VC former plus the number you calculated and that's the 'set height'. The height from the top of the voice coil former to the top of the pole plate. Once that's set, slide the spider down over the VC until it sits on the frame. Slide the cone down over the VC former and glue it down. I use super-glue.
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I found a video showing a speaker reconing out of spare parts (not a prebuilt cone assembly)
[How It's Made] Building a Speaker - YouTube
1) On 3.15 they put the VC+the shim, it must be a reasonable friction fit so it stays where you put it, but can be pulled later.
Set the VC height so the top of the winding sits 4.9mm over the top plate.
If length is not the original 16.8mm , no big problem, just substract 7mm from its actual height, divide the rest by 2 and use that value. What speakerdoctor said in a more general way.
We are "rehearsing" first, no adhesives, to check everything is fine, so now:
2) put the spider there, to check its hole is the proper size (you might have to trim it with baby nails scissors or similar), etc.
3) same with cone.
If it has a cloth or foam edge already attached, fine; if not (ugh !), glue it first and leave it aside to dry.
You may use *good* vinyl glue or a "toothpaste tube" of rubber contact cement.
4) you must decide how to attach flexible wires both to speaker terminals and to VC wires.
With a nail or something punch through 2 proper holes in the cone paper.
5) once you are happy with fit. pull cone and spider.,
Glue spider all around where it will meet the speaker frame.
Best is some kind of good contact (rubber) cement.
Solvent type is the least ecologic but the strongest bond.
To glue suspension to VC you have 2 options.
a) there is a suitable Cyanoacrilate available, but it's not your regular Super Glue but a specialized one, usually black in colour, thick, loaded with microscopic rubber balls, to give it some flexibility.
Otherwise it cracks easily.
The other option is some kind of *industrial* epoxy, never "10 minutes" (unless you need a sloppy job) but the kind which takes a few hours to harden.
I use that, because that time frame lets me work slowly, and simply is "the real thing".
I warm the VC area with a heat gun, apply the thick Epoxy with a toothpick, and after I went all around give it an extra touch of heat, to *slightly* soften it and have it "wet" better the surfaces.
Have a look at : www.loctite.sg/sea/content_data/LT3273_Speaker_Assembly_Adhesives_Guide.pdf
The critical ones are the "VC to something else"; all soft parts (cone, suspension, edges, etc) can be glued with contact cements.
6) glue frame edge and put cone in its place.
Also run a bead of good hard (cyano or epoxy) adhesive between it and the VC.
I prefer good old Epoxy, but the Video shows some kind of "Speaker" cyano, you see that they apply a fine spray of accelerator, so it hardens stronger and faster.
The rest of the finishing worl is relatively easy, what I detailed is the hardest part.
After adhesives hardening (I suggest overmight) , pull the centering shim which now is not needed and apply edges, dust dome, etc.
Good luck.
[How It's Made] Building a Speaker - YouTube
1) On 3.15 they put the VC+the shim, it must be a reasonable friction fit so it stays where you put it, but can be pulled later.
Set the VC height so the top of the winding sits 4.9mm over the top plate.
If length is not the original 16.8mm , no big problem, just substract 7mm from its actual height, divide the rest by 2 and use that value. What speakerdoctor said in a more general way.
We are "rehearsing" first, no adhesives, to check everything is fine, so now:
2) put the spider there, to check its hole is the proper size (you might have to trim it with baby nails scissors or similar), etc.
3) same with cone.
If it has a cloth or foam edge already attached, fine; if not (ugh !), glue it first and leave it aside to dry.
You may use *good* vinyl glue or a "toothpaste tube" of rubber contact cement.
4) you must decide how to attach flexible wires both to speaker terminals and to VC wires.
With a nail or something punch through 2 proper holes in the cone paper.
5) once you are happy with fit. pull cone and spider.,
Glue spider all around where it will meet the speaker frame.
Best is some kind of good contact (rubber) cement.
Solvent type is the least ecologic but the strongest bond.
To glue suspension to VC you have 2 options.
a) there is a suitable Cyanoacrilate available, but it's not your regular Super Glue but a specialized one, usually black in colour, thick, loaded with microscopic rubber balls, to give it some flexibility.
Otherwise it cracks easily.
The other option is some kind of *industrial* epoxy, never "10 minutes" (unless you need a sloppy job) but the kind which takes a few hours to harden.
I use that, because that time frame lets me work slowly, and simply is "the real thing".
I warm the VC area with a heat gun, apply the thick Epoxy with a toothpick, and after I went all around give it an extra touch of heat, to *slightly* soften it and have it "wet" better the surfaces.
Have a look at : www.loctite.sg/sea/content_data/LT3273_Speaker_Assembly_Adhesives_Guide.pdf
The critical ones are the "VC to something else"; all soft parts (cone, suspension, edges, etc) can be glued with contact cements.
6) glue frame edge and put cone in its place.
Also run a bead of good hard (cyano or epoxy) adhesive between it and the VC.
I prefer good old Epoxy, but the Video shows some kind of "Speaker" cyano, you see that they apply a fine spray of accelerator, so it hardens stronger and faster.
The rest of the finishing worl is relatively easy, what I detailed is the hardest part.
After adhesives hardening (I suggest overmight) , pull the centering shim which now is not needed and apply edges, dust dome, etc.
Good luck.
One important step neither I or fahey mentioned is when you glue down the voice coil and spider for the final time, you MUST align the VC wire leads with the frame wire terminals. Then punch two small holes thru the cone about an inch or so up from the VC, each next to a VC wire. Insert your tinsel wires thru the holes and carefully solder them to the VC wires. Apply some cyo to the VC wires to glue the down to the cone so they don't vibrate when the speakers is playing. Run the tinsel wires to the frame terminals and solder them there.
FIRST of all, dry fit all parts to be shure the spider and cone fits the coil former and the basket. cones can easyli be massaged to fit the cone with the nail of your tumb and a pencil
I usually jam enough shims in there too keep the voicecoil fairly good in place and measures repeatly around the coil to enshure i have the correct amount of wire above the topplate (wound area - top plate tickness / 2)
and ofcourse in such a position that the wires point against the baskets terminals
when i am happy with the coils posistion i add a generous amount of contact glue on the baskets surface for the spider, and just drop (or sometimes massage the spider down the coil former and into the glue) making shure that i dont disturb the coils position.
IF your test fit told you that there was a distance betwin the cone and the spider, you migth have to glue the spider to the voicecoil now.
IF the test fit indicated that the cone meets the spider i wait until i have glued the cone suround to the frame, then i run a bead of Devcon 5 minute Epoxy betwin the cone and the coil(comes in a dual syringe with selvmixing tubes, wich makes application easy) rigth after the epoxy are applicated i then carefully lift the cone up and down (do not press the cone hard against the spider, since this can shift the spider down on the coil) a few times too let epoxy flow below the cone and down to the spider.
I usually use a black glue too seal up the pigtail/voicecoil solder joints if they are not hidden behind the dust cap, wich means i mostly do this after the epoxy have hardened.
IF the pigtails are too go trougth the cone UNDER the dustcap i do the soldering before i apply Epoxy too the cone/coil joint, this because then i use epoxy on the pigtail connections too.
Devcon contact glue and Devcon 5min selfmixing epoxy (packed with 2 mixer/application tubes, the glue hardens in the these in 5 min, so plan ahead) i usually order together with speakerparts from speakerx.com, but similar product are surely aviable elsewhere, i do recommend those selfmixing epoxy syringes warmly, makes it very easy to get a nice, even bead
I usually jam enough shims in there too keep the voicecoil fairly good in place and measures repeatly around the coil to enshure i have the correct amount of wire above the topplate (wound area - top plate tickness / 2)
and ofcourse in such a position that the wires point against the baskets terminals
when i am happy with the coils posistion i add a generous amount of contact glue on the baskets surface for the spider, and just drop (or sometimes massage the spider down the coil former and into the glue) making shure that i dont disturb the coils position.
IF your test fit told you that there was a distance betwin the cone and the spider, you migth have to glue the spider to the voicecoil now.
IF the test fit indicated that the cone meets the spider i wait until i have glued the cone suround to the frame, then i run a bead of Devcon 5 minute Epoxy betwin the cone and the coil(comes in a dual syringe with selvmixing tubes, wich makes application easy) rigth after the epoxy are applicated i then carefully lift the cone up and down (do not press the cone hard against the spider, since this can shift the spider down on the coil) a few times too let epoxy flow below the cone and down to the spider.
I usually use a black glue too seal up the pigtail/voicecoil solder joints if they are not hidden behind the dust cap, wich means i mostly do this after the epoxy have hardened.
IF the pigtails are too go trougth the cone UNDER the dustcap i do the soldering before i apply Epoxy too the cone/coil joint, this because then i use epoxy on the pigtail connections too.
Devcon contact glue and Devcon 5min selfmixing epoxy (packed with 2 mixer/application tubes, the glue hardens in the these in 5 min, so plan ahead) i usually order together with speakerparts from speakerx.com, but similar product are surely aviable elsewhere, i do recommend those selfmixing epoxy syringes warmly, makes it very easy to get a nice, even bead
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