Go Back   Home > Forums > >
Home Forums Rules Articles diyAudio Store Blogs Gallery Wiki Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

Reconing an Eminence Deltalite II 2512
Reconing an Eminence Deltalite II 2512
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11th January 2013, 03:45 AM   #11
JMFahey is offline JMFahey  Argentina
diyAudio Member
JMFahey's Avatar
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Buenos Aires - Argentina
I found a video showing a speaker reconing out of spare parts (not a prebuilt cone assembly)
[How It's Made] Building a Speaker - YouTube
1) On 3.15 they put the VC+the shim, it must be a reasonable friction fit so it stays where you put it, but can be pulled later.
Set the VC height so the top of the winding sits 4.9mm over the top plate.
If length is not the original 16.8mm , no big problem, just substract 7mm from its actual height, divide the rest by 2 and use that value. What speakerdoctor said in a more general way.

We are "rehearsing" first, no adhesives, to check everything is fine, so now:

2) put the spider there, to check its hole is the proper size (you might have to trim it with baby nails scissors or similar), etc.

3) same with cone.
If it has a cloth or foam edge already attached, fine; if not (ugh !), glue it first and leave it aside to dry.
You may use *good* vinyl glue or a "toothpaste tube" of rubber contact cement.

4) you must decide how to attach flexible wires both to speaker terminals and to VC wires.
With a nail or something punch through 2 proper holes in the cone paper.

5) once you are happy with fit. pull cone and spider.,
Glue spider all around where it will meet the speaker frame.
Best is some kind of good contact (rubber) cement.
Solvent type is the least ecologic but the strongest bond.
To glue suspension to VC you have 2 options.
a) there is a suitable Cyanoacrilate available, but it's not your regular Super Glue but a specialized one, usually black in colour, thick, loaded with microscopic rubber balls, to give it some flexibility.
Otherwise it cracks easily.
The other option is some kind of *industrial* epoxy, never "10 minutes" (unless you need a sloppy job) but the kind which takes a few hours to harden.
I use that, because that time frame lets me work slowly, and simply is "the real thing".
I warm the VC area with a heat gun, apply the thick Epoxy with a toothpick, and after I went all around give it an extra touch of heat, to *slightly* soften it and have it "wet" better the surfaces.
Have a look at : http://www.loctite.sg/sea/content_da...ives_Guide.pdf
The critical ones are the "VC to something else"; all soft parts (cone, suspension, edges, etc) can be glued with contact cements.
6) glue frame edge and put cone in its place.
Also run a bead of good hard (cyano or epoxy) adhesive between it and the VC.
I prefer good old Epoxy, but the Video shows some kind of "Speaker" cyano, you see that they apply a fine spray of accelerator, so it hardens stronger and faster.
The rest of the finishing worl is relatively easy, what I detailed is the hardest part.
After adhesives hardening (I suggest overmight) , pull the centering shim which now is not needed and apply edges, dust dome, etc.
Good luck.
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th January 2013, 11:34 AM   #12
speakerdoctor is offline speakerdoctor  United States
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: New England
One important step neither I or fahey mentioned is when you glue down the voice coil and spider for the final time, you MUST align the VC wire leads with the frame wire terminals. Then punch two small holes thru the cone about an inch or so up from the VC, each next to a VC wire. Insert your tinsel wires thru the holes and carefully solder them to the VC wires. Apply some cyo to the VC wires to glue the down to the cone so they don't vibrate when the speakers is playing. Run the tinsel wires to the frame terminals and solder them there.
"It's all about the music!"
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th January 2013, 02:04 PM   #13
CCU is offline CCU  Denmark
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Kgs. Lyngby
Send a message via MSN to CCU
You guys have been a tremendous help. I really appreciate it!

I'll go out and find the glues i need and start on monday.
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th January 2013, 05:19 PM   #14
FE3T is offline FE3T  Norway
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Close too Lillehammer
FIRST of all, dry fit all parts to be shure the spider and cone fits the coil former and the basket. cones can easyli be massaged to fit the cone with the nail of your tumb and a pencil

I usually jam enough shims in there too keep the voicecoil fairly good in place and measures repeatly around the coil to enshure i have the correct amount of wire above the topplate (wound area - top plate tickness / 2)
and ofcourse in such a position that the wires point against the baskets terminals

when i am happy with the coils posistion i add a generous amount of contact glue on the baskets surface for the spider, and just drop (or sometimes massage the spider down the coil former and into the glue) making shure that i dont disturb the coils position.

IF your test fit told you that there was a distance betwin the cone and the spider, you migth have to glue the spider to the voicecoil now.

IF the test fit indicated that the cone meets the spider i wait until i have glued the cone suround to the frame, then i run a bead of Devcon 5 minute Epoxy betwin the cone and the coil(comes in a dual syringe with selvmixing tubes, wich makes application easy) rigth after the epoxy are applicated i then carefully lift the cone up and down (do not press the cone hard against the spider, since this can shift the spider down on the coil) a few times too let epoxy flow below the cone and down to the spider.

I usually use a black glue too seal up the pigtail/voicecoil solder joints if they are not hidden behind the dust cap, wich means i mostly do this after the epoxy have hardened.

IF the pigtails are too go trougth the cone UNDER the dustcap i do the soldering before i apply Epoxy too the cone/coil joint, this because then i use epoxy on the pigtail connections too.

Devcon contact glue and Devcon 5min selfmixing epoxy (packed with 2 mixer/application tubes, the glue hardens in the these in 5 min, so plan ahead) i usually order together with speakerparts from speakerx.com, but similar product are surely aviable elsewhere, i do recommend those selfmixing epoxy syringes warmly, makes it very easy to get a nice, even bead
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Photo-0009.jpg (170.1 KB, 31 views)
File Type: jpg Photo-0010.jpg (184.0 KB, 31 views)
  Reply With Quote


Reconing an Eminence Deltalite II 2512Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
help with box size for deltalite II 2510 Charles Wasserf Multi-Way 26 3rd August 2012 02:28 AM
Econowave Deltalite II - MiniDSP- LT pguerin Multi-Way 3 13th April 2012 06:47 AM
FS 2) Eminence Deltalite II 2512 Ed LaFontaine Swap Meet 2 8th October 2011 03:17 PM
Eminence DeltaLite II 2510 for sale or trade aptquark Swap Meet 4 29th September 2011 07:00 AM
Eminence Deltalite 2515 Variac Multi-Way 2 7th September 2003 05:02 AM

New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 03:47 PM.

Search Engine Optimisation provided by DragonByte SEO (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2018 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Resources saved on this page: MySQL 15.00%
vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2018 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright ©1999-2018 diyAudio