|11th January 2013, 03:45 AM||#11|
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Buenos Aires - Argentina
I found a video showing a speaker reconing out of spare parts (not a prebuilt cone assembly)
[How It's Made] Building a Speaker - YouTube
1) On 3.15 they put the VC+the shim, it must be a reasonable friction fit so it stays where you put it, but can be pulled later.
Set the VC height so the top of the winding sits 4.9mm over the top plate.
If length is not the original 16.8mm , no big problem, just substract 7mm from its actual height, divide the rest by 2 and use that value. What speakerdoctor said in a more general way.
We are "rehearsing" first, no adhesives, to check everything is fine, so now:
2) put the spider there, to check its hole is the proper size (you might have to trim it with baby nails scissors or similar), etc.
3) same with cone.
If it has a cloth or foam edge already attached, fine; if not (ugh !), glue it first and leave it aside to dry.
You may use *good* vinyl glue or a "toothpaste tube" of rubber contact cement.
4) you must decide how to attach flexible wires both to speaker terminals and to VC wires.
With a nail or something punch through 2 proper holes in the cone paper.
5) once you are happy with fit. pull cone and spider.,
Glue spider all around where it will meet the speaker frame.
Best is some kind of good contact (rubber) cement.
Solvent type is the least ecologic but the strongest bond.
To glue suspension to VC you have 2 options.
a) there is a suitable Cyanoacrilate available, but it's not your regular Super Glue but a specialized one, usually black in colour, thick, loaded with microscopic rubber balls, to give it some flexibility.
Otherwise it cracks easily.
The other option is some kind of *industrial* epoxy, never "10 minutes" (unless you need a sloppy job) but the kind which takes a few hours to harden.
I use that, because that time frame lets me work slowly, and simply is "the real thing".
I warm the VC area with a heat gun, apply the thick Epoxy with a toothpick, and after I went all around give it an extra touch of heat, to *slightly* soften it and have it "wet" better the surfaces.
Have a look at : http://www.loctite.sg/sea/content_da...ives_Guide.pdf
The critical ones are the "VC to something else"; all soft parts (cone, suspension, edges, etc) can be glued with contact cements.
6) glue frame edge and put cone in its place.
Also run a bead of good hard (cyano or epoxy) adhesive between it and the VC.
I prefer good old Epoxy, but the Video shows some kind of "Speaker" cyano, you see that they apply a fine spray of accelerator, so it hardens stronger and faster.
The rest of the finishing worl is relatively easy, what I detailed is the hardest part.
After adhesives hardening (I suggest overmight) , pull the centering shim which now is not needed and apply edges, dust dome, etc.
|11th January 2013, 11:34 AM||#12|
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: New England
One important step neither I or fahey mentioned is when you glue down the voice coil and spider for the final time, you MUST align the VC wire leads with the frame wire terminals. Then punch two small holes thru the cone about an inch or so up from the VC, each next to a VC wire. Insert your tinsel wires thru the holes and carefully solder them to the VC wires. Apply some cyo to the VC wires to glue the down to the cone so they don't vibrate when the speakers is playing. Run the tinsel wires to the frame terminals and solder them there.
"It's all about the music!"
|11th January 2013, 02:04 PM||#13|
You guys have been a tremendous help. I really appreciate it!
I'll go out and find the glues i need and start on monday.
|11th January 2013, 05:19 PM||#14|
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Close too Lillehammer
FIRST of all, dry fit all parts to be shure the spider and cone fits the coil former and the basket. cones can easyli be massaged to fit the cone with the nail of your tumb and a pencil
I usually jam enough shims in there too keep the voicecoil fairly good in place and measures repeatly around the coil to enshure i have the correct amount of wire above the topplate (wound area - top plate tickness / 2)
and ofcourse in such a position that the wires point against the baskets terminals
when i am happy with the coils posistion i add a generous amount of contact glue on the baskets surface for the spider, and just drop (or sometimes massage the spider down the coil former and into the glue) making shure that i dont disturb the coils position.
IF your test fit told you that there was a distance betwin the cone and the spider, you migth have to glue the spider to the voicecoil now.
IF the test fit indicated that the cone meets the spider i wait until i have glued the cone suround to the frame, then i run a bead of Devcon 5 minute Epoxy betwin the cone and the coil(comes in a dual syringe with selvmixing tubes, wich makes application easy) rigth after the epoxy are applicated i then carefully lift the cone up and down (do not press the cone hard against the spider, since this can shift the spider down on the coil) a few times too let epoxy flow below the cone and down to the spider.
I usually use a black glue too seal up the pigtail/voicecoil solder joints if they are not hidden behind the dust cap, wich means i mostly do this after the epoxy have hardened.
IF the pigtails are too go trougth the cone UNDER the dustcap i do the soldering before i apply Epoxy too the cone/coil joint, this because then i use epoxy on the pigtail connections too.
Devcon contact glue and Devcon 5min selfmixing epoxy (packed with 2 mixer/application tubes, the glue hardens in the these in 5 min, so plan ahead) i usually order together with speakerparts from speakerx.com, but similar product are surely aviable elsewhere, i do recommend those selfmixing epoxy syringes warmly, makes it very easy to get a nice, even bead
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