Celestion Ditton 332 Crossover;

[starbender]

Hi everyone,

Last week I picked up busted 332's. I heard so many good reviews about these. Unfortunately one tweeter is not working and there is a burned resistor in crossover. I'm planning to make full maintenance including cabinets.

I'm searching for info since four days. Couldn't found any reliable information regarding crossover schematics. Is anyone have any schematic for 332's?

Also I want to try repairing hf2001 tweeter which is already down. So nothing to lose if I cannot find a way.

Another thing is I have a hard time to remove drivers.Looks like drivers doesn't glued, tight fitted, but i cannot remove them. I was able to remove two tweeters and one woofer. But I don't want to force the baffle. Any recommendation about this?

Any information will be appreciated.

Still desperately searching for xover schematic....

Regards.

[Inductor]

In another forum (AudioKarma.org) they say SEAS H0737 it's a good tweeter substitute, having in mind that's a smaller faceplate.
Substitute both resistors in both crossovers, look at the value on the new one.

[starbender]

Originally Posted by Inductor

In another forum (AudioKarma.org) they say SEAS H0737 it's a good tweeter substitute, having in mind that's a smaller faceplate.
Substitute both resistors in both crossovers, look at the value on the new one.

Thanks for your suggestion. I already contacted dealer for Seas h0737s. Waiting for reply. As for resistors, i cannot remove woofer on one cabinet to reach crossover. I don't know the resistor values. That's why i'm searching for xover schematic.

Another question; As I see this 332's uses paper capacitors. Do I have to replace these with pp caps. If so, it will cost a lot for me

[starbender]

Ok, got reply from dealer about Seas H0737 replacement;

"The Seas H0737 is the recommended replacement for the HF2000 and the HF2001. The sensitivity etc. is the same so there should be no problem with the crossover."

As far as I understand, I don't need to experiment with the crossover?

[starbender]

Here's damaged crossover with blown resistor. Btw, I have to find a way to remove drivers without damaging cabinet...

[Inductor]

Originally Posted by starbender

Another question; As I see this 332's uses paper capacitors. Do I have to replace these with pp caps. If so, it will cost a lot for me

Do it as a need basis, if out of spec, damaged, etc. The ones in series (in the signal path), and tweeter (quality caps) are most critical.

[prairieboy]

Originally Posted by starbender

Here's damaged crossover with blown resistor. Btw, I have to find a way to remove drivers without damaging cabinet...

That's more than a blown resistor .... looks like a smoked cap and coil, or two coils. With that sort of damage, I'd suspect that more than the tweeter may be damaged. You might want to check if the midrange and/or woofer voice coils are seized (press gently inward at the junction of cone and dust cap ... if it doesn't move, then the coils are fried too)

There is no subtle way of removing the woofer. If you can reach inside the cabinet with sufficient leverage, give the back of the woofer magnet a good smack. If you can't get inside, then use something like a snap ring pliers with a substantial hook at the end that you can slip into the mounting bolt hole and give it a strong pull. No doubt you may get a bit of separation of the particle board they probably used, but it won't be catastrophic.

[starbender]

Originally Posted by prairieboy

That's more than a blown resistor .... looks like a smoked cap and coil, or two coils. With that sort of damage, I'd suspect that more than the tweeter may be damaged. You might want to check if the midrange and/or woofer voice coils are seized (press gently inward at the junction of cone and dust cap ... if it doesn't move, then the coils are fried too)

There is no subtle way of removing the woofer. If you can reach inside the cabinet with sufficient leverage, give the back of the woofer magnet a good smack. If you can't get inside, then use something like a snap ring pliers with a substantial hook at the end that you can slip into the mounting bolt hole and give it a strong pull. No doubt you may get a bit of separation of the particle board they probably used, but it won't be catastrophic.

First I thought same as you. But other than smoked resistor all component readings more or less ok. I checked all drivers, all of them came back slowly as supposed to be. Without rubbing noise... Both speakers and all drivers are working without strange noise. Only one hf2001 defective which belong to damaged crossover..

Cabinet design is somewhat strange to me. Mid drivers have their own closed boxes inside the cabinet. There is no way in. I have to pull them straight without damage. To do this, I have to find something..

[starbender]

Update;

Succeeded to remove all drivers without any issue. Cabinets in sanding phase right now.
Unfortunately other crossover also in bad shape with replaced anonymous electrolytics.

Hopefully I found a pair of clean&working 332 crossovers.

In the meantime, does anyone have ditton 332 crossover schematics and wiring diagram?

sb.

[system7]

I think you can work out these values with a bit of help and detective work. A diiton 332 crossover pictured here:
New SEAS drivers in Ditton 332 Cabinets

That's 4 of the cap values I can see straight off. C4 is 12uF NP. Small C7 might be 1.5uF NP, not sure.

You'll need a good mutimeter with an inductance scale to measure your coils. Keep track of wiring polarity too. Here's a typical 3-way for comparison:
3-Way Classic

This whole thing might be best rebuilt on new PCBs:
http://www.wilmslow-audio.co.uk/crossover-pcb-452-p.asp

I think I could guess some values if you can draw up the schematic. Celestion did reuse a lot of circuits. Usually a 4th order bass and third order tweeter, but let's see. This is not an easy restore, but if you are methodical and make notes it can be done, I reckon.