Celestion Ditton 332 Crossover;

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Hi everyone,

Last week I picked up busted 332's. I heard so many good reviews about these. Unfortunately one tweeter is not working and there is a burned resistor in crossover. I'm planning to make full maintenance including cabinets.

I'm searching for info since four days. Couldn't found any reliable information regarding crossover schematics. Is anyone have any schematic for 332's?

Also I want to try repairing hf2001 tweeter which is already down. So nothing to lose if I cannot find a way.

Another thing is I have a hard time to remove drivers.Looks like drivers doesn't glued, tight fitted, but i cannot remove them. I was able to remove two tweeters and one woofer. But I don't want to force the baffle. Any recommendation about this?

Any information will be appreciated.

Still desperately searching for xover schematic....:(

Regards.
 
In another forum (AudioKarma.org) they say SEAS H0737 it's a good tweeter substitute, having in mind that's a smaller faceplate.
Substitute both resistors in both crossovers, look at the value on the new one.

Thanks for your suggestion. I already contacted dealer for Seas h0737s. Waiting for reply. As for resistors, i cannot remove woofer on one cabinet to reach crossover. I don't know the resistor values. That's why i'm searching for xover schematic.

Another question; As I see this 332's uses paper capacitors. Do I have to replace these with pp caps. If so, it will cost a lot for me :worried:
 
Ok, got reply from dealer about Seas H0737 replacement;

"The Seas H0737 is the recommended replacement for the HF2000 and the HF2001. The sensitivity etc. is the same so there should be no problem with the crossover."

As far as I understand, I don't need to experiment with the crossover?
 
Here's damaged crossover with blown resistor. Btw, I have to find a way to remove drivers without damaging cabinet...
 

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Here's damaged crossover with blown resistor. Btw, I have to find a way to remove drivers without damaging cabinet...

That's more than a blown resistor .... looks like a smoked cap and coil, or two coils. With that sort of damage, I'd suspect that more than the tweeter may be damaged. You might want to check if the midrange and/or woofer voice coils are seized (press gently inward at the junction of cone and dust cap ... if it doesn't move, then the coils are fried too)

There is no subtle way of removing the woofer. If you can reach inside the cabinet with sufficient leverage, give the back of the woofer magnet a good smack. If you can't get inside, then use something like a snap ring pliers with a substantial hook at the end that you can slip into the mounting bolt hole and give it a strong pull. No doubt you may get a bit of separation of the particle board they probably used, but it won't be catastrophic.
 
That's more than a blown resistor .... looks like a smoked cap and coil, or two coils. With that sort of damage, I'd suspect that more than the tweeter may be damaged. You might want to check if the midrange and/or woofer voice coils are seized (press gently inward at the junction of cone and dust cap ... if it doesn't move, then the coils are fried too)

There is no subtle way of removing the woofer. If you can reach inside the cabinet with sufficient leverage, give the back of the woofer magnet a good smack. If you can't get inside, then use something like a snap ring pliers with a substantial hook at the end that you can slip into the mounting bolt hole and give it a strong pull. No doubt you may get a bit of separation of the particle board they probably used, but it won't be catastrophic.

First I thought same as you. But other than smoked resistor all component readings more or less ok. I checked all drivers, all of them came back slowly as supposed to be. Without rubbing noise... Both speakers and all drivers are working without strange noise. Only one hf2001 defective which belong to damaged crossover..

Cabinet design is somewhat strange to me. Mid drivers have their own closed boxes inside the cabinet. There is no way in. I have to pull them straight without damage. To do this, I have to find something..
 
Update;

Succeeded to remove all drivers without any issue. Cabinets in sanding phase right now.
Unfortunately other crossover also in bad shape with replaced anonymous electrolytics.

Hopefully I found a pair of clean&working 332 crossovers.

In the meantime, does anyone have ditton 332 crossover schematics and wiring diagram?

sb.
 
I think you can work out these values with a bit of help and detective work. A diiton 332 crossover pictured here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/192202-new-seas-drivers-ditton-332-cabinets.html

That's 4 of the cap values I can see straight off. C4 is 12uF NP. Small C7 might be 1.5uF NP, not sure.

You'll need a good mutimeter with an inductance scale to measure your coils. Keep track of wiring polarity too. Here's a typical 3-way for comparison:
3-Way Classic

This whole thing might be best rebuilt on new PCBs:
http://www.wilmslow-audio.co.uk/crossover-pcb-452-p.asp

I think I could guess some values if you can draw up the schematic. Celestion did reuse a lot of circuits. Usually a 4th order bass and third order tweeter, but let's see. This is not an easy restore, but if you are methodical and make notes it can be done, I reckon.
 
I think you can work out these values with a bit of help and detective work. A diiton 332 crossover pictured here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/192202-new-seas-drivers-ditton-332-cabinets.html

That's 4 of the cap values I can see straight off. C4 is 12uF NP. Small C7 might be 1.5uF NP, not sure.

You'll need a good mutimeter with an inductance scale to measure your coils. Keep track of wiring polarity too. Here's a typical 3-way for comparison:
3-Way Classic

This whole thing might be best rebuilt on new PCBs:
Crossover PCB

I think I could guess some values if you can draw up the schematic. Celestion did reuse a lot of circuits. Usually a 4th order bass and third order tweeter, but let's see. This is not an easy restore, but if you are methodical and make notes it can be done, I reckon.


Thanks for your reply. I just received replacement crossovers for 332's yesterday. I don't have any difficulties about cap values. Problem is, i don't know which wire goes to which driver, or any out of phase connection involved or not. Check pics ;)

And total of 14 caps will be expensive. Especially with 60uf ones. Do you have any brand recommendation for caps? I used Clarity Caps ESA series in sw-156's with great results.

Note: If you check old crossover, someone replaced bipolar paper caps with electrolytic polar caps. Pity!
 

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Last week replacement crossovers recapped. Replacement HF2001 is on the way.
I checked all drivers, all seems fine, but I cannot find any polarity markings at all. No dots or - + marks. None of them have any markings. Is there any method celestion used as a guide for polarity?

I can check driver polarities with 1.5V battery, but so many people does not suggest this method. Any opinions?
 

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Ditton 332s - an unusual choice but strangely enough one I did myself a year or so ago . Replaced tweeters with SEAS , replaced caps and fully re-wired. Then rubbed down cases with wire wool and re-oiled - look like new now . Replaced the grille fabric with nice modern black. Also then built solid Oak stand at the specified height .
Unfortunately they were too big for the house (according to the missus) so now reside in the Garage ,so I have to listen to music through the TV surround sound :mad:
My Dad has 33s he's had from new and they sound great in his large'ish living room.
Attached a pic of them before case re-furb and new stands . Also have 2 dead HF2001s , 2 spare cases + 2 bass units .
Happy listening.
 

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Found replacement HF2001 tweeter and recapped crossovers. I'm about to finish this project but I need to find xover->driver wiring schematic. Problem is I don't know if mid or tweeter needs out of phase wiring. Because P.O. removed all cables between drivers and xover, there is no evidence for proper wiring.

Goalhanger, did you remember driver wiring for 332's, is there any driver needs out of phase wiring?
Also did you have 2 spare 332 bass drivers? I may need those ;)
 
Hi Starbender. I cant find my diagrams at the moment, but if I recall I just used the + side of the crossover to go to the + side of the speakers. I did check with the bass ones by listening and swapping over but all was correct.
I found the bass speakers last night but they are very slightly different on the magnet so I will whip the others out of the speakers so see if I put un-matched ones in for some reason . Numbers on the back are correct though. What is actually wrong with the bass units you have ? they are normally quite robust .
Quite heavy to post so where are you based ? I am in south east Essex.

Phil
 
Hi Starbender. I cant find my diagrams at the moment, but if I recall I just used the + side of the crossover to go to the + side of the speakers. I did check with the bass ones by listening and swapping over but all was correct.
I found the bass speakers last night but they are very slightly different on the magnet so I will whip the others out of the speakers so see if I put un-matched ones in for some reason . Numbers on the back are correct though. What is actually wrong with the bass units you have ? they are normally quite robust .
Quite heavy to post so where are you based ? I am in south east Essex.

Phil

Thank you Phil. I will wire all drivers in phase and check.
Bass drivers have different problems. One bass driver has badly sagged surround, other one has slight vc rubbing. Don't know what to do about these..

I'm in Istanbul! Lately I received xovers from England, My friend sent them with royalmail, they arrived just ok.
 
I do actually have friends/colleagues who travel to the Ford/Otasan plant in Kocaeli. So I will investigate possible carry over, although weight may still be an issue . I will check.
When I checked the phase of my speakers I did get addional listeners to make sure I wasnt missing anything !
By the way , did you find a replacement HF2001 or did you go the SEAS route ? I am happy enough with the SEAS although I may fix the HF2001 surround over the top to make it look neater .
Phil
 
I do actually have friends/colleagues who travel to the Ford/Otasan plant in Kocaeli. So I will investigate possible carry over, although weight may still be an issue . I will check.
When I checked the phase of my speakers I did get addional listeners to make sure I wasnt missing anything !
By the way , did you find a replacement HF2001 or did you go the SEAS route ? I am happy enough with the SEAS although I may fix the HF2001 surround over the top to make it look neater .
Phil

No, I think about replacing both with seas, but I found working HF2001 locally, checked resistance, it was around 7ohm. HF2001 is hard to come by, celestion didn't sold this to oem manufacturers, thus replacement must removed from xx2 series.

About bass drivers, I'll wait for your response, finally I can finish this project :)
 

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