My local Menards has some 1 1/8" thick particleboard shelving, termed "industrial," that I'm considering using for the front baffles for a two-way with recessed drivers and 5/8" roundovers (fyi, the rest of the 0.5 cu ft enclosure is 3/4" mdf). The surface is very smooth and the material seems much denser with finer "particles" than I usually associate with particleboard. The close-up of this picture is NOT representative of the item in the store: 1 1/8" x 11 1/4" x 72" Shelving at Menards
It looks like it would produce good clean edges with cutting and routing, as the edge corners of the shelving boards are quite sharp. Its size, as shelving material, makes it very manageable to work with, and the price is right.
Does anyone have experience with this product with which they can either encourage or discourage me to proceed?
Pondering particleboard in Indianapolis,
David
It looks like it would produce good clean edges with cutting and routing, as the edge corners of the shelving boards are quite sharp. Its size, as shelving material, makes it very manageable to work with, and the price is right.
Does anyone have experience with this product with which they can either encourage or discourage me to proceed?
Pondering particleboard in Indianapolis,
David
As a general statement, Many big name manufacturers have used particle board for their speakers.
I recently worked on a pair of mid 90's Polk Monitors that were made from 5/8" quality particle board.
They sounded fantastic even for 20 yr old speakers.
Some say good quality particle board is better for building speakers than MDF.
I recently worked on a pair of mid 90's Polk Monitors that were made from 5/8" quality particle board.
They sounded fantastic even for 20 yr old speakers.
Some say good quality particle board is better for building speakers than MDF.
+1.
1.25" not likely to the same level as 18mm quality ply, but the larger particles make it less homogenous than MDF with larger impedance boundaries for damping.
dave
This material looks very similar to the stuff I've been using for a very long time. Earlier I had used a thinner 5/8" stock but when I screwed down a tapered (flush) style phillips screw and I was one half inch from the edge the wood would "collapse", fracturing before the screw was flush.
I then went to a full 1" version for all my builds, no "collapse" failures. Of course the proper size pilot hole is used.
As long as the cuts are squared right it is very easy & stout stuff....perhaps more so than "my" stuff @ 1".
Since it is so thick you need not make "tricky" joints.....squared up 'plain' joints are more than enough. I ran 2" screws for one inch material spaced about five inches....your case I would go with 2 1/4" screws....glued of course before you screw it down. My 17 YO towers are built with one inch, still stout & have been jostled about lots....no fatal damage...a bit of rounding on the corners but they need refurbing anyway. The solidity IS impressive...rapping knuckles on the side still gives me a very high pitch sound....similar to striking a 4X4 end on.
I think it would make for good stuff.
_____________________________________________________Rick.....
I then went to a full 1" version for all my builds, no "collapse" failures. Of course the proper size pilot hole is used.
As long as the cuts are squared right it is very easy & stout stuff....perhaps more so than "my" stuff @ 1".
Since it is so thick you need not make "tricky" joints.....squared up 'plain' joints are more than enough. I ran 2" screws for one inch material spaced about five inches....your case I would go with 2 1/4" screws....glued of course before you screw it down. My 17 YO towers are built with one inch, still stout & have been jostled about lots....no fatal damage...a bit of rounding on the corners but they need refurbing anyway. The solidity IS impressive...rapping knuckles on the side still gives me a very high pitch sound....similar to striking a 4X4 end on.
I think it would make for good stuff.
_____________________________________________________Rick.....
The particleboard we have in the UK, often has small pieces of metal in it and will dull a blade quite quickly.
MDF is easier to work with but make sure you get a very good quality face mask (not one of those cheap paper ones).
I like using Gorilla glue for my builds because it expands and gives a nice airtight seal.
MDF is easier to work with but make sure you get a very good quality face mask (not one of those cheap paper ones).
I like using Gorilla glue for my builds because it expands and gives a nice airtight seal.
FWIW I made thousands of MI cabinets out of "good" particleboard.
The whiter, harder, fine grained one.
Tried industry standard MDF and always went back to particleboard: much lighter, and does not split as easily when getting nails and screws on edges.
Only problem is that edges and cutouts are quite rough, compared to smooth LDF, but since I tolex/carpet them, it's not a factor.
The whiter, harder, fine grained one.
Tried industry standard MDF and always went back to particleboard: much lighter, and does not split as easily when getting nails and screws on edges.
Only problem is that edges and cutouts are quite rough, compared to smooth LDF, but since I tolex/carpet them, it's not a factor.
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