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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

Help replacing crossover in vintage EV S-1503 please?
Help replacing crossover in vintage EV S-1503 please?
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Old 4th January 2013, 04:45 AM   #1
phmosele is offline phmosele
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Default Help replacing crossover in vintage EV S-1503 please?

These old ladies are knocking on a bit now, and I was planning on replacing the crossovers with some new pre-built ones. It might come under "If it ain't broke..." but I think it is maybe starting to be broke, and I'd rather do it now than have em crap out when it counts. Some of the caps in here look a bit tired, and there is starting to be some cracking in the mids, which could be a sign perhaps??

According to the spec, the crossovers are at 600 and 4K. Parts Express has some with crossover points of
500 and 4K at 12dB Dayton Audio XO3W-500/4K 3-Way Crossover 500/4,000 Hz 260-152

625 and 5K at 12dB Dayton Audio XO3W-625/5K 3-Way Crossover 625/5,000 Hz 260-154

500 and 5K 12 dB/octave LP, 6 dB/octave MP, 18 dB/octave HP Eminence PXB3:5K0 3-Way Crossover Board 500/5,000 Hz 290-654

500 and 3.5K 12 dB/octave LP, 6 dB/octave MP, 18 dB/octave HP Eminence PXB3:3K5 3-Way Crossover Board 500/3,500 Hz 290-652

Would any of these work please? There is a spec here if it is useful Google

Thanks very much
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Old 4th January 2013, 05:12 AM   #2
PeteMcK is offline PeteMcK
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Western Sydney
re:"Would any of these work" - can't tell unless impedance plots of the drivers are available, and the component values of the pre-built crossovers are available.

Better just to replace all the caps, if the drivers are in good condition
Impedance varies with frequency, use impedance plots of your drivers and make crossover calculations using the actual impedance of the driver at the crossover frequency
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Old 4th January 2013, 11:46 AM   #3
phase_accurate is offline phase_accurate
diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Switzerland
In this case I would say :" If it ain't broken, don't brake it!". Sorry, but couldn't resist.

As the other response said: Change just the defective caps and check for bad soldering joints and oxidised contacts.
But don't change the x-over against another one with similar crossover frequencies that wasn't designed for exactly these drivers. Your box would still work, but the frequency response wouldn't be the same anymore.


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Old 4th January 2013, 09:41 PM   #4
phmosele is offline phmosele
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
IIRC from when I was in there upgrading the wiring, there was no value on the caps (unless it's in the glue, which it could be I suppose).

I don't really care if the frequecy response is exactly the same; it probably isn't going to sound the same anyway with a new crossover. Might sound better, might not. I'm checking these out for someone else who doesn't know what a frequency response is, and frankly he's becoming a royal pain. But, there are 4 of these boxes, so if I need to change one (which I think I do) I have to change em all.

All I'm really interested in is not blowing the mids (which are some kind of compressive cone driver is the best I can describe it; EV calls it a "vented midrange," which might have been revolutionary 35 years ago, and they just aren't around any more). In which case, would anyone second my notion that the Dayton crossover at 625 and 5K would work OK please? I realize 5K is higher than 4K, and of course there could be a hole there, but I can bump it up with the EQ if necessary. I would be surprised if a cone midrange would just drop out before 5K, wouldn't you?
EV has a full spec online as a PDF and I tried to post the URL for you technical chaps, but it wouldn't post the fill address. If you care to google S-1503 it is the second entry, and I would really appreciate your input, especially given the 4-5K issue please.
Thanks a lot
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Old 5th January 2013, 11:13 AM   #5
thejohn is offline thejohn  South Africa
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Cape Town, South Africa
All the values are in the schematic in the EDS from EV... see attached. I agree with the previous posters, just replace the caps.
I've had plenty of these speakers and they sound pretty good - why mess it up?

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