Adding a super tweeter to a full range

[cogitech]

Originally Posted by portreathbeach

Facing up! I've seen a few designs with speakers facing up. Never really considered it with tweeters, as I always thought the tweeters needed to face the listener.

Streten.....KISS?

The KISS principle; Keep it Simple, Stupid!

Facing up is an easy way to attenuate and disperse, for those of us who are too lazy to learn electronics and/or find directional high frequencies annoying/distracting. I am a real "full range" fan, so facing the tweeters up adds the "air' without removing the full range "magic". I would think facing them up also tends to minimize or eliminate (or maybe just "mask") some of the pitfalls of multi-way systems, such as combing, timing issues, etc. (but I am just guessing).

Note: My dual EL70 microTowers already have one of the drivers facing up (and one forward, of course) so adding an upward-firing tweeter seemed obvious, especially when I felt the forward-facing tweeter was "more air than I wanted". Many might think "what a waste of a tweeter, to point it at the ceiling!", however I can assure you that the tweeter is very much a part of the sound experience in this configuration, without becoming a nuisance.

In your situation, orienting the tweeter in this manner might entirely eliminate the need for electronic attenuation, and might bring the added benefit of a more open, disperse airiness in the highs. Only trial and error, and your personal taste will tell...

Another option which I have seen is to add the tweeter to the back of the cabinet, using the rear wall as a deflector. I may play with this configuration as well.

[planet10]

Originally Posted by cogitech

Sansui AA-2900

Pictures? The one i found in a quick google was poor.

Looks like a 2.5" cone, likely XOed with a single cap -- how big is it.

I have a ton of little vintage tweeters that could be had for the price of shipping, some for a few coins or a bribe, and the ApexJr Audax & ERT26 new.

dave

PS: the 2 daytons are likely the same with different bezels for different aps.

[cogitech]

Well, mine are already ripped apart, so pics wouldn't be very helpful, but here is a Kijiji add with an OK photo... SANSUI AA-2900 2-way speakers

Mine actually looked to be in better shape than those ones.

It's a 2.5" paper cone. The cabinets themselves are 9 3/4"W x 8 1/4"D x 19 3/4"H.

I will take a photo of my setup as it is, and the crossover, and one of you geniuses will be able to figure out where it is crossed

BTW, I have done a "ghetto eNable" on them; Mod Podge spray, and they look much better now

Originally Posted by planet10

Pictures? The one i found in a quick google was poor.

Looks like a 2.5" cone, likely XOed with a single cap -- how big is it.

I have a ton of little vintage tweeters that could be had for the price of shipping, some for a few coins or a bribe, and the ApexJr Audax & ERT26 new.

dave

PS: the 2 daytons are likely the same with different bezels for different aps.

[portreathbeach]

OK. I think I will get the Dayton ND20FA-6 (can get them with shipping from a European audio shop with shipping for about £25) I have come up with a nice way to mount them also.....

I will get a short piece of hardwood mopstick handrail, like this:



hollow it out and mount the tweeter in the front and an aluminium disk on the back as a connection plate. As it will be hollowed out, I can put the various caps and resistors inside. The flat part of the handrail will sit nice on top of my speaker cabinet.

I was thinking how to connect this to my original speaker, so I thought about using an RCA connectors. I could cut a hole in the top rear of my cabinet and insert on of these:

Neutrik NF2D-0 Phono RCA Chassis/Panel Socket Black | eBay

and then use a standard one on the back of the tweeter's housing. Any thoughts on using RCA phono connectors? I checked a few on Farnell's website and they say they are rated to 5 amp. I would obviously make my own cables, not actually use standard RCA cables.

[sreten]

Hi,

KISS is "keep it simple stupid", if something simple seems to gel,
don't overcomplicate it, even if it doesn't work you'll learn a lot,
but most often it does work. Something more complicated may
or may not work, but being complicated its harder to learn from.

rgds, sreten.

Though I have to admit the simple scheme is better than
it might first appear due to relatively complex concepts.

[planet10]

Originally Posted by cogitech

Well, mine are already ripped apart, so pics wouldn't be very helpful,

Actually the opposite, i am only interested in pics of the drivers.

dave

[cogitech]

Originally Posted by planet10

Actually the opposite, i am only interested in pics of the drivers.

dave

Ahhh, OK. (I should have known that!)

Will post pics a bit later...

[planet10]

Originally Posted by portreathbeach

OK. I think I will get the Dayton ND20FA-6 I have come up with a nice way to mount them also.....

I was going to do something similar for a co-ax mount T in the Pioneer B20. The tweeter fits perfectly on the end of an apprpriate diamter dowel and can be fixed to the end with a standard size chunk of shrink wrap. I have tweeters, dowel and shrinkwrap but i gave my B20s to GM

dave

[portreathbeach]

What about using RCA phono plugs. Will that be OK do you think? It would look neat and tidy

[cogitech]

Some interesting discussion in this thread Adding a tweeter to full range