I bought some cherry veneered 2-ways a while ago and decided to look under the hood. Not sure if they were a kit. They are 15 7/8" x 9 7/8" x 7 1/8" with 1/2" walls. 6 1/2" woofer labled Eclipse W6518 with 719834 on the magnet. The tweeters say made in Germany 28 8 ohm 95-6383. They had a diffuser on them that I removed. The speakers were ok but had an odd peak in the highs. After I snipped out the plastic in front they were a bit dull. A little boost on the treble control of an older Luxman receiver has them sounding pretty balanced and the peak is gone.
If anyone can tell me anything about them I would appreciate it.
If anyone can tell me anything about them I would appreciate it.
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I have Magnat tweeters in a Dahlquist with that kind of grid in front of the dome, maybe just for protection. Eclipse as a brand was at one time a Matsushita deal; they paid a local speaker builder to stop using it when they went upscale (slightly) in car audio. Many Euro domes had such a structure in front. We had to remove the grills, remember?
The peak in the highs is probably cone breakup/basket resonance conspiring to make us blame the tweeter.
The peak in the highs is probably cone breakup/basket resonance conspiring to make us blame the tweeter.
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Thank everyone for the replies! I think the builder tried to replicate the Proac Studio 1's. They along with MB Quart and the Avalon Ascent II, which I have heard, used this tweeter. The Avalon unit had a screen mesh with the plastic protection removed. I have also seen a few Proac Studio 1's sold that had the plastic piece removed so I may have done the right thing. The speakers sounded fair before as I had to turn the bass up and the treble way down to be even a bit beareble. Seemed like substandard parts with the crossover saying 'hear I am'. After the removal of the obstruction they became overly mellow. A very slight cut in the bass and the treble at 1:30 has these sounding near amazing. My wife and I have heard a lot of high end gear over decades and these are now worthy of being in our bedroom.
So I dug a bit deeper and unearthed the crossover. Any hints to boasting the highs just enough to be neutral now? I know this is a tough call. Is the 3ohm resistor the key? Not sure if the value should go up or down. Are the crossover parts of low quality? Try not to laugh too hard at my drawing, I am a listener not a builder.
Any ideas about the mid/woofer driver? It seems to sound quite good just would like to know what it is.
By the way I bought these a few years ago off an older gentleman who had them built for his wife to listen to Classical music on. He told me they were of very high quality and a friend that worked at a community college had built them. He said if I did not like them within a few days I could return them. I kept them around to demo equipment and felt the twenty I gave him was fine for that purpose. Now I am thrilled.
So I dug a bit deeper and unearthed the crossover. Any hints to boasting the highs just enough to be neutral now? I know this is a tough call. Is the 3ohm resistor the key? Not sure if the value should go up or down. Are the crossover parts of low quality? Try not to laugh too hard at my drawing, I am a listener not a builder.
Any ideas about the mid/woofer driver? It seems to sound quite good just would like to know what it is.
By the way I bought these a few years ago off an older gentleman who had them built for his wife to listen to Classical music on. He told me they were of very high quality and a friend that worked at a community college had built them. He said if I did not like them within a few days I could return them. I kept them around to demo equipment and felt the twenty I gave him was fine for that purpose. Now I am thrilled.
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Yes, I tried to revise my post but I could not. I will post the corrected 'diagram'. What is the 3 ohm resistor doing? I have estimated the db's on the tweeter needed to be about 2-3 db up. Does that translate/can it be calulated somewhere to be a change from the 5 ohm resistor value? Such as 1 ohm lower = x db's or are there too many variables?
Anyone want to take a wag at the maker of the mid/woofer driver? Suppose a small change in the resistor will not effect anything else in the crossover.
Is the big blob of Santa's beard all that is needed for the interior?
Thank you for everyones input.
Anyone want to take a wag at the maker of the mid/woofer driver? Suppose a small change in the resistor will not effect anything else in the crossover.
Is the big blob of Santa's beard all that is needed for the interior?
Thank you for everyones input.
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hello.
the 3ohm/5ohm res-combo is a voltage divider.......is like a fixed volume control for the tweeter.
i played around with the simulator.
if you change 5ohm to 4,7ohm and 3ohm to 3,9ohm you should get +1,5db more treble (this shifts the entire frequency response of the tweeter upwards....)
the 3ohm/5ohm res-combo is a voltage divider.......is like a fixed volume control for the tweeter.
i played around with the simulator.
if you change 5ohm to 4,7ohm and 3ohm to 3,9ohm you should get +1,5db more treble (this shifts the entire frequency response of the tweeter upwards....)
Ok, now I am not sure. If it is as simple as lowering the 5 ohm resistor then should I fool with the 3 ohm unit? I played some music using Windows Media Player and my wife and I agree that 1 db is not enough but 2 db is too much so +1.5 it is. I used the graphic EQ in MP raising the 4khz, 8 khz and the 16khz all up 1 or 2 db together and also moving back to flat. The best tool I have to rough it in. I would like to get this right as I am going to buy Mills resistors. Might recap, same value, with quality while I am in there.
I am such a novice, is this a 12db 2nd order crossover? Is the crossover about 3khz?
You guys are great!!
....yes, try it out, to find the best solution.......
those "cement wire wound resistors" have some inductance, i use mox(metal oxide)res or so for the tweeter crossover.
the woofer has only one coil in the signal path.....first order,around 6db.
the tweeter has two (frequency dependent) parts in the path......second order, but not 12db (should be 7uF + 0,9mH),it has a steeper slope.
not a textbook application ,may call it a mixed crossover,a special design for this two drivers.
those "cement wire wound resistors" have some inductance, i use mox(metal oxide)res or so for the tweeter crossover.
the woofer has only one coil in the signal path.....first order,around 6db.
the tweeter has two (frequency dependent) parts in the path......second order, but not 12db (should be 7uF + 0,9mH),it has a steeper slope.
not a textbook application ,may call it a mixed crossover,a special design for this two drivers.
And inductance in the resistors does what to the sound?
The part about, should be 7uF + .9mH, do I need to shoot for right on 7 for the cap, I see 6.8uF are common too far off?, and the coil needs to be replaced with a .9 unit? Is the crossover off a bit?
Or are you saying that the 2 drivers were blended the best they can be. Sorry, this is a bit over my head but I am trying.
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Ok, I understand. I just wanted to be sure there were no errors before I upgraded the parts. I do not 'hear' the crossover as there seems to be good driver integration.
I was going to try the Clarity Cap PX caps but with the odd 7.2 value I would need 2 in parallel and that seems a bit pricy. Any suggestions for other quality units?
I tried to draw up the schematic, is it correct? Thank you!
I was going to try the Clarity Cap PX caps but with the odd 7.2 value I would need 2 in parallel and that seems a bit pricy. Any suggestions for other quality units?
I tried to draw up the schematic, is it correct? Thank you!
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