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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

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Old 21st November 2012, 11:01 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moondog55 View Post
404 on the top link jerome
This works better :
Le Phenix Noir : Le Coin de l'Audiophile > Base HP
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Old 21st November 2012, 11:03 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by elves1111 View Post
Steel Laminate 5.5 mH 15 AWG Inductor rated at .257 DCR ohms
You can keep this one for the woofer instead buy a 4.7mH.
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Old 21st November 2012, 11:33 AM   #23
Dissi is offline Dissi  Switzerland
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Originally Posted by jerome69 View Post
Hi, There is something wrong in this sim, I use actual measurements to sim your proposal, I have a low z nearly 2ohms at 100Hz ! the problem is the 150uF
The sensitivity 84dB is too low, Keep it at least at 87dB. This speaker will be near a wall. The bass step with this drivers is less than 6dB, ~3dB
The phase tracking is bad ..

Can you redesign it ?
No need to redesign it. The impedance at 100 Hz is never 2 ohms, the sensitivity at 1m is 85-86 dB and the phase tracking is not bad. The SPL at both crossover frequencies is +6 dB.
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Old 21st November 2012, 12:29 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Dissi View Post
No need to redesign it. The impedance at 100 Hz is never 2 ohms, the sensitivity at 1m is 85-86 dB and the phase tracking is not bad. The SPL at both crossover frequencies is +6 dB.
Yes with data from model not with real data. Note I own measurements of Focal drivers very closed to the drivers in this thread and sure your modelisation is wrong. I don't write that to bother you, for sure, but I don't have time to loose with this if you don't want to read this.
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Old 21st November 2012, 01:49 PM   #25
Dissi is offline Dissi  Switzerland
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And I use measurements of the real drivers, not any Focals that are only assumed to be close. By the way, the woofer is not Focal, it is the NHT 1259, and an impedance measurement is here:

Misure Woofer NHT 1259-4

Please check your own simulation, your 2 ohm theory is certainly wrong.
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Old 22nd November 2012, 01:47 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by PeteMcK View Post
where did you get the impedance values from? - these should come from an impedance plot of the driver, at the chosen crossover frequency.
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Impedance varies with frequency, use impedance plots of your drivers and make crossover calculations using the actual impedance of the driver at the crossover frequency

Last edited by wintermute; 22nd November 2012 at 06:10 AM. Reason: fix quote.
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Old 23rd November 2012, 04:25 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dissi View Post
And I use measurements of the real drivers, not any Focals that are only assumed to be close. By the way, the woofer is not Focal, it is the NHT 1259, and an impedance measurement is here:

Misure Woofer NHT 1259-4

Please check your own simulation, your 2 ohm theory is certainly wrong.
Better and easier data access for the NHT1259 with phase...
Lungster.Com - NHT1259 impedance
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Old 23rd November 2012, 11:21 AM   #28
tinitus is offline tinitus  Europe
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Originally Posted by Dissi View Post
No need to redesign it. The impedance at 100 Hz is never 2 ohms.........
try 150uf/1R5 zobel on a woofer I would say thats a tough one

try to increase the resistor to somewhere above woofer impedance, it might help
maybe the 4mH could have been bigger
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Old 24th November 2012, 03:35 AM   #29
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i'm confused now with so many answers as which direction to go now. the crossover that they are hooked up to now, do not sound great. sure, there isn't any distortion at low levels, but i don't want to turn them up loud enough to find out. theres too much "crosstalk" i think you'd call it. definitely needs some work.
so the nominal impedance isn't necessarily what you use to design the crossover with? i found to nominal impedances for the NHT 1259, one says 4 and the other 6.
basically at this point whichever components i can use to get the bass more defined or having punch, and the mids as warm as possible, and no hissing highs thru the tweeters.
if i used an active XO, do i need an amp per driver or would a 2 channel amp work?
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Old 24th November 2012, 04:53 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by elves1111 View Post
i'm confused now with so many answers as which direction to go now.
why don't you start with your original idea ? not so bad, trust me. The only expensive part is the 130uF cap 35$.
The only things I see in your original idea is to reverse the midrange, increase its inductor value to 1mH, add 10ohms in series with the 7.5uF.
And you can keep your 5.5.mH ! I calculate 120$ upgrade with 70$ cap. You can test with 125uF electrolitic cap 3$ total cost 50$.
I think you should not spend too much money with so old drivers.
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