There are so many ways to do it .... I'm going to be doing the same thing, and this is how I've determined I'll do it.
I'm going to create the sides by layering 3 x .25" layers over frames attached to both front and back baffles. These layers will lap over a .75" sub baffle and will probably be bonded with epoxy (for clarity, the sides will be on the outside edges of the sub baffle). The layer edges can be routed flush with a simple jig using the plane of the front baffle as the reference. A second .75" baffle will be bonded to the first baffle, overlapping it to cover the 'crude' edges of the layered sides. The angled edges of the 2nd front baffle can be cut on the table saw.
I'm going to create the sides by layering 3 x .25" layers over frames attached to both front and back baffles. These layers will lap over a .75" sub baffle and will probably be bonded with epoxy (for clarity, the sides will be on the outside edges of the sub baffle). The layer edges can be routed flush with a simple jig using the plane of the front baffle as the reference. A second .75" baffle will be bonded to the first baffle, overlapping it to cover the 'crude' edges of the layered sides. The angled edges of the 2nd front baffle can be cut on the table saw.
Ultimate Bass Cabinets Article By Jeff Poth
These use millwork L quarter rounds with butt joints (though it's more like a rabbeted joint) and strap clamps. Works pretty darned well if you cut the bracing just right.
These use millwork L quarter rounds with butt joints (though it's more like a rabbeted joint) and strap clamps. Works pretty darned well if you cut the bracing just right.
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