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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

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Old 30th November 2012, 09:58 PM   #81
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Enuff to firmly contact the magnet, not so much as to stress the basket (similarily, screws/bolts that attach the driver should only be tightened such that they are torques just enuff to hold a real (or imaginary) washer from spinning).

If the brace is a little short, paper or wood slivers (like veneer) can be used as shims.

dave
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Old 30th November 2012, 11:19 PM   #82
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do you think I can get away with no chamfer on top?
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Old 1st December 2012, 12:31 PM   #83
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thanks on the brace and driver information Dave. I am sanding to fine tune the fitment but now may have too much pressure on the drivers so will back it off a little thanks again.
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Old 1st December 2012, 03:58 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8ntractor View Post
do you think I can get away with no chamfer on top?
They are your speakers, you CAN get away with anything you want. Should is a different story. The chamfers are there for edge diffraction reasons, same as roundovers. IMO symetry is important for quality of looks.

You can use a layer or two of felt between the braces and the rear of the driver for support.

Ron
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Old 3rd December 2012, 05:35 AM   #85
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thanks
I was wondering about something like felt the idea of wood right against the driver makes me a little nervous. but I did carefully hand sand until the plywood was just touching the driver while the brace was touching the baffle.

I did chamfer the sides so I think I will chamfer the top. I was worried about edge diffraction it seems important.

Any more thoughts on the a long length of wire after the crossover? I was thinking about keeping the crossovers on the equipment rack and then running the 8ft wire to the speakers. It would make things easy for crossover changes. The crossovers are biwired anyway but I will keep the crossovers closer to the speaker if it matters. I have tried searching this site but cannot find the correct search terms to get the answer.

thanks
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Old 3rd December 2012, 08:39 PM   #86
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8N,
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Just off the cuff, I can't see why it would make any difference where the XO is located in the length of wire from the Amp to the speakers. Using good quality parts (thick wire inductors) won't drop the current enough to really matter. IMO.

Ron
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Old 5th December 2012, 06:59 AM   #87
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thanks Ron
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Old 5th December 2012, 09:58 PM   #88
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few more pics.

I think i will just wire from the bottom woofer to the top woofer in parallel. instead
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Old 9th December 2012, 01:26 AM   #89
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Nice work so far, Ben.
For future reference, both KJP Hardwoods in Ottawa, and Wood Source in Manotick carry Baltic birch and various hardwood plywoods, as well as solid wood.
John

Last edited by bearberry; 9th December 2012 at 01:27 AM. Reason: typo
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Old 9th December 2012, 04:05 PM   #90
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Ben,
Those are sure looking solid! Got a fork lift to move'em? LOL
Your are correct in thinking you should wire upper mid woofer from bottom mid woofer. in //. //=parallel
Keep the pics coming! Love it!
Ron
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