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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

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Old 24th November 2012, 02:18 AM   #71
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thank you both so much. I will try to contact seas directly. I hate to say this but if I have to buy the drivers again it will be a hardship and i may have to rethink this build.

Ron I am guessing that I should go thru the crossover?. Or can I just connect the speaker wire directly to the tweeter? By the way I wish I had your router skills. my holes are not very round. thankfully the drivers will cover my mistakes!!! After standing back ( I tried going back a couple of hundred feet and even that did not help) and looking at my the speaker holes I think investment in a set of hole saws is a good Idea!!

Really appreciate all your help I really can't thank you both enough.
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Old 24th November 2012, 12:09 PM   #72
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I have a couple of questions on the build. does the holey brace touch the tweeter or just the woofers and does it touch just the back of the woofer or the basket and the back of the woofer.

Thanks

Ben
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Old 24th November 2012, 10:29 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8ntractor View Post
does the holey brace touch the tweeter
No

Quote:
or just the woofers and does it touch just the back of the woofer or the basket and the back of the woofer.
Holey brace tight up against the backs of the woofer magnet... just enuff to tranfer energy to the brace, not enuff to stress the basket.

dave
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Old 25th November 2012, 08:34 AM   #74
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thanks Dave
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Old 25th November 2012, 10:32 PM   #75
Renron is offline Renron  United States
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Tweeters should be run through the XOvers, so you don't damage them, woofers naaaaa, just don't turn it up loud.
Hole Saws are fine for plumbing, buy a router hole cutter. Jasper Jig. Perfect holes every time. But you do need a plunge router (unless you are very talented)

Parts-Express.com ? Jasper ? Jasper Tools, Jasper Audio, Circle Jigs, Circular Template, Plunge Router Circle Guide, One-Pass Circle Guide
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Last edited by Renron; 25th November 2012 at 10:35 PM.
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Old 26th November 2012, 09:07 PM   #76
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Hi

Well I ran the tweeters with the crossovers and they both make noise.

Thanks for the tip on the jasper and plunge router.

I finished the port holes today the pipe fits very well and coming from both sides seemed to make a better hole (the baffle is already glued together.) I will never have to worry about some one mistaking the speaker for a nasty commercial speaker the hand craftsmenship is evident.

they did say using felt on the baffle is a good Idea


working on the holey brace layout and still trying to find someone to get a new surround from.

with the crossover outside the speakers do you wire the speaker terminals directly to the speakers? Do you run separate wires to each mid or do you wire the mids in series? the crossover is set up for biwire I think. It is the madisound premium crossover so may need to be reworked.

I guess what I am thinking is wire each woofer back to the woofer terminal then wire the tweeter directly to the tweeter terminal. then hook the crossover up externally to the terminal. Then wire the amp to the crossover.

That leads me to another question do you want the signal (wire) shorter from the amp to the crossover or from the crossover to the drivers?
I know the commercial speakers have the crossover built in but the crossovers could just go into the equipment rack with biwire it makes no difference in material.

thanks

Ben
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Old 26th November 2012, 10:17 PM   #77
Renron is offline Renron  United States
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I felt your pain.
inside the cabinet, run the wires from the binding posts to the woofers in // (parallel)
you can run from the lower speaker to the upper, no problem. No time smear.
tweeter is self explanatory.
Never thought about Amp to XO to Speakers, length of wire question before. My XO is about 1 meter from my speakers. Don't know if it really matters, I'm not smart enough.
Do ensure that from the XO the tweet and woofer negatives are separate. (future proof)
Ron

Hey..........where's the photo?
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Old 27th November 2012, 11:00 PM   #78
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Here are a few pics.

The baffle needs some sanding but otherwise is done. I am still working on the fitment of the holey brace. then I will make it holey. the back is cut with the terminal cups cut out. I screwed up the measurements now I know how I got 30" I did not include the base so when I changed it to 30 3/4" I misplaced the drivers by 3/4" so my plan is to add a second 3/4" layer to the top and put in windows so the drivers will be the correct amount from the top of the speaker inside and out. the speaker overall will be 3/4" taller than spec. It will also let me put a larger chamfer on the top of the speaker. The wire is no its way. Other work is getting in the way right now so progress may stall for the next week or so. When you cut the pipe for the port I assume you measure from the front of the baffle?

Is there a recommended assembly order? Or just try to fit the assembly together and glue/clamp without the top and bottom.

I will have to paint the speakers in the spring. We have our first couple of inches of snow and I doubt very much that the weather will be warm enough to paint until at least April.

thanks

Ben
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Old 28th November 2012, 07:00 PM   #79
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The larger bevel on the top won't make much difference, do it if you like the look.
The port length is measured from the front of the baffle to the rear of the port tube.
Additional height won't matter, I too doubled the tops of the speakers with holes drilled into the lower layer, helps keep them solid sounding. Tweeters should be near listening (ear) height.
Looking good, thanks for the pictures.
I built my boxes in this order, sides/ back/ baffle/ top/ bottom. What ever way works for you and is the easiest is the best. No set rules. Think what is the easiest way to line up the parts and go from there.
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Old 30th November 2012, 09:08 PM   #80
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What is the correct amount of pressure to put on the drivers with the holey brace. I guess the best way to ask the questions is how many .001" of space should be between the brace and the back of the baffle when the drivers are touching the brace?
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