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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

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Old 21st November 2012, 12:00 AM   #41
Renron is offline Renron  United States
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Old 21st November 2012, 07:50 AM   #42
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Hi
Does anybody know it speaker wire goes bad over time and if this would work to wire from the crossover to the speakers / binding post not sure if 12 awg is too big?
NOS 12 AWG OFC silver plated wire. Bought in 1985.


thanks

Ben
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Old 21st November 2012, 08:47 AM   #43
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In my mind that is too big... but these are current hungry.

Silver plated should keep the oxygen away from the surface of the wire, strip it back and see if the copper is turning green.

dave
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Old 21st November 2012, 09:08 AM   #44
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This is probably a really dumb questions but I keep reading that the mtm should have the tweeter as close as possible to the woofer. Also a off center tweeter helps with edge diffraction. If I move the tweeter off center and wolfers closer to each other does that mean a complete redesign of the crossover? probably not worth worrying about especially for a first build.

Thanks
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Old 21st November 2012, 09:43 AM   #45
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Yes (the goal is to get C-C-C within a 1/4 wavelength at the xo frequency), Yes, probably not.

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Old 21st November 2012, 02:15 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8ntractor View Post
Hi
Does anybody know it speaker wire goes bad over time and if this would work to wire from the crossover to the speakers / binding post not sure if 12 awg is too big?
NOS 12 AWG OFC silver plated wire. Bought in 1985.


thanks

Ben

It depends on a number of things WRT insulation, manufacturing tolerances, but if you buy wire that meets the various UL/CSA requirements, none of them should be an issue.

For instance, a few weeks ago I found a pair of 15 ft long 16 ga brown lamp cord with silver soldered ends I used back in '69 and compared them with the same in white I bought in '94 except bare ends and all runs measured 0.5 ohm with a one time professionally calibrated digital multi-meter.

Wire sizing is about voltage drop over distance [round trip, not one way], so the longer the run and/or the higher the current draw, the larger the wire needs to be.

GM
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Old 21st November 2012, 02:17 PM   #47
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Thanks again Dave
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Old 21st November 2012, 02:19 PM   #48
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Thanks again GM
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Old 21st November 2012, 03:54 PM   #49
Renron is offline Renron  United States
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How many strands in the 12ga?
More the better.
12 ga. may be a little over kill, but shouldn't hurt anything either.
XO on the outside of the speaker, right?

Here is what I have from my XO to the binding posts.
One set of binding posts for the woofers, one set for the tweeters. You should consider doing this too IMO. Keep the (-) separate too. I'm happy I did. Future Proof.

I have 2 runs of pure (enough) silver 20ga. in Teflon for the tweeters. 2 for the positive, 2 for the negative. (no problems yet Sy)
4 strands of 26ga. (8 total) solid Cat 6 copper in Teflon (plenum grade) for the woofers.
From the binding posts to the drivers is the same format.

I used 16 ga silver plated copper inside the XO. It's what I had on hand at the time.

Just showing what I did, not saying it's right.

Pictures are showing the backside of the baffle routed out (different speaker build) and my Thor XO.


Ron
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File Type: jpg 112.JPG (568.0 KB, 156 views)
File Type: jpg Thor Crossover 007.jpg (619.1 KB, 154 views)
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Old 21st November 2012, 10:06 PM   #50
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Thanks all

the wire is teflon coated multistrand silver plated ofc. It is a far better price than anything I can buy retail. So even though its pretty heavy as long as it will not hurt anything I am going to go for it.

While getting ready to lay out the speakers on the baffles I noticed that one of the mids has a tear in the surround. I have some of the glue that you use to replace the surrounds from a Salvation army 5.00 BA speaker I bought and replaced the surround on. I could try glueing it? is there some other way to fix? I replaced the surrounds on a 5.00 speaker dont really want to do it on a speaker of this caliber. will it hurt anything can I just leave it?

Here is a build update
I have been thinking about how to cut the circles and finally after reading several areas made a circle cutter. I used a concrete screw anchor plastic and the first one did fine on the scrap piece the second hole I did the anchor flew out once i taped the anchor is it worked really well. Even though all I got done today is the flange area it was good to figure out a method. they came out ok for the first ones. Here are pics.

And another question. I am going to order a 3" port are they exactly 3" I would like to finish the baffle before the ports get here.

Thanks again
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File Type: jpg P1010009.JPG (559.4 KB, 133 views)
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