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Old 16th November 2012, 07:11 PM   #11
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thanks Dave
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Old 16th November 2012, 08:42 PM   #12
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Thanks Dave

I was reading a thread on what material ... and I read about cld. I plan to use 5/8 and 3/4 bb for the baffle. I happen to have log cabin chinking which is acrylic polymer if it were a side panel I would be inclined to use it but I am not sure about using it on the front baffle as I think it may cause the front portion of the baffle to move independant of the rest of the speaker. which would be better?

Only one of the two boxes of speaker components got to customs!!!
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Old 16th November 2012, 09:09 PM   #13
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I would think that with CLD on the front baffle, it would be advantagous to float the outside layer (securing the drivers to the inside layer)

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Old 17th November 2012, 12:25 AM   #14
Renron is offline Renron  United States
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It looks like you have some good caps there. Mundorf Supreme? A couple of those caps look like they are soldered together to form a larger one 18.2 Uf? Clarity caps are fine too. Like Dave says, "Don't over think it". Plan ahead, draw it out first for the cut sheets. Enjoy the process. Don't fret. It will sound Fantastic.
Dave,
Still lovin' 'em. The cherry gets darker each year.
Ron
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Old 17th November 2012, 11:06 AM   #15
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Thanks for the help
Dave in the front baffle do you mean secure the drivers to both layers I assume the driver always has to be secured to the outside layer to be flush with the the baffle.

Ron thanks I have already burned thru half a note pad of graph paper. The biggest threat is not remembering which drawing I am using after I start building. The original crossover has the 18 Uf are any of the parts usable in the new crossover?

If I build the side panels 1" is there anything wrong with 3/4" bb on the outside and 1/4" on the inside around the holey braces (like a false dado) and use cld, I can get the 3/4" in a 4x8 and I think it will be of higher quality and I only need one. all the other bb is 5x5. it looks like using a variety of thickness is a good thing and could be used selectively some places 3/4" some 1" some even 1 1/4" where there is no brace. I am intrigued by layering plywood with the cld as I would think this would have a very isolating effect.

thanks again I will try to stop asking so many dumb questions. I spend a lot of time trying to find the answers on this site but I start reading and all of sudden hours are gone and altho I learned a lot, often I still don't really know the answer. once I get the plan down I can get the material. In would like to get started and as I keep learning my plan keeps evolving. Last week I cut the panels out of 5/8 ply and the baffle out of MDF The ply will be repurposed as braces now. How do you repurpose MDF?? : )
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Old 17th November 2012, 05:15 PM   #16
Renron is offline Renron  United States
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My baffles are 3/4" MDF, braced the Hell out of 'em. No problems here.
The backside of the baffles were glued to the braces.
As long as the 3/4" ply is solid and has no voids between the layers, go for it!
Ron
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Old 17th November 2012, 06:25 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8ntractor View Post
Thanks for the help
Dave in the front baffle do you mean secure the drivers to both layers I assume the driver always has to be secured to the outside layer to be flush with the the baffle.
Except fot the (squishy) glue, the outer piece of a constrained layer should not we attached to the driver or the reat of the box in any way.

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Old 17th November 2012, 10:48 PM   #18
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Thank you both.

I am finding that I am spending a lot of time reading on this site. I am learning a lot mostly that I am very ignorant on this subject and that I have many incorrect preconceived notions. Using MDF for the front and rear baffles would allow for a large chamfer on the sides to reduce edge diffraction and a nicely finished speaker. My wife likes the way the MDF looks over the exposed plywood edge. I would still use bb behind the MDF for a thicker front baffle. I keep changing my mind every 2 hours I spend on this sight. Maybe the best thing to do is build the speaker slightly deeper than the drawing, Use 3/4 ply for all but the outside skin of the front baffle. using the extra volume for bracing. Then assemble and listen. If the cabinet is resonate put an outside decorative constrained layer on. I am a little worried that the design will outpace my ability. I have the most recent time on this site reading the discussion on materials thread. Dave how did you convert John?

Ron which cross over are you using?

thanks again both of you for all your help

Ben
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Old 17th November 2012, 11:38 PM   #19
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Quote:
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Dave how did you convert John?
He finally grokked the idea that if you can move the resonances where they will not get excited it is as if they do not exist.

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Old 18th November 2012, 12:02 AM   #20
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I'm using the XO Jimangie designed as in post #44, as redrawn by Dave.
I then tweaked it for my room environment and my crappy ears. That post is later in that same thread.
http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthr...4&page=1&pp=35

, after you build your speakers and XOs, try the tweak that Jackinnj posted about reversing the tweeter polarity. I found it made a BIG difference. Build it straight off the schematic first, then tweak it to YOUR liking. Every room is different, every Amp is different, every ear is different.
Yes, there is an overabundance of information to sort through and learn, that's part of the fun!
Enjoy the process.

Ron

edited: updated XO , Clarity on Seas Thor thread,Post #998 (not the one I'm using) but it's probably better than mine.
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Last edited by Renron; 18th November 2012 at 12:15 AM. Reason: update
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