no doubt that the trans-lam approach (not necessarily restricted to sheet goods, as evidenced by some recent "butcher block" fabrications) allows for functional shapes and aesthetic design features not possible with flat sheet goods, but even with the most efficient nesting CNC routing software, the cut yield is atrocious, nay, criminal I say
- and then there's the assembly and finishing labor window braces - cute Cal - think horizontal roof trusses
Unless you make a fish wall that is.but even with the most efficient nesting CNC routing software, the cut yield is atrocious, nay, criminal I say
There's actually such a thing, not sure how I went that far off track though. It should have been obvious but...well you remember the 60's?
Thank you. I thought you had stopped noticing.
What them Joyce thingees?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1966-THUNDERBIRD-REAR-1-4-WINDOW-BRACES-/110753282993
Really? A pillar here is the same as a post or column. A window brace is either the brackets that support a shelf on the outside of your window for a flower pot or A/C unit or in the case of a car, it's like that part in the link above.
to the best of my knowledge, since i dont drive, over here its a roof pillar, or A-pillar. Something of the like. Just like hood is bonnet. English is a weird language.
Quite. A conveniant diversion from my earlier post, which was quite salient, for once.
I.e. That holey braces in MDF or ply arent worth comparing. Elsewhere in box construction, the strength of ply is valuable.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/222234-anyone-wanna-guess-what-im-building.html
I'm doing a CNC setup with shelf bracing and yes, cut yield is atrocious (the circles were cutoffs from something else, so no waste there).
To get the most of the material I'm planning to make diffusors from the shelf brace cutouts, by simply stacking them and gluing them in hills and valleys. Not a Skyline but should be quite effective. The cutouts for the non-braced sections will be saved and re-cut into another translam enclosure shape, so I should wind up with somewhere around 50% overall material efficiency from the starting point of circles.
Ah ha! A guitar or bass cabinet has a very different set of goals than a home/studio speaker/monitor.
With the guitar speaker it's purpose is not to accurately reproduce a recording whereas that is the purpose of the other speakers.
I suppose with a bass speaker, you may have the issue that you wish to achieve better lf output by having a stiff cabinet.
High mass is not a myth. If you want to reduce transmission of sound through a wall, you'll need mass. The more, the better. The problem in speaker design is how to achieve the higher mass. Simply increasing the thickness of the material will make the panel much more stiffer (thickness^3) than heavier, therefor raising both resonance frequency* and Q.
If it is less stiff it will store less energy.
As I've been reading up on box materials I realise that our posts, mine included, have drifted to the 'MDF vs ply vs blah blah blah for cabinet construction discussion' rather than the original topic of 'bracing material?'
(BTW blah blah blah is vastly superior material to both ply & mdf as is infinitely stiff & infinitely dense. Finding a stockist on the other hand is improbable)
Now back to studio for our scheduled program!!
(BTW blah blah blah is vastly superior material to both ply & mdf as is infinitely stiff & infinitely dense. Finding a stockist on the other hand is improbable
)Now back to studio for our scheduled program!!
do you mean it would look like a cross from the left or right hand sides?
Ideally they should be unevenly spaced otherwise your creating a set of smaller vibrating panels.
As all the movement & energy in a box comes from the driver, bracing the driver against the back panel and ideally the top and bottom with a holey brace is a very good place to start. You could then run dowel braces across the cabinet thru the holes!
Ideally they should be unevenly spaced otherwise your creating a set of smaller vibrating panels.
As all the movement & energy in a box comes from the driver, bracing the driver against the back panel and ideally the top and bottom with a holey brace is a very good place to start. You could then run dowel braces across the cabinet thru the holes!
Yes, but it could be offset if necessary. It seems that it would tie in the top and bottom of the cabinet as well and keep the horizontal braces from being floppy.
the cabinet is vibrating because of the driver. No driver, no vibrations, no need to brace.
Sink the vibrations direct from the driver into several panels and the energy is shared/divided amongst them. You reduce the amount of energy that gets channeled into the faceplate (which is the most susceptible as it holds the driver) which in turn vibrates and distorts the drivers output further.
Dump that energy in the most efficient way you can and the panels require less bracing
Sink the vibrations direct from the driver into several panels and the energy is shared/divided amongst them. You reduce the amount of energy that gets channeled into the faceplate (which is the most susceptible as it holds the driver) which in turn vibrates and distorts the drivers output further.
Dump that energy in the most efficient way you can and the panels require less bracing
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