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#51 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
With the guitar speaker it's purpose is not to accurately reproduce a recording whereas that is the purpose of the other speakers. I suppose with a bass speaker, you may have the issue that you wish to achieve better lf output by having a stiff cabinet. |
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#52 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
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Quote:
Quote:
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#54 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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A good thing AFAIC
dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#55 |
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diyAudio Member
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As I've been reading up on box materials I realise that our posts, mine included, have drifted to the 'MDF vs ply vs blah blah blah for cabinet construction discussion' rather than the original topic of 'bracing material?'
(BTW blah blah blah is vastly superior material to both ply & mdf as is infinitely stiff & infinitely dense. Finding a stockist on the other hand is improbable )Now back to studio for our scheduled program!!
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In the interests of full disclosure JRKO = James Rupert Kingsley Osborne. And yes, my parents will pay for it when I choose their retirement home |
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#56 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
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So how about a horizontal window pane in combination with a vertical window pane that crosses through it creating a cross if viewed from a certain point. This seems like it would be extremely rigid and capture the strength of the ply...
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#57 |
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diyAudio Member
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do you mean it would look like a cross from the left or right hand sides?
Ideally they should be unevenly spaced otherwise your creating a set of smaller vibrating panels. As all the movement & energy in a box comes from the driver, bracing the driver against the back panel and ideally the top and bottom with a holey brace is a very good place to start. You could then run dowel braces across the cabinet thru the holes!
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In the interests of full disclosure JRKO = James Rupert Kingsley Osborne. And yes, my parents will pay for it when I choose their retirement home |
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#58 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
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Yes, but it could be offset if necessary. It seems that it would tie in the top and bottom of the cabinet as well and keep the horizontal braces from being floppy.
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#59 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Birmingham, UK
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Generally it is a good idea to make the bracing from a different material than the cab itself and use a lossy adhesive ie one that does not set solid.
Unevenly spaced is also a good move as JRKO said and to make sure that it is not parallel to the cabinet walls. |
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#60 |
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diyAudio Member
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the cabinet is vibrating because of the driver. No driver, no vibrations, no need to brace.
Sink the vibrations direct from the driver into several panels and the energy is shared/divided amongst them. You reduce the amount of energy that gets channeled into the faceplate (which is the most susceptible as it holds the driver) which in turn vibrates and distorts the drivers output further. Dump that energy in the most efficient way you can and the panels require less bracing
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In the interests of full disclosure JRKO = James Rupert Kingsley Osborne. And yes, my parents will pay for it when I choose their retirement home Last edited by JRKO; 15th November 2012 at 11:06 PM. |
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