Here I will tell the tale of building an active Linkwitz/Riley crossover, board(s) purchased from http://http://www.linkwitzlab.com/crossovers.htm
I bought two boards, intended for for the Pluto+ project on his site.
I will build the entire board(s) (stereo), but may only use them for integrating my existing subwoofer and my 2-way main speakers (2+1).
Here is the support page...
Edit...(link is for owners only)
I already have 2 main speakers (System Audio 1270) and a single active subwoofer (HSU VTF-mk3).
I may venture into building my own 2-way main speakers eventually, but not right now.
I could use the HSU's built-in crossover...but I want to experiment, and listen to what sounds best.
Right now, I am using a DIY built crossover, from plans from Elliot Sound Linkwitz-Riley Electronic Crossover...and I think it sounds great. I built it "point-to-point", with a turn-on delay.
I also have constructed a passive crossover, and I've tried that as well.
I bought two boards, intended for for the Pluto+ project on his site.
I will build the entire board(s) (stereo), but may only use them for integrating my existing subwoofer and my 2-way main speakers (2+1).
Here is the support page...
Edit...(link is for owners only)
I already have 2 main speakers (System Audio 1270) and a single active subwoofer (HSU VTF-mk3).
I may venture into building my own 2-way main speakers eventually, but not right now.
I could use the HSU's built-in crossover...but I want to experiment, and listen to what sounds best.
Right now, I am using a DIY built crossover, from plans from Elliot Sound Linkwitz-Riley Electronic Crossover...and I think it sounds great. I built it "point-to-point", with a turn-on delay.
I also have constructed a passive crossover, and I've tried that as well.
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I have an extensive collection of resistors and capacitors....but still need to order some parts/values as per the Pluto crossover plans.
The most difficult part(s) to obtain are the 2% polypropylene caps. I assume they need to be 2% to gain the board's filter accuracy. Digikey does not seem to stock the recommended 0.1uf Panasonic cap variety anymore (P3104-ND), but does have a Vishay part (BC2054-ND) equivalent.
Even though I have a bookshelf of resistor values, I don't have all the correct values, so I will order those too.
Plus there some dedicated "on board" phono connectors and a "midi" type jack to be soldered to the board (though it's easy to wire them "off-board").
The most difficult part(s) to obtain are the 2% polypropylene caps. I assume they need to be 2% to gain the board's filter accuracy. Digikey does not seem to stock the recommended 0.1uf Panasonic cap variety anymore (P3104-ND), but does have a Vishay part (BC2054-ND) equivalent.
Even though I have a bookshelf of resistor values, I don't have all the correct values, so I will order those too.
Plus there some dedicated "on board" phono connectors and a "midi" type jack to be soldered to the board (though it's easy to wire them "off-board").
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