Hello there all you good Folks out there.... Once again I am throwing something out there....
I have an OLD pair of "TANNOY Mercury S" speakers that I bought on an online auction.... They still sound great, the drivers and crossovers are great... BUT the cabinets are quite 'sad'
.... I would like to / have to rebuild the cabinets....
Does someone have a design, plan or sketch of a suitable cabinet, else I am just going to rebuild them as-is, BUT would actually prefer a slightly larger cabinet.... maybe with a bit more bass response. These sound really fresh and clean, so maybe I'll be told to stay with what is proven and works ....
The originals are 17 Liter and are 248 W x 214 D x 498 H .... I don't have the specs for the drivers so I can't supply any Thiele-Small parameters and can't seem to find any either...
Thanks for a great forum and all the response from the selfless contributors to this site...
Many thanks and best to all...
Keith, New Zealand
I have an OLD pair of "TANNOY Mercury S" speakers that I bought on an online auction.... They still sound great, the drivers and crossovers are great... BUT the cabinets are quite 'sad'
.... I would like to / have to rebuild the cabinets....Does someone have a design, plan or sketch of a suitable cabinet, else I am just going to rebuild them as-is, BUT would actually prefer a slightly larger cabinet.... maybe with a bit more bass response. These sound really fresh and clean, so maybe I'll be told to stay with what is proven and works ....
The originals are 17 Liter and are 248 W x 214 D x 498 H .... I don't have the specs for the drivers so I can't supply any Thiele-Small parameters and can't seem to find any either...
Thanks for a great forum and all the response from the selfless contributors to this site...
Many thanks and best to all...
Keith, New Zealand
Jeez, these are always such HOMEWORK problems! I have to look up the flippin' speaker AGAIN!
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I'm quite exhausted already. Bit of panel damping and upgrade any tweeter electrolytics in the crossover with polypropylene I expect. Why do people always want more bass. Are they deaf?
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I'm quite exhausted already. Bit of panel damping and upgrade any tweeter electrolytics in the crossover with polypropylene I expect. Why do people always want more bass. Are they deaf?
Thanks Steve.... YES, if ONLY mine still looked like that, the front panels are fine, but they seem to have been in a very damp environment ( Not difficult in NZ ) and the 'timber' of the cabinets has swollen slightly in places and 'vinyl' looks like it an affliction of sorts and all full of pimples ......
They are great otherwise and don't want them to end up as unloved drivers only.....
Keep well and thanks for your speedy response... By the way I AM slightly industially deaf.... Years of CNC machining does that to one.... ..... Well, being over 60 also adds to the situation...
If you really want bass response, then have a look at these beauties that I built... used some vintage PIONEER PAX A20 drivers... They sound fantastic and a really rich bass, yet not overpowering.... and full and bright mids and highs....
Best to you and yours.... Just love the banter that one gets here...
Keith
...... They are great otherwise and don't want them to end up as unloved drivers only.....
Keep well and thanks for your speedy response... By the way I AM slightly industially deaf.... Years of CNC machining does that to one....
..... Well, being over 60 also adds to the situation... If you really want bass response, then have a look at these beauties that I built... used some vintage PIONEER PAX A20 drivers... They sound fantastic and a really rich bass, yet not overpowering.... and full and bright mids and highs....
Best to you and yours.... Just love the banter that one gets here...
Keith
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Oh yes, it looks like you are quite handy with the woodwork tools!
FWIW, my personal top end only goes to 10-12 kHz these days. I blame too many rock bands in small basement bars. Especially Ducks Deluxe.
I quite liked what this simple Dayton cabinet does in terms of panel bracing. You then line the top, bottom and sides with some rubbery stuff like floor underlay and put a bit of fluffy stuff behind the woofer. All very technical, isn't it?
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Troels Gravesen is rather good on cabinets too. This isn't quite big enough, but I'm feeling lazy today and it gives the idea.
SEAS CURV
FWIW, my personal top end only goes to 10-12 kHz these days. I blame too many rock bands in small basement bars. Especially Ducks Deluxe.
I quite liked what this simple Dayton cabinet does in terms of panel bracing. You then line the top, bottom and sides with some rubbery stuff like floor underlay and put a bit of fluffy stuff behind the woofer. All very technical, isn't it?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Troels Gravesen is rather good on cabinets too. This isn't quite big enough, but I'm feeling lazy today and it gives the idea.
SEAS CURV
Before I head off for the day, it's worth mentioning something that you probably already know. Cabinets work best when constructed in certain ratios internally to avoid too much resonance.
0.68 : 1 : 1.618 is the Golden Ratio style. Particularly easy for 8 litres and 27 litres since the middle dimension is 20cm. and 30 cm. respectively by some quirk of maths. It only starts to overlap about the fifth harmonic of the longest side as a half wavelength, which I seem to recall is about 2 kHz. Maybe one reason why smaller cabinets sound better.
Another well-known one is 0.8 : 1 : 1.25 which I really don't know much about. Never looked at the maths.
0.68 : 1 : 1.618 is the Golden Ratio style. Particularly easy for 8 litres and 27 litres since the middle dimension is 20cm. and 30 cm. respectively by some quirk of maths. It only starts to overlap about the fifth harmonic of the longest side as a half wavelength, which I seem to recall is about 2 kHz. Maybe one reason why smaller cabinets sound better.
Another well-known one is 0.8 : 1 : 1.25 which I really don't know much about. Never looked at the maths.
The Venus used the same components and was 305 x 530 x 260 mm [~30 L net]. For a golden ratio, this equates to ~ 348 x 563 x 215 mm and the woofer would ideally be down 260 mm [o.d.] from the top.
Don't know its tuning, but you could experiment with different lengths of the same diameter vent you currently have to find what sounds best overall to you.
GM
The original cabinet is 250W X 500H X 214D. I make that 19L internally.
Made a typo last night. You spotted it, of course. The "Golden Ratio" cabinet is 0.618 : 1 : 1.618.
Keeping one dimension at approx. 250mm to keep bafflestep about right, it leads to a 10L and a 42L cabinet. Which is a bit annoying and a long way from 16-19 L.
I did find one cabinet on the 0.8 : 1 : 1.25 ratio at 20 litres. This is 250W X 300D X 370H externally on 15mm chipboard.
I don't really know if that's any good, being a bear of small brain, but there it is.
Made a typo last night. You spotted it, of course. The "Golden Ratio" cabinet is 0.618 : 1 : 1.618.
Keeping one dimension at approx. 250mm to keep bafflestep about right, it leads to a 10L and a 42L cabinet. Which is a bit annoying and a long way from 16-19 L.
I did find one cabinet on the 0.8 : 1 : 1.25 ratio at 20 litres. This is 250W X 300D X 370H externally on 15mm chipboard.
I don't really know if that's any good, being a bear of small brain, but there it is.
Hi,
For somewhat deeper and tighter bass you could increase the internal
volume by up to say 30%, re-using the original port (or its dimensions).
Floorstanders with a sand filled section in the bottom probably a good idea.
FWIW the only thing you need to keep is the baffle width and driver layout
at the top of the cabinet. Golden ratio are nice if they work, but if they
don't just ignore them and and use ratios pleasing to the eye.
I really rated the M20 version of the Mercury, a belting budget speaker.
rgds, sreten.
For somewhat deeper and tighter bass you could increase the internal
volume by up to say 30%, re-using the original port (or its dimensions).
Floorstanders with a sand filled section in the bottom probably a good idea.
FWIW the only thing you need to keep is the baffle width and driver layout
at the top of the cabinet. Golden ratio are nice if they work, but if they
don't just ignore them and and use ratios pleasing to the eye.
I really rated the M20 version of the Mercury, a belting budget speaker.
rgds, sreten.
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Thanks Guys, I really appreciate all the input..... Y E S .... I do like the PLUS 30% internal volume idea.... Also the upgrading of the crossover caps etc.....
Busy building something else at the moment.... As you do !!!!! .... I had some very large old cabinets that had some lovely timber.... So these became donors and am building these as I have a quad of VIFA drivers and tweeters 'in stock', have just done new surrounds on the P17 VIFA's
Just so many projects and not enough time..... Work gets in the way of my hobbies ...!!!!!
Cheers and thanks again for all your inputs.... Keith
Busy building something else at the moment.... As you do !!!!!
.... I had some very large old cabinets that had some lovely timber.... So these became donors and am building these as I have a quad of VIFA drivers and tweeters 'in stock', have just done new surrounds on the P17 VIFA'sJust so many projects and not enough time..... Work gets in the way of my hobbies ...!!!!!
Cheers and thanks again for all your inputs.... Keith
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Hi there again Folks.... Here is a related item on another posting....
Hello there Folks, greetings from New Zealand... I have been following with great interest the info and comments about 'FONKEN' speaker cabinets...
Can someone please fill me in on their performance. I build speakers and valve amps as a hobby and like a bit of a challenge, especially when the design is a bit 'out there' and not to the norm...
Also I would like to use the drivers AND tweeters from a OLD pair of 'TANNOY Mercury S' speakers. The only reason for doing this is that I have these speakers in hand and the cabinets are rather 'sad' as the previous owner has let them get damp and the cabinet timber has 'blistered' and looks rather unattractive... They still sound absolutely stunning with drivers in brilliant condition.....
Any and all comments will be gladly accepted and much appreciated...
Thanks to all for all the previous help and input on this great forum...
Very best to all, keep well....
Keith Christchurch, New Zealand
Hello there Folks, greetings from New Zealand... I have been following with great interest the info and comments about 'FONKEN' speaker cabinets...
Can someone please fill me in on their performance. I build speakers and valve amps as a hobby and like a bit of a challenge, especially when the design is a bit 'out there' and not to the norm...
Also I would like to use the drivers AND tweeters from a OLD pair of 'TANNOY Mercury S' speakers. The only reason for doing this is that I have these speakers in hand and the cabinets are rather 'sad' as the previous owner has let them get damp and the cabinet timber has 'blistered' and looks rather unattractive... They still sound absolutely stunning with drivers in brilliant condition.....
Any and all comments will be gladly accepted and much appreciated...
Thanks to all for all the previous help and input on this great forum...
Very best to all, keep well....
Keith Christchurch, New Zealand
Cabinets actually built....
Hello there Folks, I actually built those ML cabinets using some OLD VIFA Drivers and Tweeters. I rebuilt them and even made NEW Domes for the tweeters... So being a Toolmaker does come in very handy some times....
They do sound VERY good and I have just lifted them up by 280mm and tilted them backward a bit. The whole 'stage' seems so much brighter and complete at this new height.
Hello there Folks, I actually built those ML cabinets using some OLD VIFA Drivers and Tweeters. I rebuilt them and even made NEW Domes for the tweeters... So being a Toolmaker does come in very handy some times....
They do sound VERY good and I have just lifted them up by 280mm and tilted them backward a bit. The whole 'stage' seems so much brighter and complete at this new height.
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