Large pieces of uncured wood may be soaked in a solution of polyethylene glycol 1000 to stabilize it. That requires time. It also takes the life out of the wood. It renders the nature of the wood into something less pleasing to look at. Just sayin', not recommending.
Getting it turned requires drawings first....Have you got the profile to work from? Then finding the turner who has a lathe large enough for the project. I may be at your service...
Gluing suitably sized pieces of dry (6-8% MC) is an option if your aesthetics allow. It would be quicker.
Is this what you want? If so, One would need to swing about 13" over the bed.
The throat would need to be full section above the driver mount to maintain enough strength. Said another way: There would be no reduction in x-section as there is in the fiberglass rendering.
http://www.horns.pl/jmlc600.html
Getting it turned requires drawings first....Have you got the profile to work from? Then finding the turner who has a lathe large enough for the project. I may be at your service...
Gluing suitably sized pieces of dry (6-8% MC) is an option if your aesthetics allow. It would be quicker.
Is this what you want? If so, One would need to swing about 13" over the bed.
The throat would need to be full section above the driver mount to maintain enough strength. Said another way: There would be no reduction in x-section as there is in the fiberglass rendering.http://www.horns.pl/jmlc600.html
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Last edited:
Ok, I was not precise because it's just preliminary market research The "slab" would be glued 2"-3" pieces of a ....well slabs. This shouldd prevent cracking but if it happens , that's the nature of wood and wood filler was invented for it. It would be 8 weeks kiln dried lumber to 7% of MC. Yes the drawing and cut profile would be provided (maybe even all the numbers for CNC from Volvotreter site). The driver would be crossed at 2-3Khz so the exact cut-off for the horn is still in question. I just wonder if somebody here is doing that and would be willing to get it done for reasonable money .
The "slab" would be glued 2"-3" pieces of a ....well slabs. This shouldd prevent cracking but if it happens , that's the nature of wood and wood filler was invented for it. It would be 8 weeks kiln dried lumber to 7% of MC. Yes the drawing and cut profile would be provided (maybe even all the numbers for CNC from Volvotreter site). The driver would be crossed at 2-3Khz so the exact cut-off for the horn is still in question. I just wonder if somebody here is doing that and would be willing to get it done for reasonable money .
Last edited:
I havent had any problems with cracking or splits on my waveguides, just use seasoned wood, using cross laminated pieces would probably reduce the risk further, remember to seal the pores afterwards and be sensible about wall thickness (i.e. not paper thin).
I really think filler would spoil a nice wood. As for the finish, I guess a CNC'd piece of wood will need plenty of sanding afterwards and a sanded finnish just isnt as good as a clean cut for bringing out the natural grain of timber, which is why cabinet makers use cabinet scrapers and not sand paper.
Laurence
I really think filler would spoil a nice wood. As for the finish, I guess a CNC'd piece of wood will need plenty of sanding afterwards and a sanded finnish just isnt as good as a clean cut for bringing out the natural grain of timber, which is why cabinet makers use cabinet scrapers and not sand paper.
Laurence
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.