I've done this a few times; it seems to work well and meets all my criteria:
* Easy
* Low cost
* Could take extra time
Recipe: Simple - pick up Spray 77 at Home Depot, tape edges, spray and add sand. Let each application dry 12 hours.
This pic has 4 "coats"
Be careful with the glue, it's got a real kick to it
* Easy
* Low cost
* Could take extra time
Recipe: Simple - pick up Spray 77 at Home Depot, tape edges, spray and add sand. Let each application dry 12 hours.
This pic has 4 "coats"
Be careful with the glue, it's got a real kick to it
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So, this lowers both the panel resonance frequency and the Q.
I would hope a topcoat to seal the sand in, as I would not want it shaking loose and a grain inside my woofer gap. Couple coats of thick latex house paint maybe.
I offer that proper bracing and fill will do better. The only way to tell is two boxes and test.
I would hope a topcoat to seal the sand in, as I would not want it shaking loose and a grain inside my woofer gap. Couple coats of thick latex house paint maybe.
I offer that proper bracing and fill will do better. The only way to tell is two boxes and test.
Yes on multi-layer; this takes 3 - 4 days (5 mins morning/night)
Yes on top coat(s), going to use clear poly.
I do have similar mdf cabinets (left pic) and have done some testing..the sand wall boxes (right pic) are way better. If fact, going to pull the speakers out of the black boxes and move to new sand wall boxes.
The boxes on the right sound great (sand walls), one of my best projects - that's why building more.
Yes on top coat(s), going to use clear poly.
I do have similar mdf cabinets (left pic) and have done some testing..the sand wall boxes (right pic) are way better. If fact, going to pull the speakers out of the black boxes and move to new sand wall boxes.
The boxes on the right sound great (sand walls), one of my best projects - that's why building more.
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I have a friend who does this with plaster of Paris, he mixes it with shredded paper and Bondcrete and coats all the walls to a thickness of about 10mm
I've used bituminous paint mixed with a heavy dose of sand. Seems to work well. The paint is actually water based, so won't get you high, but it does clean up easily. 😉
What kind of paint, Pano? I've got some horns I just built that could use some more damping. This sand and spray adhesive method looks good too.
Quick and Easy
I thought some might like this ploy:
For the port I picked up a 12" drain extension at HD ($2.50) in the plumbing section.
This PCV tube is 1-1/2" OD, all I needed for the hole was a standard 1 -1/2" flat spade bit. It was a good fit; used hot glue to glue it in.
For the next project, might use the flare end of the PVC (which would need a bigger hole)
I thought some might like this ploy:
For the port I picked up a 12" drain extension at HD ($2.50) in the plumbing section.
This PCV tube is 1-1/2" OD, all I needed for the hole was a standard 1 -1/2" flat spade bit. It was a good fit; used hot glue to glue it in.
For the next project, might use the flare end of the PVC (which would need a bigger hole)
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It's a tar paint (bitumen). Black and thick. I was surprised to see it in water base. I think it came from the roofing aisle of a big box hardware store.
Doug's glue and sand should be similar, if not even better. His sand application looks thicker than mine.
yes adequate airing time is required or you run the risk of loosening the glue holding the cone to the surround!
Keep on Trucking
Awkward...did you take pics
I let the solvent base glue dry 12 hours per coat, outside, in the wind/sun.
About 4 hours for the clear poly; It seems fine, don't smell any glue, etc.
Applying oak veneer (cheap stuff-ebay) so thin can't sand it. Just just using yellow glue, weights, razor knife to apply it.
Awkward...did you take pics
I let the solvent base glue dry 12 hours per coat, outside, in the wind/sun.
About 4 hours for the clear poly; It seems fine, don't smell any glue, etc.
Applying oak veneer (cheap stuff-ebay) so thin can't sand it. Just just using yellow glue, weights, razor knife to apply it.
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Its Official - no difference Plywood and MDF
Well none that I could tell anyway. The darker wood boxes are MDF, the Oak boxes are plywood, both have "sand walls" everything else is the same.
I've been building these out of parts that were stored in boxes, so they all have been low cost projects. I'd buy some new woofers if I could find better one(s).
I'm sure they are out there, I just know where to start (these have really cool bass). [Peerless woofers shown]
The Vifa tweeters are pretty nice, probably the best of the tweeters in the $30 range.
Well none that I could tell anyway. The darker wood boxes are MDF, the Oak boxes are plywood, both have "sand walls" everything else is the same.
I've been building these out of parts that were stored in boxes, so they all have been low cost projects. I'd buy some new woofers if I could find better one(s).
I'm sure they are out there, I just know where to start (these have really cool bass). [Peerless woofers shown]
The Vifa tweeters are pretty nice, probably the best of the tweeters in the $30 range.
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Just curious. Has anyone ever tried this with #12 lead shot? It is lead ball for shotshells and you can buy it here.
BPI Lead Shot #12 10 lb Bag
1.25 mm diameter (0,05 inch) but quite pricey for a 10 lb (4.54 kg) bag at US $44.
What do you all think? If one were willing to spend the money do you think it would make a difference?
BPI Lead Shot #12 10 lb Bag
1.25 mm diameter (0,05 inch) but quite pricey for a 10 lb (4.54 kg) bag at US $44.
What do you all think? If one were willing to spend the money do you think it would make a difference?
you know..I tried lead in similar boxes - 1" mdf with sheet lead. The sand works a whole lot better.
I thought lead shot was banned. Most shot is steel.
Anyway, I think this is expending great efforts on things that are not the biggest problem. Just my experience, but I never found that dime under the streetlight just because the light was better.
The solvent glue fumed for weeks! My current build uses 4 layers of stone chipped roofing felt, held on with LOTS of bitumen emulsion and nails or screws, depending on hammer access. Allowed to dry for a few hours, they can be brought indoors to be worked on. Much of the work has to be done in my living room; and yes, I AM married.Awkward...did you take pics
I let the solvent base glue dry 12 hours per coat, outside, in the wind/sun.
About 4 hours for the clear poly; It seems fine, don't smell any glue, etc.
Applying oak veneer (cheap stuff-ebay) so thin can't sand it. Just just using yellow glue, weights, razor knife to apply it.
These are isobarics, crossing over (actively) at 134Hz/24dB octave,.
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