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#51 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Wisconsin
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Quote:
edit... the boards are obviously not cupped, I should have said the grain "wants to cup" Last edited by Josephjcole; 11th October 2012 at 08:41 PM. |
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#52 | |
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Speakerholic
diyAudio Moderator
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#53 | |
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Speakerholic
diyAudio Moderator
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#54 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: The Dells, WI
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This is all academic IMO however. It's of greater concern with table tops and other "free" formed/floating designs. A four sided case will have joinery at every corner. Mid span warpage can be managed with interior bracing ... but the bracing cannot be glued across the grain. Rather, you'd attach the brace with screws that have washers under the heads. The holes in the brace(s) are drilled over sized so the panel can move over the brace without the screws limiting panel movement. In the design of a case like this I'd favor good overall grain match over anything else. I'd go for the full 8" width here. One thing I never do is pre-plane any wood for future use. If you have access to the mill or a friend with a thickness planer, you're better off buying the wood rough sawn and having it planed to dimension when your ready to build it. Kiln dried wood is fine but all woods, after the kiln are subject to climate. The surfaces will take on moisture once again. If you delay surfacing as far as possible, you're removing that affected surface and a potential problem with it. You have no control over a suppliers storage arrangements. |
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#55 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Wisconsin
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#56 |
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diyAudio Member
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Cal, my geography knowledge is poor, but the canadian climate i experienced (montreal) was significantly cooler in winter, and better summers to boot.
Joseph, that pic illustrates it as well as possible, and that is what i was trying, poorly, to convey. Thank you. Puppet and joeseph, you guys sum up perfectly the quandry i have. To match grain character, or not. Strangely, i was going to brace perpendicular to the grain, at least in the top and bottom panels, as i was considering a vertical windowed brace. Maybe a re-think of that strategy is required. I have alot to consider, ply would be easier, but not as satisfying. Thanks again.
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It still amazes me every time I get something right Last edited by mondogenerator; 12th October 2012 at 07:16 AM. |
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#57 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Montreal is 3 time zones to the East. The other end of Canada is 4 1/2 time zones away. dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#58 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
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I've started working with solid timber. If your willing to have floating front and back panels you can use solid timber on all faces.
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#59 |
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diyAudio Member
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Dave, haha yeah i think posties must have warmer blood than I! Im an islander and i forget the size of the NA continent (family historical origin is Portsmouth and Isle of Wight, both tiny islands)
Gooki, i was planning to use ply front and rear panels, glued with silicone sealant to allow some flex, as i normally do to gasket the drivers. Whether this would be free floating enough i could only speculate. Great looking cabs! New A6P? I have some original A6s that NEED cabs that gorgeous!
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It still amazes me every time I get something right Last edited by mondogenerator; 12th October 2012 at 09:25 AM. |
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#60 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
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If you run the grain correctly on the sides, top an bottom you should be able to glue a ply front and rear panel directly using normal wood glues (pva, or polyurethane).
Here some more pics of my cabs. And yip new AP6, marvellous sounding drivers. A couple of Alpair 6 builds. |
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