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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
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Auricap XO... price is high.
Plus I need to combine 2 caps to get value required. But why is this so important to put expensive capacitor on tweeter ... ? |
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#12 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
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Quote:
Other caps you must combine - C5: 1.5+1.5 in parallel, C4: standart value 15uF, C3: 10uF 2pcs sequientially. Could be not such expensive.
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Auricap XO, Mundorf capacitors, coils, MSolder, terminals, DH-Labs interconnect & speaker cables, internal wiring for DIY & upgrades are here: www.audiohobby.eu |
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
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voxxonline, I don't want to worry you, because I might have misunderstood this, but is this a reputable design?
I just looked at those notches. The one on the bass makes sense. It is a 4.8kHz one to deal with a cone resonance on the SEAS ER18NX: http://www.seas.no/index.php?option=...111&Itemid=133 But I can't make sense of either of the tweeter notches for the SEAS H1499-06 27TBCD/GB-DXT: H1499-06 27TBCD/GB-DXT These operate at 1.6kHz and about 6kHz. That makes no sense for a tweeter with a Fs of 900Hz and no obvious nasties. Check it yourself: Alan Yates' Laboratory - VK2ZAY's Engineering Calculators - LCR Resonance
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Good Night, and Good Luck. Best regards from Steve in Portsmouth, UK. |
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
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I am building er18dxt ported two way speaker.
Cannot comment design qualities, I m just following guidelines |
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#15 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
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Well, it's an odd design for sure.
The Seas ER18DXT ported two way He seems to have a bee in his bonnet about a smooth power curve, enough to throw away most established ideas about equalising the tweeter Fs resonance on a low order design. IMO, a third order filter achieves much the same thing as this tweeter filter even if properly executed, but hey. ![]() http://www.seas.no/index.php?option=...274&Itemid=248
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Good Night, and Good Luck. Best regards from Steve in Portsmouth, UK. |
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#16 |
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diyAudio Member
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Confused dot com. I still can cancel my part from europe audio, but I did extensive research on what to build, and this one was highly favoured...
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#17 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
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Well, I don't know what you're going to do, my friend.
IMO, it's a rubbish design. He's just thrown a couple of random notches at the tweeter to get the frequency response flat. Really C4 should be around 50uF to hit 900Hz. ![]() The bass, I like: Sample projects But I could be wrong. And I expect you could fit the SEAS Idunn tweeter filter anyway.
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Good Night, and Good Luck. Best regards from Steve in Portsmouth, UK. |
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#18 |
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diyAudio Member
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Will see what to do tomorrow.
But its weird. This design is mentioned even by Zaph as a better alternative to his SR 71... If I ll find more facts about fault in this design, will switch to my back up Troels design... or maybe something else. |
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#19 |
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diyAudio Member
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Not sure, but I think Markk explains something about it here...
Need ideas for 6.5 or 7 inch mid/bass in a 2 way system. |
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#20 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
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There is one prooven design which repeated many times, it uses same CA18ERX, but different tweeter from Seas - 27TDC . Crossover schematics is more simple, without notches (2 coils, 2 caps and 2 resistors only).
Will try to find a link, do not remenber where I saved it. Added: Here is the link to project: Optima SE schematics from there: ![]() Cabinet: ![]() you can play with form of it - just keep clear internal volume ~15l (take in account, that crossover parts used there are quite big) and port tuning for 45Hz and front panel width. Here is discussion on russian DIY forum about this construction: Optima SE You can see some pictures there
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Auricap XO, Mundorf capacitors, coils, MSolder, terminals, DH-Labs interconnect & speaker cables, internal wiring for DIY & upgrades are here: www.audiohobby.eu Last edited by xjr100; 30th September 2012 at 09:11 PM. Reason: added links |
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