Possible not but the intention was to go baffless, I bought them before deciding to go OB. In hinsight I probably gone with different drivers. There is nothing wrong with them just limited in this application.
Just EQ it flat to 200Hz. I don't think excursion will be a problem at 200Hz
Im not concerned about the excursion it just lacks oomph... If I turn off the 18" so it just rolls the 12MUs off at 300hz they sound tinny like trying to play bass through a portable transitor radio speaker from the 70's. It is fine up higher it just has no depth in the bass.
It may measure up ok and have SPL, but they have no real substance to the voices or bass down lower.
They are designed for sealed enclosure and I am using them for the exact opposite of that, no baffle at all.
If I was planning on running them in a baffle I would consider using them lower, as I would get some dB reinforcement from the baffle, but I am taking a leaf out of StigEriks book and planning to run them baffless.
I have no problems with running a separate mid woofer as I already have a 4 way active xover so nothing stop me going 4 way and separate .1 channel for subs.
I have no problems with running a separate mid woofer as I already have a 4 way active xover so nothing stop me going 4 way and separate .1 channel for subs.
That is what I envisage using for a mid-woofer something like that... There are lots of decent options in the 8-10" range I just need to sort through them and find something that is OB friendly.
That driver drops off about 6 dB between 100 and a 1000hz so would need something a lot flatter through that range.
Looking for something fairly flat and about 93-95db
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You keep talking about it sounding thin.....dude, you gotta go step by step before making too many subjective decisions. I think you are having these quick listens and then become discouraged and want to buy more or change you mind or regret a purchase. These things take time and you have the added difficulty of trying to figure it all out on the fly. I spent literal years learning, absorbing and doing research before I ever bought a driver for my OB project and even then I took another year just to buy single drivers for measuring and auditioning.
You HAVE to measure what the drivers are doing free air in the intended configuration, THEN EQ back to closer to flat and only then can go have a listen for the sound quality. You keep putting the horse before the cart. Like I mentioned pages ago, slow down and be methodical about this. You will be able to make some great sound. Those mids might be a little taxed being full nude and run down to meet the 5100, but start there and see what you get. If it can't work out, then buy a midbass filler OR try a baffle. This is easy to try, since you not making full cabinets. Don't throw away the possibility of a baffle to hold the Scans. Full nude is not the ONLY way to go, just one possibility.
Greg
You HAVE to measure what the drivers are doing free air in the intended configuration, THEN EQ back to closer to flat and only then can go have a listen for the sound quality. You keep putting the horse before the cart. Like I mentioned pages ago, slow down and be methodical about this. You will be able to make some great sound. Those mids might be a little taxed being full nude and run down to meet the 5100, but start there and see what you get. If it can't work out, then buy a midbass filler OR try a baffle. This is easy to try, since you not making full cabinets. Don't throw away the possibility of a baffle to hold the Scans. Full nude is not the ONLY way to go, just one possibility.
Greg
Mount them on 10" wood circles, EQ them flat then listen.
If you are still not happy then here is another option JA-8008 HES - Jantzen 8 inch High-Efficiency Speaker - Europe Audio
Here we go:
Your TSP have been measured with the VCs in parallel. But they did not state Lvc for the parallel case. I applied Lvc=0.125 mH.
Note that the applied power is tenfold for each case! I just tried to have the same SPL at 30 Hz and around 60 Hz as for the Goldwood. You can easily see why MJK has preferred the Goldwood.
I believe it becomes obvious why you need that 20 Hz highpass in this case.
Rudolf
Thanks Rudolf they do seem to have omitted certain data.
I stay in non forum contact with a guy who has been building speakers for a few decade now for a living. I sent him 4 of the 12MUs to evaluate since he hadn't tried them yet here is his response...
"I had a listen to your 12MUs and compared these to 15W8535 both in an open baffle configuration last week end and must say even though the 12MUs have plenty of detail all way through the band, just lack dynamic range and WOW factor with depth on vocals with music and movies . The 15W8535 on the other hand was a was smooth but detailed and my choice I ran both speakers either full range of with a 0.47 mH inductor in series to roll off the top end gently and still allow detail for evaluation, this improves the balance of sound.
For 12U I recommend sealed enclosure with a good quality 8" or 6" Woofer or Mid Bass in a 3way loudspeaker with the RAAL 140 or 70-10 for the top end rather than try an adapt 12MU to with a larger woofer, A smaller diameter Woofer will improve the sound stage and coupling with 12Mu ."
I spoke with him by phone and said my findings were the same as his and that I had already decided that it was too big of a jump to a big woofer.
So its not only my listening impression it is also one of someone who has been in the industry for decades.
I stay in non forum contact with a guy who has been building speakers for a few decade now for a living. I sent him 4 of the 12MUs to evaluate since he hadn't tried them yet here is his response...
"I had a listen to your 12MUs and compared these to 15W8535 both in an open baffle configuration last week end and must say even though the 12MUs have plenty of detail all way through the band, just lack dynamic range and WOW factor with depth on vocals with music and movies . The 15W8535 on the other hand was a was smooth but detailed and my choice I ran both speakers either full range of with a 0.47 mH inductor in series to roll off the top end gently and still allow detail for evaluation, this improves the balance of sound.
For 12U I recommend sealed enclosure with a good quality 8" or 6" Woofer or Mid Bass in a 3way loudspeaker with the RAAL 140 or 70-10 for the top end rather than try an adapt 12MU to with a larger woofer, A smaller diameter Woofer will improve the sound stage and coupling with 12Mu ."
I spoke with him by phone and said my findings were the same as his and that I had already decided that it was too big of a jump to a big woofer.
So its not only my listening impression it is also one of someone who has been in the industry for decades.
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