Hi,
I've read and been told here that ideally to make my own speakers I need good measurement equipment - software, soundcard, microphone.
I'm assuming that I could use the free to use software on the net, but what about a soundcard, is this just a "normal" soundcard, with microphone input, or does it have to be something more fancy?
Also, how exactly do you calibrate a microphone?
Thanks
I've read and been told here that ideally to make my own speakers I need good measurement equipment - software, soundcard, microphone.
I'm assuming that I could use the free to use software on the net, but what about a soundcard, is this just a "normal" soundcard, with microphone input, or does it have to be something more fancy?
Also, how exactly do you calibrate a microphone?
Thanks
There is actually quite a bit on this subject throughout the forum. A good search should turn up dozens of posts.
A decent soundcard, a mic and mic preamp, some software like ARTA and HOLMImpluse.
For impedance you can build your own measurement jig, or use the WT2 or WT3.
Some mics come calibrated, or there are services to do it for you.
A decent soundcard, a mic and mic preamp, some software like ARTA and HOLMImpluse.
For impedance you can build your own measurement jig, or use the WT2 or WT3.
Some mics come calibrated, or there are services to do it for you.
Thanks for the replies
Another question, what is WT2 / WT3?
I did try and do a search first, but it threw up loads of posts about other topics, so I thought the search engine, has only found key words in paragraphs about something else. Perhaps a "sticky" topic could be base, explaining the basic for beginners, notice there is one for designing without measurements!
Another question, what is WT2 / WT3?
I did try and do a search first, but it threw up loads of posts about other topics, so I thought the search engine, has only found key words in paragraphs about something else. Perhaps a "sticky" topic could be base, explaining the basic for beginners, notice there is one for designing without measurements!
I wrote a tutorial on making quasi-anechoic frequency response measurements with ARTA. I highly recommend this software, and there is a fully functional free version.
On the first page of the tutorial I list some of the equipment involved. There are lots of good soundcards out there today. You need one that has inputs and outputs, and can do full duplex (send output while reading input at the same time). I use a M-Audio Firewire 410, which has 96k Hz sampling and a built in mic preamp. You can find them on the cheap on Ebay.
Here is the link to the tutorial:
audio.claub.net/tutorials/FR measurement using ARTA.pdf
-Charlie
On the first page of the tutorial I list some of the equipment involved. There are lots of good soundcards out there today. You need one that has inputs and outputs, and can do full duplex (send output while reading input at the same time). I use a M-Audio Firewire 410, which has 96k Hz sampling and a built in mic preamp. You can find them on the cheap on Ebay.
Here is the link to the tutorial:
audio.claub.net/tutorials/FR measurement using ARTA.pdf
-Charlie
What card to use depends on microphone. If you will use something like ECM8000, then you need phantome power - few cards have it.
If rememeber, there were options to buy calibrated microphone_ but it is not cheap.
Very simple solution is SB Live24 USB - it works fine with Panasonic Capsule WB61 without any additional electronics - you can build your own measurement microphone with just capsule and tube.
If you have a laptop with a built in microphone you may be able to make meaurements now without spending a penny. These will obviously be poor quality measurements but would enable you to understand what is going on and where spending money would be a benefit.
For about £40 a reasonable electret microphone with a calibration file can be bought here:
https://www.intertechnik.de/Shop/Accessories/Software-Measurements/_70303_E2-EMM6_1768,en,220,96423
However, it will need a power supply, a microphone preamplifier, an analogue to digital converter and a computer interfaces such as USB. Some mixers can provide this for about £35 such as:
Behringer Xenyx 302 USB Mixer & Audio Interface at Gear4Music.com
You will also need an appropriate microphone cable for about £5-£10 and, perhaps, a microphone stand for £10-£15.
This is around the cheapest you can get away with but it may make sense to spend more depending on what else you might want to do with the hardware.
Thanks for the advice guys. Andy19191, I 'll probably go down your route, as for a first time project, I don't want to spend a fortune, in case I find it isn't for me.
have any of you noticed any measurable difference between a brand new set of drivers and a pair that has broken in. When listening to a new pair of speakers, I always find that at first, although the basics sound signature is there, they can sound quite constrained and tend to open up dynamically once broken in.
With my current speakers, I ran them out of phase facing each other using a system burn in type disc for about 24 hours, over three days. After this they really opened up.
Any of you bother doing the same with your drivers, before measuring, or are they already broken in the time you come to tweaking the crossover?
have any of you noticed any measurable difference between a brand new set of drivers and a pair that has broken in. When listening to a new pair of speakers, I always find that at first, although the basics sound signature is there, they can sound quite constrained and tend to open up dynamically once broken in.
With my current speakers, I ran them out of phase facing each other using a system burn in type disc for about 24 hours, over three days. After this they really opened up.
Any of you bother doing the same with your drivers, before measuring, or are they already broken in the time you come to tweaking the crossover?
sometimesuk, take a look on this manual:
http://www.ijdata.com/justMLS%20manual.pdf
It is commercial software, but gives basics on how to measure drivers/speakers.
Calibtated microphone is very important - this tool is for sure must be reliable, as in process of designing you will have lot of listening tests and analysis comparing what you hear and what are the results.
I have 2 ECM8000, both calibrated, but calibration files differs in some freqs upto 3db! It is important, if you really want to get the result.
If it is for "time spending" then go for simple solution - SB Live24 USB from eBay for 10£ and WM61 capsule for 2£. WM61 is better to buy from reliable source, not from eBay, as there many fakes. Here is sample drawing how it could be: http://diy-audio.narod.ru/audio/mic/meas-mic.PNG
At least it will be tool for beginning, you can start learning how it works, and for fine-tuning maybe you will buy good calibrated microphone + soundcard for 500-700£
http://www.ijdata.com/justMLS%20manual.pdf
It is commercial software, but gives basics on how to measure drivers/speakers.
Calibtated microphone is very important - this tool is for sure must be reliable, as in process of designing you will have lot of listening tests and analysis comparing what you hear and what are the results.
I have 2 ECM8000, both calibrated, but calibration files differs in some freqs upto 3db! It is important, if you really want to get the result.
If it is for "time spending" then go for simple solution - SB Live24 USB from eBay for 10£ and WM61 capsule for 2£. WM61 is better to buy from reliable source, not from eBay, as there many fakes. Here is sample drawing how it could be: http://diy-audio.narod.ru/audio/mic/meas-mic.PNG
At least it will be tool for beginning, you can start learning how it works, and for fine-tuning maybe you will buy good calibrated microphone + soundcard for 500-700£
Here's a link to the REW software/forum mentioned on the SOFSCI page, there's a lot of advice there on setting things up.
REW Forum at Home Theater Forum and Systems - HomeTheaterShack.com
Myself, I use the Tascam USB mic preamp:
Tascam US-122MKII - USB 2.0 Computer Audio Interface US-122MKII
and a calibrated EMM-6 mic from Cross Spectrum:
Cross·Spectrum Labs - Sound | Vibration | Engineering
The Tascam is flat enough not to really need calibration, and the EMM-6 beats out the Behringer by a bit. Not sure what import duties might cost you.
I've also had good luck with the simpler HolmImpulse, but the REW software has more features.
HOLM Acoustics
REW Forum at Home Theater Forum and Systems - HomeTheaterShack.com
Myself, I use the Tascam USB mic preamp:
Tascam US-122MKII - USB 2.0 Computer Audio Interface US-122MKII
and a calibrated EMM-6 mic from Cross Spectrum:
Cross·Spectrum Labs - Sound | Vibration | Engineering
The Tascam is flat enough not to really need calibration, and the EMM-6 beats out the Behringer by a bit. Not sure what import duties might cost you.
I've also had good luck with the simpler HolmImpulse, but the REW software has more features.
HOLM Acoustics
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