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#41 |
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diyAudio Member
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Thanks tinitus. What weight represents a light cone?
The 12inch Beyma 12MI100 with Qts of 0.22 & 100dB/W@1m has an mms of 0.047Kg an fs of 58Hz. The 12inch Dayton SD315-88 with Qts of 0.34 & 94dB/W@1m has an mms of 0.109Kg and an fs of 26.9Hz The 15inch Dayton DVC385-88 with Qts of 0.36 & 90dB/W@1m has an mms of 0.297Kg and an fs of 19Hz The 15inch Beyma 15MI100 with Qts of 0.28 & 101dB/W@1m has an mms of 0.072Kg and an fs of 48Hz So the Dayton's win hands down for the given data?
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In the interests of full disclosure JRKO = James Rupert Kingsley Osborne. And yes, my parents will pay for it when I choose their retirement home |
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#42 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Kimberley, South-Africa
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Hi guys
I'd like to come in from the left field with my suggestion. ![]() Bass: two AE Speakers 15'' bass drivers (TD15S or TD15X, maybe), or 12'' if you really can't fit the 15''-ers. Me, I'd go 15'' just for the sheer effortlessness. Mids: either DC Gold Audio 6x9'' or 9.5'' from their Reference line. These have good dispersion high up, so not only do they sound good, but they simplify the XO design Tweeter: LCY K100, with XO anywhere equal to or above 7kHz (the DC Gold units will handle this very easily) Layout similar to JBLs, but with the mid slighly offset to one side (mirror-imaged). If you want big, effortless and reasonably high efficiency (with the 9.5'' the eff will be circa 95dB/w). Just an idea. ![]() Enjoy, Deon |
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#43 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
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Quote:
Oh, and some FTW21 for the subs. |
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#44 |
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diyAudio Member
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The TD15? look nice but are £382 a pair before shipping to the UK (£120ish insured) and the import taxes (£100) so £602 for a pair
![]() Drivers need to be easily available in the UK or Europe at farthest to make the cost more viable (% transport cost to driver cost - ie 58% of above driver cost is getting it here) I've used both Bluearan.co.uk and europe-audio.com . They stock: SoundLab Monacor Eminence Fane Alto IMG Stage Line Celestion P Audio Beyma Precision Devices Faital Pro B&C Dayton Peerless TB Visaton
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In the interests of full disclosure JRKO = James Rupert Kingsley Osborne. And yes, my parents will pay for it when I choose their retirement home |
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#45 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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The main question is - how big? How big a box or baffle can you stand? That's the limiting factor. And can you get away from the walls, or do you want a corner unit?
Two high Q 18s on open baffle are tighter than I would have ever thought. Four 18s don't have to move much to fill a medium size room. |
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#46 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Kungsbacka on the Swedish westcoast
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Ingvar |
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#47 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Kimberley, South-Africa
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Quote:
Quote:
Enjoy, Deon PS. Don't throw the DC Gold units away because they're less well known. These drivers have replaced some seriouisly well regarded drivers in some systems, and quite a few people swear by them.
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#49 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2010
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If you can settle for an f3 of 35 Hz or so the JBL 2226H is a driver that's hard to beat - though also a bit expensive....
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#50 |
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diyAudio Member
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Maximum I could go is 850mm wide x 500mm deep x 1400mm tall - These are max individual dims I CANT USE ALL MAXIMUMS TOGETHER (strangely that works out very near a GR box
) We have a nice unit that is 600mm wide, 480mm deep and 1200mm tall (roughly 12cuft). It seems rather pleasing in its shape although enlarging the shape in width and/or height would still be suitable This design needs to be close to wall in back and/or side - corner placement could be interesting
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In the interests of full disclosure JRKO = James Rupert Kingsley Osborne. And yes, my parents will pay for it when I choose their retirement home |
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