Hi James,
I was away and didn't catch up on your ear damage until now. So sorry for you. I hope the others are right and that patience will pull you through until it repairs itself. I can't believe you are even thinking about audio right now, unless of course it is a type of relief from the other things.
Also sad that things didn't work out right away on the horn front. It did seem awfully ambitious so I hope you aren't letting it bother you too much. I don't think I would have been brave enough to try that. I am having a hard enough time with foam board and a hot glue gun making Cornu copies.
I was away and didn't catch up on your ear damage until now. So sorry for you. I hope the others are right and that patience will pull you through until it repairs itself. I can't believe you are even thinking about audio right now, unless of course it is a type of relief from the other things.
Also sad that things didn't work out right away on the horn front. It did seem awfully ambitious so I hope you aren't letting it bother you too much. I don't think I would have been brave enough to try that. I am having a hard enough time with foam board and a hot glue gun making Cornu copies.
BTW have you seen this little setup?
multicell heaven click on the images to enlarge
I love the multicells as stand alone speakers in their own little cabinets.
multicell heaven click on the images to enlarge
I love the multicells as stand alone speakers in their own little cabinets.
here are a couple of pic ideas for the bass cabs. Its called Shou sugi ban. Heres 2x little video linky:
Shou Sugi Ban being in Japan
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L4CeJIaI5Vg
You can brush and wash it to smooth it out as well if you prefer a smoother look
What do you think as a facia cladding for the bass cab?
Shou Sugi Ban being in Japan
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L4CeJIaI5Vg
You can brush and wash it to smooth it out as well if you prefer a smoother look
What do you think as a facia cladding for the bass cab?
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Hi JRKO,
I tried starting a new thread, but for some reason I have had no takers, so I thought I would just ask you!
I am wanting to do something very similar and was wondering what configuration for the Bass cabinets are you looking at now? Last I saw was that you were going to use faitalpro. But as a bass reflex or onken or something else? Maybe I missed something. If so sorry!
Cheers
A
I tried starting a new thread, but for some reason I have had no takers, so I thought I would just ask you!
I am wanting to do something very similar and was wondering what configuration for the Bass cabinets are you looking at now? Last I saw was that you were going to use faitalpro. But as a bass reflex or onken or something else? Maybe I missed something. If so sorry!
Cheers
A
I also like large drivers and still believe that You cant beat qubic inches.
But, i don´t like x-overs, especially if they´re used in the fundamental voice region, say 300-3kHz.
This means i have to use LF drivers that are very good in the voice area, 10-12" is, in my opinion, the best choice for this.
We still want the fantastic low level dynamics that large drivers deliver, what to do?
First try, turned out really ok, was this:
A tiny litle speaker that actually is allmost a 2-way design, the larger of the round parts is a Beyma 21L50, this ,unfortunately out of production, 21" driver is lowpassed at about 85Hz, the smaller round thing is a Beyma 10G40, only lowpassed at about 3k, firing backwards in what could be regarded as a TQWT but with exponential expansion.
The square thing is a Beyma TPL150, AMT driver, system sensitivity at around 100dB and fantastic low-level dynamics.
It moved furniture at pretty modest levels so the 21" was perhaps a bit too large for our livingroom.
What to do then?
Ingvar
Your speakers are beautiful Ingvar! It's ironic that I saw them because I've been conceptualizing something very similar in appearance. I plan to build a similar set but quite a bit more modest with a tiny 15" woofer, 8" mid and a planar tweeter. Although mine will be a bit smaller, I'll separate the speakers into top and bottom cabinets.
Thanks for posting the pics; it's great to see what I'm shooting for.
I'm aiming to go FaitalPRO | LF Loudspeakers | 15FH500 (because they are £50 cheaper than the 510 each at the moment and still look very good) in a ported 75l cabinet tuned to 45hz that gives me a -3db at 50hz and -9db at 38hz. All info taken from WinISD.
the neo 500 ought to give you a small bit more bass output than the ferrite 510, due to the slightly higher Qts, all else being the same, but maybe only theoretical
looks more like a modified Iwata to me
add rounded solid wood at front edge of top and bottom, and you have it
the construction still does have a few weird angles that tend to be difficult
but it looks cool
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Thats what WinISD shows too. More depth, slightly less snap I'd guess.
510 has a -3db of 63hz when tuned to 52Hz
I will have some control with the miniDSP as well thou
15PR400 behaves similar to the 500 but the QMS is 6 as opposed to 10 (qes & qts are comparable)
Several of those non circular tractrix type horns show up in a google search for tractrix. Only the two vertical sides follow the tractrix curve
510 has a -3db of 63hz when tuned to 52Hz
I will have some control with the miniDSP as well thou
15PR400 behaves similar to the 500 but the QMS is 6 as opposed to 10 (qes & qts are comparable)
Several of those non circular tractrix type horns show up in a google search for tractrix. Only the two vertical sides follow the tractrix curve
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I have to think how to paint the multicells so Mrs JRKO is more approving Gonna be kind of white inside and natural cork outside
this is the only practical idea I can find - How to paint Multicell horns?
Gonna be kind of white inside and natural cork outside this is the only practical idea I can find - How to paint Multicell horns?
hmm, some surfaces will always look slightly scruffy, no matter what you do
maybe best the answer is the kind of 'structural paint' used for PA speakers
but probably best use it only on outher surface, and maybe mouth area
but if she is to the 'antique' look, there might some other options like maybe a stained copper look
leaf gold ? maybe you can get 'leaf copper' too
maybe best the answer is the kind of 'structural paint' used for PA speakers
but probably best use it only on outher surface, and maybe mouth area
but if she is to the 'antique' look, there might some other options like maybe a stained copper look
leaf gold ? maybe you can get 'leaf copper' too
As the 'cells are mdf they should take ok. I kind of like the fill a cell with paint then open the bottom idea. I wonder about spraying them with a primer first?
So long as they look better than plain ole mdf its ok
natural cork is supposed to help with resonance of these non metal 'cell sets
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