Audio porn as requested 
the annular phase plug is funky
A for the horn I'm really not sure. I can get a pair of 8 cell (50cm x 27cm) for £180, The Faital Pro plastic job for £80 a pair, a pair of 400hz Tractrix Horn for £160, or the full JMLC-400 for £380 a pair.
The Faital Pro horns kinda seem a waste of £80, if for just over twice the price I get the multicellular horns. The 8 would be a cool place to start and are good value from what I can see.
decisions decisions.........either way I get the horn
the annular phase plug is funkyA for the horn I'm really not sure. I can get a pair of 8 cell (50cm x 27cm) for £180, The Faital Pro plastic job for £80 a pair, a pair of 400hz Tractrix Horn for £160, or the full JMLC-400 for £380 a pair.
The Faital Pro horns kinda seem a waste of £80, if for just over twice the price I get the multicellular horns. The 8 would be a cool place to start and are good value from what I can see.
decisions decisions.........either way I get the horn
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I would happily try it for that kind of coin, especially when the real thing will set you back well over a thousand dollars, before shipping.Cool phase plug on the Faital.I have noticed that some of the JBL horns compress the entry of the horn, getting smaller before expanding agin. Kinda like the mouthpiece of a real horn. It looks like this phase plug is doing something similar.
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MDF is the a wonderful choice when you want a beautifully smooth, painted finish. Many furniture folks use it over wood for this very reason. wood will sho grain,even when perfectly sanded. I know someone who can tell me exact method for doing so and I can attest to the quality of their products. Ill let you know, if you are interested.
Dont know about the phase plug, but the jbl horns are done that way for loading, I believe. I wonder if Faital just chose to do it internally.
Dont know about the phase plug, but the jbl horns are done that way for loading, I believe. I wonder if Faital just chose to do it internally.
I am leaning that way Pano!
It wasn't so much the finish on the plain MDF as painting the throats etc and the polyester foam filler.
I found a guy who says make up a jig to support the cell uptight with the mouth mount on at the bottom. Paint inside the cells fairly liberally and excess paint will drip thru the mouth and into a paint pot underneath.
As for the polyester foam I guess I could cover it in multiple layers of paper and then paint, or maybe a cheap veneer then paint. I've seen some of these horns with cork over the sides that looks ok
what thinks you?
It wasn't so much the finish on the plain MDF as painting the throats etc and the polyester foam filler.
I found a guy who says make up a jig to support the cell uptight with the mouth mount on at the bottom. Paint inside the cells fairly liberally and excess paint will drip thru the mouth and into a paint pot underneath.
As for the polyester foam I guess I could cover it in multiple layers of paper and then paint, or maybe a cheap veneer then paint. I've seen some of these horns with cork over the sides that looks ok
what thinks you?
Try 2 part Pu foam, living where you do, it should be available from a boat building/composite supplies type place...... the squirty stuff in cans is ok but can leave voids, but is not a patch on the stuff that can be mixed and poured though.
Tis essentially same stuff as surf board blanks are blown from, but minus the 'bleaching agents'.
I've used this stuff for repairing 'Dory' hulls and the odd 'Whaler' windsurf board:
Foams & Core Materials, 2 Part Polyurethane Foam Liquid, - CFS Fibreglass Supplies
Tis essentially same stuff as surf board blanks are blown from, but minus the 'bleaching agents'.
I've used this stuff for repairing 'Dory' hulls and the odd 'Whaler' windsurf board:
Foams & Core Materials, 2 Part Polyurethane Foam Liquid, - CFS Fibreglass Supplies
??? Ideally you need to time align them.
Historically, they had fixed brackets at the two lower mouth corners and a vertically adjustable one attached to a mounting lug cast to the throat adapter, then the whole assembly was mounted to a plywood 'sled' for shipment, mounting to the cab with wood screws once aligned.
GM
Historically, they had fixed brackets at the two lower mouth corners and a vertically adjustable one attached to a mounting lug cast to the throat adapter, then the whole assembly was mounted to a plywood 'sled' for shipment, mounting to the cab with wood screws once aligned.
GM
Ok that makes sense. I was trying to figure out how the heavy front end wouldn't slip over the front.
With the minidsp I can dial in 7.5ms delay (from what I can quickly find) of time alignment. Is that an equal substitute to physically aligning the voice coils? What does 7.5ms equal in physical movement anywho?
With the minidsp I can dial in 7.5ms delay (from what I can quickly find) of time alignment. Is that an equal substitute to physically aligning the voice coils? What does 7.5ms equal in physical movement anywho?
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Don't see why not, the pros and DIYers sometimes have to dial in hundreds [thousands?] of degrees of offset with some tapped horns, stadium, Cinemax, apps, etc..
Depending on who you ask and/or where the location is, the SoS varies a bit, but ~344 m/s is pretty common, so 1 ms = ~34.4 cm x 7.5 = ~258 cm.
Pretty sure your speakers won't be this deep unless the bass bin is a Klipsch corner horn or similar.
GM
Depending on who you ask and/or where the location is, the SoS varies a bit, but ~344 m/s is pretty common, so 1 ms = ~34.4 cm x 7.5 = ~258 cm.
Pretty sure your speakers won't be this deep unless the bass bin is a Klipsch corner horn or similar.
GM
Multi-cells are very truncated horns, so they rapidly flare out, dictating a bit of distance from any reflective boundary if not designed as part of the flare or at least a fast expanding flat baffle.
Short of making foam mouth extensions to allow setting them directly on top of the cabs, some space is needed, though have never seen any hard n' fast rules/math, so I've used the same as would be used for a vent or other truncated duct, i.e. take the horn mouth radius [if round] or the height/2 [if rectangular] x 0.613 to get a 'good enough' distance.
For a 13" high 805, I'd use 13/2 = 6.5*0.613 = ~3.98" min..
GM
Short of making foam mouth extensions to allow setting them directly on top of the cabs, some space is needed, though have never seen any hard n' fast rules/math, so I've used the same as would be used for a vent or other truncated duct, i.e. take the horn mouth radius [if round] or the height/2 [if rectangular] x 0.613 to get a 'good enough' distance.
For a 13" high 805, I'd use 13/2 = 6.5*0.613 = ~3.98" min..
GM
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