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| Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers |
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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
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I thought that the official NS-10 fix was to tape a tissue over the tweeter.
(but Ive been told that the NS-10MC had fixed that issue) http://www.bobhodas.com/tissue.html |
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Salt Lake City
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Yea, the MC verson is not bright sounding by any means. The tissue repair still doesnt take care of the 7db peak. There is that bad midrange glare that the 7db peak causes. I can't believe they didn't fix that too...... Guess at the price they sold them for its hard to do everythng right.....
I'm going to start by just doing the mods to the woofer section of the x-over and see how they sound. I can also get the parts to do that part of the mod locally so I'll pick them up tommrrow. Exactly what is the x-over point on this speaker? Anyone know? Mark |
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Perth, Australia.
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Mark, the first thing that I would do is ditch the factory fitted BP electros and replace with PP versions.
The networks shown in the diagram work, and are required on a lot of speakers. Eric.
__________________
I believe not to believe in any fixed belief system. |
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
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(hijack)
Usekqb, I'm located in Taylorsville and I've visited your store--I was very impressed! I was also astounded at the price tags. (This was before I realized that yes, pro audio gear REALLY IS that expensive to make.) I've built my own sound system for PA use, including a really, REALLY nifty mobile rackmount-ish enclosure, and... I was wondering if you guys are hiring at all? I already have the skills for making those neat custom boxes you guys make... (/hijack) |
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#15 |
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diyAudio Member
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Mark, the crossover on the original NS-10M's were 2000Hz, 12 dB/octave. I think the crossover mod is for the original model and not the later one. Puting a port would not be a good idea as they have been optimised for a sealed enclosure.
If you dislike them, check out the prices these get on eBay. Cheers |
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#16 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Salt Lake City
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What I am going to try before I dump them is to just do the mod for the woofer as thats where they seem to ahve the trouble. I picked up the parts today to do one x-over and I'll give it a try. will report back later on tonight.
Mark |
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#17 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Salt Lake City
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Ok, so I installed the 25 mfd and 12 ohm across the woofer and a good deal of the glare is now gone. Took but a few min. to do! What actual effect this has had on response I don't know, but they are sure more listenable now. I did this first on one speaker and listened to some old mono recordings where the glare was quite annoying. The difference was obvious with one modified and one unmodified playing at the same time, the difference was very apparent.
Mark |
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#18 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: USA
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Mark!
I've always wanted to do that crossover tweak but more important things got in the way. My roommate owns these speakers which we use in the living room system. I always thought they were peaky and papery sounding... not great at all. But being the "commmon" system and all, I don't want to put any of my better stuff out there. I put two coats of dammar on the ns-10 cones, and that helped the peakiness a lot. Sometimes the system actually sounds pretty darned good. I definitely recommend this tweak for the ns-10s. It can really transform them. My tweeters sounded deader with the tissue paper, so I just let that be. I wouldn't put dammar on the tweeter, just the woofer. Still, I don't think the speakers are great. The dammar does make them sound much better, though. Pretty decent for a background listening system. Good luck, KT |
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#19 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Perth, Australia.
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Quote:
Fitting the RC network across the tweeter flattens, sweetens and extends the highs out past hearing range. The RLC network reduces distortion due to operating the tweeter at its resonance frequency. Tuning the RC and RLC networks requires software, soundcard and a jig, bit is very well worthwhile. Eric.
__________________
I believe not to believe in any fixed belief system. |
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#20 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Salt Lake City
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Eric,
I only did half the mod....just across the woofer. Since these are the NS10-M version the mod was only for the original NS10, not the M versions. So I figured I'd get rid of the peak from the woofer anyway..... and it did make a big difference. I wonder what effect that mod would have on the M version tweeter? For what I can get for these on E-Bay, I can buy better components and build another set of small monitors. Mark |
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