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#21 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
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#22 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Md
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angles bad. Radius good.
Remember, the OP is doing an art/design project. He is not building speakers just to get a pair of speakers. Let him chew on these ideas a bit and see what ideas he comes up with. |
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#23 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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At the other end of the bench, i think MDF is an unsuitablematerial for making (good) speaker boxes. Al's suggestion of solid is good, this kind of construction eliminates many of the downsides of solid. To get any real advantage the deltas of internal dimensions will need to be considerably larger and the outside should be smooth.
dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#24 |
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Audio Eng. Student
diyAudio Member
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Did I see a layered MDF cabinet design on Jordan's website a couple of years ago? Believe so. Could be made quite the bomb design-wise. Inexpensive, certainly. You could probably pick up some on the curb on "large item" trash days...
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It's easy to be easy when you're easy |
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#25 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Maryland USA
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@ talaerts
Really like this idea for a school/Art project (looks like an A to me). Might be able to talk the guy at HD to make the cuts/rips (go early before they get busy) Never did say anything about the drivers, check local Pawn shops, they have speakers stacked to the ceiling. You can cannibalize the parts and copy the internal volume. Look for a scratched up pair; tell them its a school project, they'll give you a deal. ![]() |
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#26 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
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#27 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Maryland USA
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A lot of theories out there morgoe. I feel that the back wave needs to expand and dampened at the same time. Pic of ongoing build ~
AND keep the front/face baffle board small. Rounding the front edges sounds good to me, and have also been doing that recently. Last edited by ODougbo; 18th September 2012 at 09:54 AM. |
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#28 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Quote:
Hi, Well the original idea won't really work with the major internal standing waves so back to stuffing a sealed box and stuffing lining a vented box. (And a pig to get to look nice.) Externally the shape of the box affects its diffraction signature. Internally the airspace loads the bass, simply as in sealed, more complicated in vented, and further more complicated in TLs, MLTLs, ExMLTLs/horns. You also have cabinet vibration to consider and internal midrange damping. Then of course is the nitty/gritty details of driver selection and x/o design. The theory is really about what floats your boat and what your trying to achieve, but you need a least a technically solid theme for the design. rgds, sreten.
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There is nothing so practical as a really good theory - Ludwig Boltzmann When your only tool is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail - Abraham Maslow |
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#29 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
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Sorry for the delay, I've been busy.
I spoke to my teacher, and he dug the design. He suggested rings, which I think someone else here brought up. Rings would make it easier to do a spherical/cylindrical design. I'm just wondering if using rings instead of little blocks will force me back to using MDF again? If not, then we're good. If it would, then would splitting the rings up (into say quarters), and then doing the design like that allow me to use hardwood? That's all for now. I'll be picking up the drivers soon, and buying the wood based on the answer to my above question. Thanks again! |
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