At the other end of the bench, i think MDF is an unsuitablematerial for making (good) speaker boxes. Al's suggestion of solid is good, this kind of construction eliminates many of the downsides of solid. To get any real advantage the deltas of internal dimensions will need to be considerably larger and the outside should be smooth.
dave
@ talaerts
Really like this idea for a school/Art project (looks like an A to me). Might be able to talk the guy at HD to make the cuts/rips (go early before they get busy)
Never did say anything about the drivers, check local Pawn shops, they have speakers stacked to the ceiling. You can cannibalize the parts and copy the internal volume. Look for a scratched up pair; tell them its a school project, they'll give you a deal.
Really like this idea for a school/Art project (looks like an A to me). Might be able to talk the guy at HD to make the cuts/rips (go early before they get busy)
Never did say anything about the drivers, check local Pawn shops, they have speakers stacked to the ceiling. You can cannibalize the parts and copy the internal volume. Look for a scratched up pair; tell them its a school project, they'll give you a deal.
I like the look of the OP's design. Something easier would be the method used in this design from the German magazine K&T: in essence every layer is a rectangular frame and these are glued on each other. Obviously care must be taken to have all angles right.
Sorry for not replying to all of these, I will in a couple days when I get some time.
What do you mean by this?
What do you mean by this?
A lot of theories out there morgoe. I feel that the back wave needs to expand and dampened at the same time. Pic of ongoing build ~
AND keep the front/face baffle board small. Rounding the front edges sounds good to me, and have also been doing that recently.
AND keep the front/face baffle board small. Rounding the front edges sounds good to me, and have also been doing that recently.
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Hi,
Well the original idea won't really work with the major internal standing
waves so back to stuffing a sealed box and stuffing lining a vented box.
(And a pig to get to look nice.)
Externally the shape of the box affects its diffraction signature. Internally
the airspace loads the bass, simply as in sealed, more complicated in
vented, and further more complicated in TLs, MLTLs, ExMLTLs/horns.
You also have cabinet vibration to consider and internal midrange damping.
Then of course is the nitty/gritty details of driver selection and x/o design.
The theory is really about what floats your boat and what your trying to
achieve, but you need a least a technically solid theme for the design.
rgds, sreten.
Sorry for the delay, I've been busy.
I spoke to my teacher, and he dug the design. He suggested rings, which I think someone else here brought up. Rings would make it easier to do a spherical/cylindrical design. I'm just wondering if using rings instead of little blocks will force me back to using MDF again? If not, then we're good. If it would, then would splitting the rings up (into say quarters), and then doing the design like that allow me to use hardwood?
That's all for now. I'll be picking up the drivers soon, and buying the wood based on the answer to my above question. Thanks again!
I spoke to my teacher, and he dug the design. He suggested rings, which I think someone else here brought up. Rings would make it easier to do a spherical/cylindrical design. I'm just wondering if using rings instead of little blocks will force me back to using MDF again? If not, then we're good. If it would, then would splitting the rings up (into say quarters), and then doing the design like that allow me to use hardwood?
That's all for now. I'll be picking up the drivers soon, and buying the wood based on the answer to my above question. Thanks again!
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