First of all I would like to say hello to everyone and thank you for your input!
This is my first post and really just a toe in the water for me and a little bit of basic advice from what seems to be the best audio website on the web!
So, I have been a long time hi-fi nut, and audioholic, and over the last few months found active speakers.
I swapped my old Acoustic Engergy speakers and Arcam FMJ CD player and amp, for an audiolab CDQ plugged via XLR straight into the back of two Focal CMS65 studio monitors - I have never experienced anything like it - the difference is like night and day.
So I am sold on active crossovers and active speakers!
Just before I did this, however, I was about to buy a passive speaker kit from Wilmslow Audio specifically this one:
PRESTIGE - Silver
As I have heard them and thought they were excellent. I am a keen DIY'er and thought this would be within my skills as it is already designed and set up, just basic wood work and electronic skills.
So finally to my question......
As I am a complete convert to active speakers, could I buy the cabinet kit and drivers from Wilmslow audio, along with a active 3-way crossover like the behringer CX3400:
Behringer: SUPER-X PRO CX3400
And a 6 channel power amp like this:
150 WATT x 6 CHANNEL AMPLIFIER | Line & Zone Amplifiers | Audio Amplifiers
Then I could run my audiolabCDQ into the CX3400, which then feeds the 6 channel power amp and drives the speakers?
Would this work? I could speak to Wilmslow to ask them about their passive crossover points, so that shouldn't be a problem. I know that the basic soldering of speakers and building of the cabs would be within my grasp, then its just lots of xlr-xlr cables, and a whole lot of fiddling with the CX3400.....
Or would I need all sorts of test equipment and knowledge to get the CX3400 set up to do a decent job?
The way I see it, if I can get this to work, £2000 ish should get me a fantastic pair of active 3-way floor standing speakers, with great drivers.......something I would love.
I have looked and looked and their are lots of passive speaker kits on the market but no active ones I can find....
Thanks for your help, and sorry for the long first post!
This is my first post and really just a toe in the water for me and a little bit of basic advice from what seems to be the best audio website on the web!
So, I have been a long time hi-fi nut, and audioholic, and over the last few months found active speakers.
I swapped my old Acoustic Engergy speakers and Arcam FMJ CD player and amp, for an audiolab CDQ plugged via XLR straight into the back of two Focal CMS65 studio monitors - I have never experienced anything like it - the difference is like night and day.
So I am sold on active crossovers and active speakers!
Just before I did this, however, I was about to buy a passive speaker kit from Wilmslow Audio specifically this one:
PRESTIGE - Silver
As I have heard them and thought they were excellent. I am a keen DIY'er and thought this would be within my skills as it is already designed and set up, just basic wood work and electronic skills.
So finally to my question......
As I am a complete convert to active speakers, could I buy the cabinet kit and drivers from Wilmslow audio, along with a active 3-way crossover like the behringer CX3400:
Behringer: SUPER-X PRO CX3400
And a 6 channel power amp like this:
150 WATT x 6 CHANNEL AMPLIFIER | Line & Zone Amplifiers | Audio Amplifiers
Then I could run my audiolabCDQ into the CX3400, which then feeds the 6 channel power amp and drives the speakers?
Would this work? I could speak to Wilmslow to ask them about their passive crossover points, so that shouldn't be a problem. I know that the basic soldering of speakers and building of the cabs would be within my grasp, then its just lots of xlr-xlr cables, and a whole lot of fiddling with the CX3400.....
Or would I need all sorts of test equipment and knowledge to get the CX3400 set up to do a decent job?
The way I see it, if I can get this to work, £2000 ish should get me a fantastic pair of active 3-way floor standing speakers, with great drivers.......something I would love.
I have looked and looked and their are lots of passive speaker kits on the market but no active ones I can find....
Thanks for your help, and sorry for the long first post!
You're comparing 2 totally different speakers - how do you know it was the active crossover that made it so much better?
Just having the crossover points won't recreate the Wilmslow speaker, you need to be able to recreate the driver specific transfer functions.
I've got the Behr CX2310, which I think is a 2-way version of the 3100. To me, these are pretty crippled compared to more modern equipment, for example miniDSP. It's about more than just spinning the knob to get the right crossover point.
That said, I'm also the kind of guy to jump in head first and learn as I go. I'd advise looking into miniDSP, or the Behr DCX2496 rather than the cheap analog boxes.. Much more flexibilty. If you're anything like me you'll end up going that route in a few months anyways
Beautiful cabinets. Amazingly expensive(And great) drivers. It would be a let down to use a Behringer product on them. I use Behringer products exclusively(Except for a tube amp on my midtweets) in my own high value system, but I wouldn't on something like that(The amplifier is also questionable) Those drivers would ruthlessly reveal the limitations of the upstream electronics. My BG Neo 10's are also ruthlessly revealing. That's why I use a tube amp on them.
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Hi,
Unless the active x/o can be set to any electrical x/o function, its useless for hifi.
The more up market active x/o can be, the lower ones can't, they do standard.
I severely doubt Wilmslow Audio would give you the required transfer functions.
I like active speakers, or semi active, e.g. active bass to mid, passive mid/treble.
Value wise you can do a lot better, i.e. not as good but a shedload lot less.
rgds, sreten.
Unless the active x/o can be set to any electrical x/o function, its useless for hifi.
The more up market active x/o can be, the lower ones can't, they do standard.
I severely doubt Wilmslow Audio would give you the required transfer functions.
I like active speakers, or semi active, e.g. active bass to mid, passive mid/treble.
Value wise you can do a lot better, i.e. not as good but a shedload lot less.
rgds, sreten.
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A really good crossover..
DEQX High Definition Audio
Ironic that the calibration kit includes a Behringer mic..
DEQX High Definition Audio
Ironic that the calibration kit includes a Behringer mic..
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Thanks for your help guys!
So it looks like it is feasable, but not with the eletronics I specified and possibly with a digital X/O rather than analogue?
The problem I have, is that I really like the audiolab CDQ, it has a wonderful dac, great digital and analogue preamps and a really lovely sound (plus interesting digital filter options which I like to play with!)
I am guessing that one of the digital X/Os would mean CD player: - DAC to analogue balanced output - Digital X/O: ADC - signal split three ways - DAC (again) - speaker......So this means the signal undergoes multiple conversions which seems crazy to me....
I was hoping to keep the CDQ for dac duties and then use analogue active X/O downstream.....so there is only one DAC and then all analogue....
What about those speakers and a pair of descent plate amps? Like these:
Madisound Speaker Store
Sorry I am so ignorant!
So it looks like it is feasable, but not with the eletronics I specified and possibly with a digital X/O rather than analogue?
The problem I have, is that I really like the audiolab CDQ, it has a wonderful dac, great digital and analogue preamps and a really lovely sound (plus interesting digital filter options which I like to play with!)
I am guessing that one of the digital X/Os would mean CD player: - DAC to analogue balanced output - Digital X/O: ADC - signal split three ways - DAC (again) - speaker......So this means the signal undergoes multiple conversions which seems crazy to me....
I was hoping to keep the CDQ for dac duties and then use analogue active X/O downstream.....so there is only one DAC and then all analogue....
What about those speakers and a pair of descent plate amps? Like these:
Madisound Speaker Store
Sorry I am so ignorant!
Actually, the cheap Bheringer does quite well. Better than most speakers and most amps. The DCX is a lot more useful as you can do baffle step and one additional filter per output. You can run your CD PCM right into the DCX, but then you are stuck using the DCX DSP section for overall gain. That gets clumsily. It's DAC is not that bad. Remember, it was built for PA speakers, not home hi-fi. Yes, the multiple conversions does degrade the sound. That is why I still build passive crossovers.
If your DIY goal is to build one set of speakers, build an established design. If you want to learn about speaker building, I know it may seem contrite, but start at step one. Read. Read a lot. You have to learn about how to measure drivers both electrically and acoustically. You have to learn about phase interactions. You have to learn about how the size of the radius on a box corner can dramatically change the sound. You learn that that darn hump at 800 is really a miss-aligned BSC.
A sub is a good place to start. Sealed easier than ported. Don't build expensive boxes for you first speakers unless it is an established design. You will learn many tricks and preferences in cabinets as you build a lot of prototypes. You throw away prototypes, so keep the cabinet cheap. You will built a lot of crossovers, so use cheap electrolytics until you get close. Then use good caps in your final. So much to learn. I an a rookie. Only about 35 years off and on. Every build for me has targeted some other aspect to explore.
Back to active crossovers. Love them. Expensive. ( don't forget, everything but the woofer still needs a DC blocking cap, or else!) They can be far easier to dial in. I suggest you get the new D. Self book on active crossovers. Even if you don't want to build one, it is quite an education. So, the money you were about to spend on a cheap PA crossover where you don't have control over slope or any additional filtering is better spent on a book. Then get D'Appolito's book on measuring loudspeakers. Again, background information is really important. Learn from the best.
PS: I still use one Behringer as a sub crossover. Slightly modified, but in this (rare) case, a symmetrical 4th order is just what I needed. I don't think any of my speakers have symmetrical crossovers in them.
PPS: "Decent" plate amps? Please go read Self's book on active crossovers.
If your DIY goal is to build one set of speakers, build an established design. If you want to learn about speaker building, I know it may seem contrite, but start at step one. Read. Read a lot. You have to learn about how to measure drivers both electrically and acoustically. You have to learn about phase interactions. You have to learn about how the size of the radius on a box corner can dramatically change the sound. You learn that that darn hump at 800 is really a miss-aligned BSC.
A sub is a good place to start. Sealed easier than ported. Don't build expensive boxes for you first speakers unless it is an established design. You will learn many tricks and preferences in cabinets as you build a lot of prototypes. You throw away prototypes, so keep the cabinet cheap. You will built a lot of crossovers, so use cheap electrolytics until you get close. Then use good caps in your final. So much to learn. I an a rookie. Only about 35 years off and on. Every build for me has targeted some other aspect to explore.
Back to active crossovers. Love them. Expensive. ( don't forget, everything but the woofer still needs a DC blocking cap, or else!) They can be far easier to dial in. I suggest you get the new D. Self book on active crossovers. Even if you don't want to build one, it is quite an education. So, the money you were about to spend on a cheap PA crossover where you don't have control over slope or any additional filtering is better spent on a book. Then get D'Appolito's book on measuring loudspeakers. Again, background information is really important. Learn from the best.
PS: I still use one Behringer as a sub crossover. Slightly modified, but in this (rare) case, a symmetrical 4th order is just what I needed. I don't think any of my speakers have symmetrical crossovers in them.
PPS: "Decent" plate amps? Please go read Self's book on active crossovers.
OK read a bit more about the miniDSP and it seems it is designed to take an analogue signal, split it in the digital domain then chuck it back out in a split analogue signal, so whilst if you are using a digital source it will undergo, DAC, then ADC, then DAC again, this doesn't seem to be a problem?!?
Am I right that this is preferable to using an analogue active crossover?
If so, then the miniDSP 2x8 kit would seem ideal to drive a decent 3-way floor stander.
The next problem would be what amps to use though - should I use plate amps, or a central unit....
Am I right that this is preferable to using an analogue active crossover?
If so, then the miniDSP 2x8 kit would seem ideal to drive a decent 3-way floor stander.
The next problem would be what amps to use though - should I use plate amps, or a central unit....
Hi TVR geek posted before I read yours! So I am gathering there is no simple step to building a 'kit speaker'!!!!
I was hoping to use it a way of keeping costs down and just doing the assembly myself, but as there is currently no sorted active speaker kit available, I would have to come up with one myself, which seems to be infinately more complex than I imagined!!
I think you have given excellent advice! I will keep reading!
I was hoping to use it a way of keeping costs down and just doing the assembly myself, but as there is currently no sorted active speaker kit available, I would have to come up with one myself, which seems to be infinately more complex than I imagined!!
I think you have given excellent advice! I will keep reading!
The geek has good advice. I've been building speakers for years, and still occasionally get nobbled by three ways. Start with a sub or simple two way with cheapish drivers, (you can still get very good results, I'm still using to my active sub/sat system I built years ago that cost about £50 in drivers), a few chip amps to power the system, some basic measurement equipment and Self's book and you'll have years of fun.
Hang on here... that is an *expensive* "kit" speaker.
Seems like on the order of $3,000USD??
So, the question is what is the ultimate goal and what is the budget for the project as a whole?
It would not make much sense to run a signal chain of significantly lower *quality* than the speaker. Price is not equivalent to quality.
I see a few options.
Assuming the OP likes these drivers, the main drivers (the ATC and ScanSpeak) are easy enough to source. For the bass section one can choose from a wide variety and brand, all of whom will likely do as well or better for bass. That leaves a cabinet. The sexy cabinet won't really do that much for the sound, although some cabinet design factors are important. So, some other cabinet could be used or built or found.
In fact the speaker does not need to be built as a single unit. The drivers could all have their own enclosures, or the mid/tweet could be one, and the bass section another (larger is mo' bettah) enclosure.
Given that you want to tri-amp or biamp, the sensitivities of the drivers do NOT need to be matched as they would be in a passive, all-in-one design. Rather you can pick for other factors... or go with the same mid/tweet combo.
You will find that everything is a compromise and a balancing act. Everything.
What you want is Vance Dickason's Loudspeaker Cookbook to start. That has more information than you want, and you will initially drown in it, trying to digest.
Then you will need some FFT type loudspeaker measurement software so you can literally see the results.
After that, make some choices and tweak away!
One way to get rolling is to build something that is cheap, simple and easy. Test and tweak that to get ur feet wet before committing to the high $$ stuff.
There are a number of "kits" that are inexpensive from Madisound and Parts Express. Merely converting a passive little two way to an active two way will give you significant experience in the process, assuming you can measure the results and see what is entailed.
As far as amplification (for a finished high quality build), if you want to "save money" by doing work, you'll need a kit or DIY PCB... there are a great number of really great designs on here, some of which have pcbs being sold (discrete and chipamp) and also consider tubes for the mids and/or highs as a possibility. For a test case/trial, anything will do.
In general you might want to think higher power class AB for the bass, and class A for the mids and highs... although some would argue for certain AB amps there too...
Many folks here have actually built up a variety of different amps of different types.
The variations and possibilities are pretty darn large.
Then too, you can think about a DIY ESL for similar (or less) $$ to the costs of the drivers alone that you are talking about!
_-_-bear
Seems like on the order of $3,000USD??
So, the question is what is the ultimate goal and what is the budget for the project as a whole?
It would not make much sense to run a signal chain of significantly lower *quality* than the speaker. Price is not equivalent to quality.
I see a few options.
Assuming the OP likes these drivers, the main drivers (the ATC and ScanSpeak) are easy enough to source. For the bass section one can choose from a wide variety and brand, all of whom will likely do as well or better for bass. That leaves a cabinet. The sexy cabinet won't really do that much for the sound, although some cabinet design factors are important. So, some other cabinet could be used or built or found.
In fact the speaker does not need to be built as a single unit. The drivers could all have their own enclosures, or the mid/tweet could be one, and the bass section another (larger is mo' bettah) enclosure.
Given that you want to tri-amp or biamp, the sensitivities of the drivers do NOT need to be matched as they would be in a passive, all-in-one design. Rather you can pick for other factors... or go with the same mid/tweet combo.
You will find that everything is a compromise and a balancing act. Everything.
What you want is Vance Dickason's Loudspeaker Cookbook to start. That has more information than you want, and you will initially drown in it, trying to digest.
Then you will need some FFT type loudspeaker measurement software so you can literally see the results.
After that, make some choices and tweak away!
One way to get rolling is to build something that is cheap, simple and easy. Test and tweak that to get ur feet wet before committing to the high $$ stuff.
There are a number of "kits" that are inexpensive from Madisound and Parts Express. Merely converting a passive little two way to an active two way will give you significant experience in the process, assuming you can measure the results and see what is entailed.
As far as amplification (for a finished high quality build), if you want to "save money" by doing work, you'll need a kit or DIY PCB... there are a great number of really great designs on here, some of which have pcbs being sold (discrete and chipamp) and also consider tubes for the mids and/or highs as a possibility. For a test case/trial, anything will do.
In general you might want to think higher power class AB for the bass, and class A for the mids and highs... although some would argue for certain AB amps there too...
Many folks here have actually built up a variety of different amps of different types.
The variations and possibilities are pretty darn large.
Then too, you can think about a DIY ESL for similar (or less) $$ to the costs of the drivers alone that you are talking about!
_-_-bear
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If you like the idea of active speakers, then you should have a go.
N.B. As someone has already mentioned, the drivers in the PRESTIGE design are fairly high end (and low distortion), so they will likley reveal cheap/bad components upstream.
I have given active threeways much thought, as I want to be in control of my end sound/voicing. But, ultimately I have decided to stick with passive crossovers. This was largely because I did not want to buy 6x mono amps, and also because I wanted a system that was flexible, and not just designed for active three way speaker operation. The active idea sounds easy but once you look into it, more is needed. I may be doing myself a disservice with not going down the active route???
During my decision making process, I have come to a few conclusions that may be useful to you:
Firstly, and most importantly: It would be very unlikley that you would not create an excellent speaker. As a previous poster mentioned, all you have to do is pick three drivers that you like and which are suited to their task (bass, mid, high), put them in cabinets suited to the drivers, and then sort the rest out with active crossover slopes etc.
The Behringer DCX unit is very capable and will be more than you need. It has an excellent DAC, but it is not high end, as the output stages are cheap, and the power supply is rubbish. These units can be upgraded by companies like AUDIOSMILE at a cost. You would still need to use a six channel volume control. This starts to get expensive. Also you end up with lots of uglyish boxes in your rack.
The miniDSP units seem to be the way to go, but they have only average DACs, and you should avoid lots of uneccessary ADC/DAC conversions. Your speaker choice suggests that you seem to be aiming for a high end sound, so these may not be up to scratch. miniDSP have recently released a new unit, the nano DIGI, which takes a digital source and can split it three ways (with active filters), and output 3x digital signals. You would then need 3x decent DACs, and then find a way to control the volume. OR, you could use the Twisted Pear Buffallo III, which will take three stereo digital inputs, and DAC them with a very high degree of quality. It also has a digital volume control built in. You would need three output stages though (like IVY). If you are going down the Twisted Pear Audio route then you may as well add a MUX reciever in front of the nanoDIGI, so that you can switch between multiple digital sources (if you need to).
There are lots of amplifier choices, but I have decided on Hypex UCD180units. Not too expensive, yet will not be a bottleneck in sound quality. I have gone the whole hog and opted for HG hxr versions. Who knows whether the extra spend was required.
Gotta go now. Fee free to ask any questions. I probably have not made much sense.
N.B. As someone has already mentioned, the drivers in the PRESTIGE design are fairly high end (and low distortion), so they will likley reveal cheap/bad components upstream.
I have given active threeways much thought, as I want to be in control of my end sound/voicing. But, ultimately I have decided to stick with passive crossovers. This was largely because I did not want to buy 6x mono amps, and also because I wanted a system that was flexible, and not just designed for active three way speaker operation. The active idea sounds easy but once you look into it, more is needed. I may be doing myself a disservice with not going down the active route???
During my decision making process, I have come to a few conclusions that may be useful to you:
Firstly, and most importantly: It would be very unlikley that you would not create an excellent speaker. As a previous poster mentioned, all you have to do is pick three drivers that you like and which are suited to their task (bass, mid, high), put them in cabinets suited to the drivers, and then sort the rest out with active crossover slopes etc.
The Behringer DCX unit is very capable and will be more than you need. It has an excellent DAC, but it is not high end, as the output stages are cheap, and the power supply is rubbish. These units can be upgraded by companies like AUDIOSMILE at a cost. You would still need to use a six channel volume control. This starts to get expensive. Also you end up with lots of uglyish boxes in your rack.
The miniDSP units seem to be the way to go, but they have only average DACs, and you should avoid lots of uneccessary ADC/DAC conversions. Your speaker choice suggests that you seem to be aiming for a high end sound, so these may not be up to scratch. miniDSP have recently released a new unit, the nano DIGI, which takes a digital source and can split it three ways (with active filters), and output 3x digital signals. You would then need 3x decent DACs, and then find a way to control the volume. OR, you could use the Twisted Pear Buffallo III, which will take three stereo digital inputs, and DAC them with a very high degree of quality. It also has a digital volume control built in. You would need three output stages though (like IVY). If you are going down the Twisted Pear Audio route then you may as well add a MUX reciever in front of the nanoDIGI, so that you can switch between multiple digital sources (if you need to).
There are lots of amplifier choices, but I have decided on Hypex UCD180units. Not too expensive, yet will not be a bottleneck in sound quality. I have gone the whole hog and opted for HG hxr versions. Who knows whether the extra spend was required.
Gotta go now. Fee free to ask any questions. I probably have not made much sense.
Thanks again for your very useful posts!
Again, I realise this is probably well beyond my capabilities at present, but what is wrong with using an analgue active crossover.
Most studio monitors which by definition have to have very high fidelity, have a simple XLR input, then analogue crossover to the amps, whether 2-way or 3-way.
Or are there no decent analogue crossovers, or is it more to do with the flexibility of a digital crossover? (Again I am think about using my audiolab as the source and minimising conversions and poor DACs/output stages)
To my simple logic, it would seem most obvious to take a well designed passive 3-way kit speaker and make it active (therefore I only need to worry about the crossover and amplification, rather than designing the box and spending ages thinking about driver choice).
Again, I realise this is probably well beyond my capabilities at present, but what is wrong with using an analgue active crossover.
Most studio monitors which by definition have to have very high fidelity, have a simple XLR input, then analogue crossover to the amps, whether 2-way or 3-way.
Or are there no decent analogue crossovers, or is it more to do with the flexibility of a digital crossover? (Again I am think about using my audiolab as the source and minimising conversions and poor DACs/output stages)
To my simple logic, it would seem most obvious to take a well designed passive 3-way kit speaker and make it active (therefore I only need to worry about the crossover and amplification, rather than designing the box and spending ages thinking about driver choice).
As has been previously mentioned, to do an analogue crossover AND get the same result as the well designed passive crossover, the transfer functions of the active filters need to match the transfer functions of the passive filters.
If you go with a generic active crossover you apply a certain electrical slope to your speakers and get (once it combines with the drivers natural response) a different slope.
When designing a passive crossover the filter will be designed (if it has been done properly) to get a particular acoustic slope (the slope of the filter may be quite different and there may also be response shaping circuitry in the passive crossover to deal with resonances cone breakup etc).
So if the passive crossover results in a 24db/octave LR acoustic slope you can't just get a 24db / octave active filter and apply it at the same crossover point and expect it to work properly
A DSP based crossover allows much more flexibility in tailoring the crossover, it can be done with analogue as well, but I think that it would be beyond what you are thinking.
Tony.
If you go with a generic active crossover you apply a certain electrical slope to your speakers and get (once it combines with the drivers natural response) a different slope.
When designing a passive crossover the filter will be designed (if it has been done properly) to get a particular acoustic slope (the slope of the filter may be quite different and there may also be response shaping circuitry in the passive crossover to deal with resonances cone breakup etc).
So if the passive crossover results in a 24db/octave LR acoustic slope you can't just get a 24db / octave active filter and apply it at the same crossover point and expect it to work properly
A DSP based crossover allows much more flexibility in tailoring the crossover, it can be done with analogue as well, but I think that it would be beyond what you are thinking.
Tony.
Ahh. Now, I see the light.
Thank you so much. OK, so studio monitors and actives using analogue active crossovers, must have spent a long time modelling and testing the crossovers to get it just right, and this would likely be beyond my skills/kit ti acheive, whereas, some softwear and a digital crossover greatly simplifies this process.
OK. That's that then!
So, I know people have said that plate amps are not up to the job, but what about something like the digmoda ddc 1055, is this just too poor for the job?
Out of interest - I know everyone does DIY here and that is the whole point, but would I be able to construct the cabinets, install the drivers, buy the amps/DSP and then delivery it to someone with more skill/knowlege/kit than me to set-up?
Doess anyone here offer this kind of service? I guess it would be the same as building a kit car, then getting the engine tuned and sorted by a professional....
Thank you so much. OK, so studio monitors and actives using analogue active crossovers, must have spent a long time modelling and testing the crossovers to get it just right, and this would likely be beyond my skills/kit ti acheive, whereas, some softwear and a digital crossover greatly simplifies this process.
OK. That's that then!
So, I know people have said that plate amps are not up to the job, but what about something like the digmoda ddc 1055, is this just too poor for the job?
Out of interest - I know everyone does DIY here and that is the whole point, but would I be able to construct the cabinets, install the drivers, buy the amps/DSP and then delivery it to someone with more skill/knowlege/kit than me to set-up?
Doess anyone here offer this kind of service? I guess it would be the same as building a kit car, then getting the engine tuned and sorted by a professional....
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Its all in the crossover & measurement tools
Hi Bushmeister,
If you are near Cambridge, pop in for a listen and you can hear how I solved the same set of problems you now face.
Basically I found the best way to ensure real Hi End sound AND protect yourself from huge £ depreciation and losses on "stepping stone" and "learning curve" equipment mistakes is to bite the bullet and find the cash for a DEQX.
Wait a wee while and look out for a used one (£1,200 gets a good spec unit) already in the UK as buying a new one from Australia is a £2,500 to £ 3,000 bill after shipping, import duty and VAT. Ouwch!
The rest is easy…!
First select really great drivers, Pro drivers are so much better and well worth the money.My top choices for your system are:
The seductive Beyma TPL AMT tweeter,
http://profesional.beyma.com/ingles/pdf/TPL150.pdf
cross it over at 1,400 Hz to the astonishingly good 10 inch midrange Volt 10 BM2500.4in a sealed box of approx. 30 litres Volt Loudspeakers - About Us
and finish with a sealed box bass volume of 60 Litres to 120 Litres with a Beyma
http://profesional.beyma.com/ingles/pdf/12SW1300Nd.pdf
or Precision Devices PD1550 15 inch basshttp://www.precision-devices.com/showdetails.asp?id=14
depending on size of cabinet you can fit in your room.
Build simple but solid MDF or Birch Ply ( much better) cabinets with some extra bitumen / lead damping pads and fibre glass ( sealed inside 100% cotton sleeves) stuffing. Get local automotive guys to spray paint the MDF or local joiner to stain and varnish the Ply.
MUST build separate boxes for each driver and separate with Sorbothane pads. Buy 1 square foot approx. of 10mm thick Sorbothane and cut 16 squares ( one on each corner) to isolate tweeter from mids and mids from bass. Added benefit of not needing to use DSP to time align drivers as you can do it physically and allow for vertical tilting if required by listening position.
Fit 3 large spikes in a triangular pattern, one at each front corner and one central / rear of the bass cabinets to anchor bass cabinets to floor.
Make up your own simple cables and interconnects using good quality solid core silver, single 0.6mm for interconnects, triple cores for tweeter, 4 cores for mids and eight cores for bass. Use short runs and have one three channel power amp behind each speaker or ( best) 3 mono blocks behind each speaker.
Run digital out from your source (Single ended or balanced) and use the on-board DEQX 6 channel DAC’s.
You will be blown away by the results!
If you come into even more cash in the future you can simply bypass the DEQX internal DAC’s and use 6 channels of TP Buffalo e DAC’s or something else equally wonderful.
Good luck and enjoy the research and reading for a few months, then and only then spend your cash!
Derek.
Hi Bushmeister,
If you are near Cambridge, pop in for a listen and you can hear how I solved the same set of problems you now face.
Basically I found the best way to ensure real Hi End sound AND protect yourself from huge £ depreciation and losses on "stepping stone" and "learning curve" equipment mistakes is to bite the bullet and find the cash for a DEQX.
Wait a wee while and look out for a used one (£1,200 gets a good spec unit) already in the UK as buying a new one from Australia is a £2,500 to £ 3,000 bill after shipping, import duty and VAT. Ouwch!
The rest is easy…!
First select really great drivers, Pro drivers are so much better and well worth the money.My top choices for your system are:
The seductive Beyma TPL AMT tweeter,
http://profesional.beyma.com/ingles/pdf/TPL150.pdf
cross it over at 1,400 Hz to the astonishingly good 10 inch midrange Volt 10 BM2500.4in a sealed box of approx. 30 litres Volt Loudspeakers - About Us
and finish with a sealed box bass volume of 60 Litres to 120 Litres with a Beyma
http://profesional.beyma.com/ingles/pdf/12SW1300Nd.pdf
or Precision Devices PD1550 15 inch basshttp://www.precision-devices.com/showdetails.asp?id=14
depending on size of cabinet you can fit in your room.
Build simple but solid MDF or Birch Ply ( much better) cabinets with some extra bitumen / lead damping pads and fibre glass ( sealed inside 100% cotton sleeves) stuffing. Get local automotive guys to spray paint the MDF or local joiner to stain and varnish the Ply.
MUST build separate boxes for each driver and separate with Sorbothane pads. Buy 1 square foot approx. of 10mm thick Sorbothane and cut 16 squares ( one on each corner) to isolate tweeter from mids and mids from bass. Added benefit of not needing to use DSP to time align drivers as you can do it physically and allow for vertical tilting if required by listening position.
Fit 3 large spikes in a triangular pattern, one at each front corner and one central / rear of the bass cabinets to anchor bass cabinets to floor.
Make up your own simple cables and interconnects using good quality solid core silver, single 0.6mm for interconnects, triple cores for tweeter, 4 cores for mids and eight cores for bass. Use short runs and have one three channel power amp behind each speaker or ( best) 3 mono blocks behind each speaker.
Run digital out from your source (Single ended or balanced) and use the on-board DEQX 6 channel DAC’s.
You will be blown away by the results!
If you come into even more cash in the future you can simply bypass the DEQX internal DAC’s and use 6 channels of TP Buffalo e DAC’s or something else equally wonderful.
Good luck and enjoy the research and reading for a few months, then and only then spend your cash!
Derek.
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