4 way active ,passive or what works best

[Helmuth]

Hi 56oval,

I think your doing very well, in driver choice and build quality of the enclosure.

I do want to warn you it will not be enough to make a nice sounding loudspeaker.
The tonal result is achieved by precise XO work and listing and improving, this also includes the right wire choice and capacitors and series resistance with the driver. This can take along time to tune the speaker to a level you say this is a near perfect cohered output.


I do not want to slow you down but want to motivate you to do much work on XO and components. I like passive but also active XO are influenced by capacitor sound quality. I experienced the level of bas to mid mid to high can make huge difference in how you the speaker sounds, even with small level shifts.
Keep on the good work I like the aluminium baffle I also had the same idea and wanted to do similar it in my own design.

[Upfront]

Can you divulge and crossover info 56? Or is it top secret?

[56oval]

Originally Posted by Helmuth

Hi 56oval,

I think your doing very well, in driver choice and build quality of the enclosure.

I do want to warn you it will not be enough to make a nice sounding loudspeaker.
The tonal result is achieved by precise XO work and listing and improving, this also includes the right wire choice and capacitors and series resistance with the driver. This can take along time to tune the speaker to a level you say this is a near perfect cohered output.


I do not want to slow you down but want to motivate you to do much work on XO and components. I like passive but also active XO are influenced by capacitor sound quality. I experienced the level of bas to mid mid to high can make huge difference in how you the speaker sounds, even with small level shifts.
Keep on the good work I like the aluminium baffle I also had the same idea and wanted to do similar it in my own design.

Morning HM
Thanks for the kind words
I have a couple experienced mates helping me out with the cross overs ,I don't have a clue about designing them .
When it comes to caps ,values first then maybe type latter ,build quality and reliablity .
Wire,required gauge then type .I'm not so hung up on it ,the room will dominate more than a correctly suited wire .
I have done the parts swapping thing for years and I thought it was time to do a complete build from scratch including room as part of the system .

Originally Posted by Upfront

Can you divulge and crossover info 56? Or is it top secret?

The Raven R1 xovers are in the middle of the pic in post #12 .

When I get to the xovers I'll post about there construction.

CHeers

[whgeiger]

Originally Posted by 56oval

Hello Diy

This is my first speaker project ,I have a habit of biting of more than I can chew when it comes to projects .
This project has been going for a number of years now ,life just gets in the way more often than not . I'm also building the electronics from frontend to amps which doesn't help .Plus I have no real electronics knowledge .Plus the room it self needs a bit of acoustic treatment .I was a its all about the front end ,but over the years I feel its more speaker ,xover room interaction .

Any here's a novice approache to speaker design and build .

The design ,seperate bass cab's to the mid section so I can move them around and swap out the top section for a Synergy horn ,designed by Paul Spencer ,but thats another project .
>snip<
Drivers ,I've heard the Raven tweeters a number of times and I really like how they sound & they sound really nice with PHL's .Bought the drivers from Pat @ War Audio in Perth ,Australia . Pat has been very helpful over the years .
>snip<
CHeers

For best results, use an active crossover with dedicated amplifiers, particularly to drive the Raven Ribbon [2]. Also protect this driver with a series capacitor in the drive circuit. Borbely designed a FET, Class-A, Ribbon Amplifier [3] specifically for this driver type. Enclose the drive unit in its own back-box as well. Your salami-slice construction method presents an opportunity to implement an anechoic treatment [1] of internal enclosure wall surfaces using felt strips.

[56oval]

Originally Posted by whgeiger

For best results, use an active crossover with dedicated amplifiers, particularly to drive the Raven Ribbon [2]. Also protect this driver with a series capacitor in the drive circuit. Borbely designed a FET, Class-A, Ribbon Amplifier [3] specifically for this driver type. Enclose the drive unit in its own back-box as well. Your salami-slice construction method presents an opportunity to implement an anechoic treatment [1] of internal enclosure wall surfaces using felt strips.

Morning

I have dedicated amps for the drivers in post #12 .A 300B SET's for the Ravens and PHL's .For the R1 the OPT's are wound to suit the impedence load 2ohm's & -3db to 100K flat to 60K xover funtion built into the amp.

I bought the drivers from WarAudio based in Perth ,Australia . I'v known Pat for the number of years and have heard speakers he's built and he's used the PHL's and Raven's 1,2 &3 in combination .All the amps circuits and iron was designed and made by a mate , Lucas from BlackArt Audio these guys will be helping me out with the xovers ,as I said I don't have a good understanding of xover design .

Like the idea of the felt ,I"ll be using Black Hole 5 in the cab's .But the strips of felt idea looks cool maybe I could use the BlackHole5 in the same way .

Thanks for the post ,thinking of decoupling the front baffle .

Cheers

Mal

[56oval]

He's the bass cab for the PHL 15"


The tapped horn using the a pair Alpine 12D4 per cab .Building 2 of these .


How its going to fit in the room .



On the left the Synergy horn version


CHeers

[whgeiger]

Originally Posted by 56oval

Morning

>snip<

Thanks for the post ,thinking of decoupling the front baffle .

Cheers

Mal

G'day,

Suspend the aluminum baffle from a wire and tap it with a hammer. What you hear should convince you not to attach it to an enclosure body using an elastic membrane or other such members.

Regards,

WHG

[56oval]

Originally Posted by whgeiger

G'day,

Suspend the aluminum baffle from a wire and tap it with a hammer. What you hear should convince you not to attach it to an enclosure body using an elastic membrane or other such members.

Regards,

WHG

Hi WHG

Looking at using one of Sika products ,used there products in the automotive trade.

Sika Australia | Sika Australia Pty. Ltd.

CHeers

Mal

[56oval]

My mate Roger came over today and we cut down the sheets further 28 pieces all up .I'm glad we didn't have to measure and mark each cut .
Cut the angles for the top & bottom plates for the base cab with the 28 degree angles .


28 cuts


Cheers

[56oval]

Its going to be a long day today .

Need to cut down a full sheet of disk to make the large radius round overs for the front of the cab's .A couple of test cuts to get my spacings right .


The rounded corners are in white


Cheers