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Old 29th August 2012, 12:08 PM   #1
H Burch is offline H Burch  United Kingdom
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Default wharfedale glendale 3xp fault, Help!

i have a lovely pair of wharfedale glendale 3xp's which i got dirt cheap but have discovered one of the mids is faulty. no noise atall comes out of it even when connected to seperate amplifier. so i dont think is the crossover. i have no idea whats wrong with it and i cant find any information about these drivers or replacements so i cant even buy originals. would love to fix if possible or if need replacement need to know technical info to find something suitable.

anyone know anything about these lovely speakers?

thanks H
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Old 29th August 2012, 02:43 PM   #2
system7 is offline system7  United Kingdom
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I used to run various Wharfedale speakers, so this is all reasonably familiar. Here's your Glendale 3XP model:

Click the image to open in full size.

Crossover is 800Hz and 4000Hz. The mid is a LEAK special perforated design. The tweeter looks like Wharfedale's standard plastic cone tweeter which could crossover as low as 1200Hz.

The simple way to test a drive unit is to connect it to a 1.5V battery. It will crackle if signs of life. This is safe with any drive unit, whereas connecting to an amp is not.

Replacement is a bit rough and ready and depends on crossover and cabinet enclosure details to some extent, but best done as a pair. I would quite fancy my chances with these two drivers:
Monacor SPP-90 Tweeter
Visaton M10-8 Cone midrange.

I would have these speakers apart first and see how they work. Note the wiring polarity before you disassemble, measure the cutout holes and any sub-enclosures, and draw a schematic of the crossover with capacitor values. Unless you have a very good multimeter, you cannot realy know the coil values. FWIW, I built a very good speaker in a Wharfedale cabinet with entirely new drive units and crossover. I could help you with that if I know the cutout sizes and cabinet dimensions.
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Old 29th August 2012, 09:15 PM   #3
H Burch is offline H Burch  United Kingdom
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you are literally amazing!
i have been banging my head against the wall trying to find anything about these speakers anywhere online but to no avail. i have been almost resigning to the idea that they are un fixable but i now have hope! i did have a stroke of luck after my initial posting however in finding a replacement on a well known internet auction site which i will have and hopefully that will sort it. i am however very interested in building replica cabs from these and filling them with new gear and judging by your post you are the man to talk to. is this a realistic idea or a fantasy i should leave as is?

on another note i was looking to figure out the specs of the crossover to ry and find out more but i think one coil has been fixed judging by the red tape in this pic. its the same on both cabs so im unsure if that may be a problem with the crossovers? what do you think?

thanks again!

H
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File Type: jpg cross.jpg (92.8 KB, 172 views)
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Old 29th August 2012, 11:03 PM   #4
sreten is offline sreten  United Kingdom
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Hi,

If you have swapped the midrange drivers between the speakers and
confirmed its a driver issue then fair enough get a replacement driver.

You got them dirt cheap and keep it that way, they are good
cheap and very poor if you start chucking money at them.

The red tape might be that they simply didn't have the right value tape.

rgds, sreten.

4KHz mid treble x/o frequency ? Probably applies to these Glendales :

Click the image to open in full size.

Typical "it looks right to the uniformed" driver layout, its bad.
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Last edited by sreten; 29th August 2012 at 11:27 PM.
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Old 30th August 2012, 04:42 AM   #5
system7 is offline system7  United Kingdom
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Those are the XP3 Glendales you are hotlinking, sreten. Different animal altogether. Dome tweeter, you see.

You really need to draw that schematic of the crossover, H Burch. We've got lucky with the coils being mostly marked along with the familiar Non Polar Capacitors of which I spot a 25uF. TWO 4mH coils. These speakers have a lot of bass I reckon.

10" bass, 4" mid and 3" cone tweeter it seems.

The mid evidently sits in a stuffed cardboard tube. The tweeter will have a stuffed plastic teacup-sized enclosure glue on, IIRC.

Need the hole diameters, and the PCD of the screws is useful too, being the diameter of the circle that makes the screw centres. This is 86dB sensitivity, so I'm looking for a 86-88dB 4" mid or midbass or even full range that will fit. Or, as you say, get the eBay one.

Let's get on with it.
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Well, there it is! Best regards from Steve in Portsmouth, UK.

Last edited by system7; 30th August 2012 at 05:05 AM.
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Old 31st August 2012, 07:22 PM   #6
H Burch is offline H Burch  United Kingdom
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hello again.

i was as previously stated looking to get my hands on the mid from ebay but someone has helpfully put an automated bidding program onto it and it keeps increasing way to far. i only paid 10 for the pair and aint happy payin nearly twice that for one driver!, especially considering i imagine i could find two new ones for that price. which brings me neatly onto my new/ original idea of buying two new midranges one for each.

if i was to draw up the crossover for the mid range output as you suggested steve with the capacitor and resistor values i can see and have a punt at measuring the midrange cardboard tube enclosure could someone help by heding me in the right direction for specs i would need for new driver.

I am quite new to the electronics aspect of speakers but its something i am very keen to get my head around so i can progress to building full range cabs and custom crossovers.

or if the replies above already have all i need to know i apolagise for being a tad useless but as i said the electronics are a bit new.

thanks for the help guys

Hugh
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Old 31st August 2012, 08:19 PM   #7
sreten is offline sreten  United Kingdom
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Hi,

SPW-130M/8 - Monacor high-quality hiFi midrange speaker 25Wmax 8Ω - Europe Audio

Might work, very limited choice on a low budget.

rgds, sreten.
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Old 1st September 2012, 02:40 AM   #8
system7 is offline system7  United Kingdom
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I like that midrange unit, sreten.

H. Burch, you gotta trust us on this. We need to know the hole diameters to guess what might fit physically. I'd like to know the size of the midrange enclosure too to get the Vas and Qts right too.

See if you can work out the crossover layout and as many values as you can get. It can be adjusted to fit the new midrange unit on sensitvity. We'll do that for you. Attenuators are quite straightforward. Just supply the information as requested. Sreten and me know what we are doing.
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Well, there it is! Best regards from Steve in Portsmouth, UK.
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Old 1st September 2012, 05:08 PM   #9
H Burch is offline H Burch  United Kingdom
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right then here we go!

I measured the Mid Range tube thus
diameter 12cm
length 20.4cm

the volume came out as
2268.5142857142837 cm cubed

OR

2.26851 liters (i assume this is the unit of choice)

the cap on the back of the tube is a bit warped due to age but this is as close as i can get.

the cutout for the driver is
10cm
the baffle is 1.5 cm thick

the screw holes are 13 cm apart and form a square

i have attached a schematic of the crossover on here for your viewing pleasure and as much of each component as i can read without taking it apart. (sorry its an attachment not on the post but for size seems better)

hope this is enough info for you guys
thanks again for your help

Hugh
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Old 1st September 2012, 07:50 PM   #10
system7 is offline system7  United Kingdom
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This is not a cheap fix, H Burch. Best I can see is this 33 89dB Monacor MSH-115 at Falcon Acoustics:

Monacor MSH-115. IMF 4/200 Midrange replacement

It's 101mm cutout. Looks OK on 2L enclosure size (Vas 4L, Qts 0.43). The 87dB MSH-115HQ is a possibility too, but looks awkward to fit to me with a 97mm cutout but not much margin on the screws or bolts.
Monacor: Products

Thing is this LEAK midrange you are replacing is a goodish component. I don't think a radio speaker will do.
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