3-way slimline tower speaker build, with photos - diyAudio
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Old 18th August 2012, 02:39 PM   #1
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Default 3-way slimline tower speaker build, with photos

Right then, just thought I'd share some pics of my latest undertaking, a 3 way tower speaker.
Driver compliment is Vifa D27TG-35-06 tweeters, Zaph Audio ZA14W08 midrange/upper bass and HiVi D10G woofers.
Cabinets will have a baffle width of 19 cm, overall depth of 44 cm, and a height of about 110 cm.
Standard symmetrical tweeter over woofer layout on the baffle, with the 10" woofer being side mounted. Midrange driver will be in an open back style enclosure, with the partition being on an upwards angle leading to a 40 mm terminus on the rear of the cabinet.
I am also doing away with the tweeters faceplate, and instead integrating the faceplate into the baffle.

These are some pics of tonights progress, I made my own circle jig for the router from some 1/2" mdf sheet, and it works very well. I had ordered a Jasper jig, but it hadn't arived in time and since I paid an extra $20 in shipping to receive my order from Madisound in half the time, I wanted to start as soon as I could .

I also marked the location of the screws on the cutouts for the mids, and used an angle bit in the router to cut away material from the inside edge of the cutout.

I am hoping to get use of an air powered staple gun tomorrow to help with the assembly, otherwise will just use panel pins to hold it all together while the glue dries. Be sure to check back as I add more photos, and any comments or suggestions are always welcome

Last edited by flyingtele; 18th August 2012 at 02:41 PM.
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Old 19th August 2012, 09:11 AM   #2
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Right, made some more progress tonight. Started to assemble the main cabinets and partitions, and then did the routing on the baffles for the mounting of the tweeters. Took lots of measuring and double checking that everything would line up, and thankfully the extra effort paid off as the tweeter domes line up perfectly when the three screws are done up.
So instead of using the tweeters faceplate I used a spade bit to create a 32mm hole, then went around the edge with a 9.5mm radius roundover bit, to give a nice even flare and then from the rear I routed away enough material so that I could screw the magnet and diaphragm directly to the baffle, making it the nre faceplate. The result is not too far off the original tweeter and should help with dispersion, as well as looking way better (in my opinion).
I also did a test fit of the drivers to make sure everything fits as intended, and it was a near perfect fit, so very happy with how things are going so far.
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Old 20th August 2012, 06:40 AM   #3
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How did you calculate the box dimensions , did you use any modelling softwarwe like winsamp . Did you measure the T/S parameters or used the spec sheets provided by the driver manufacturer.. And why did u plan side firing woofer..it was for visual aesthetics or any acoustic benefits
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Old 20th August 2012, 10:46 AM   #4
Dr_EM is offline Dr_EM  United Kingdom
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Looking good. You using those D10G sealed then? They need a large volume for ported, but can play very nicely in a sealed box, WinISD suggests around 100 litres for each driver sealed, -3dB at around 40Hz.
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Old 20th August 2012, 12:26 PM   #5
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Dr. EM, I am using a ported alignment for the D10G, and will be adding a rear port. I measured the specs myself for the driver, and they gave very similar results for the calculated box volume etc to the manufacturers specs. Ideal box was 120L or so with an f3 of around 25 Hz, but it had massive group delay on it and large phase distortion. After playing around I decided to reduce the box to 75 litres and raise the tuning point to around 33 Hz I think, as it gave huge reduction in group delay and less phase distortion. Sacrificing a few bottom notes for a better overall sound. The modelling programs just calculate the volume for maximum flat extension normally, but its not often the best sounding. And since response down to 30 Hz is enough not to need a subwoofer I think its a good compromise.

And to answer Akrambash, I chose to use a side firing woofer as it lets me keep the baffle narrow for reduced diffraction etc. As the lower frequencies are less directional, it can be acceptable to have the woofers on the side without affecting the stereo image etc (to a greater or lesser degree). I had a Dayton Audio WT3 for testing the Thiele-Small parameters (until it broke, grrrr) and I use bassbox pro for cabinet modelling, and sometimes winisd as a 'second opinion'

Last edited by flyingtele; 20th August 2012 at 12:33 PM.
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Old 22nd August 2012, 02:33 PM   #6
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Some more progress on the cabinets, cut out the side holes for the woofers and installed the T-nuts, and also added cabinet bracing.
Also, on the baffle I countersunk the screw holes for the tweeter, and I have installed four small neodymium slug magnets in the normal place where you would install the mounting plugs for grille pins. I drilled the mounting holes from the rear of the baffle and left about 1-1.5 mm of wood at the end so that the magnets are very close to the front surface but there is no visual indication of them, then filled the hole with glue. These will be used later to attach the grille frames that will have small pieces of iron to line up to the magnets to give nice and tidy grille mounting, that you can't see when the grilles are off (inspiration for that idea came after seeing a similar mounting system on some B&W bookshelf speakers on demo at a local electronics store)
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Screen shot 2012-08-23 at 2.23.07 AM.JPG (58.9 KB, 71 views)
File Type: jpg Screen shot 2012-08-23 at 2.23.23 AM.JPG (85.6 KB, 60 views)
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Old 25th August 2012, 06:38 AM   #7
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Another update on the build. Construction of the cabinets is now complete, so now its time to start installing the drivers and electrical bits, and start working on the crossover. I am waiting for my new dayton audio DATS woofer tester to arrive, after my WT3 stopped working (grrrrr), to observe the systems impedance peaks to aid in crossover design.
Will try the woofers in a sealed setup, and then depending on how they sound may port the cabinet.
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Old 27th August 2012, 11:39 AM   #8
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Today I lined the interior walls of the midrange enclosures with a dense felt-like absorbent material, which has really deadened the enclosure quite well. Before I installed it, I put my hand inside and snapped my fingers and it sounded quite bright and reflective. Afterwards it sounded much more dull with no ringing, and even talking into the mounting hole for the driver, it is very noticeably quieter and dead sounding.
No real surprises there, but it was quite surprising how well the material worked, and that;s just the wall lining.
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Old 28th August 2012, 03:50 AM   #9
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"I'm Late."
"I'm Late." ... "For a very important Date."
"No Time to say HELLO ...... GOODBYE..."
"I'm Late... I'm Late... I'm LATE." '

The KEF BLADE speaker is getting very good reviews.
The KEF BLADE engineering emphasis:
1) coherent mid-tweet source (coaxial used, but lambda/4 M-T also works)
2) reduced baffle diffraction
3) counter-force bass vibration control

Any diyAudio members thinking about a speaker similar to flyingtele might want to research the KEF Blade. Cardboard SonoTubes can be formed around wooden ribs to match the KEF Blade shape. There are a few baffle simulation tools that demonstrate the value of large radius diffraction management.

Reseach a few 8" coaxial speakers, as well as the small diameter SB29RDNC tweeter mounted RIGHT-NEXT-TO a wide bandwidth 7" midbass.

I like the RADIAN 508/2B
http://www.radianaudio.com/component...8%20Polars.pdf

B&C coaxes 8CX21 and 8CXN51 are used by Tom Danley
BEYMA 8BXN also worth a look.

"I'm Late... I'm Late... I'm LATE." '
Attached Images
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File Type: jpg KEFBlade_largeview.jpg (222.1 KB, 90 views)
File Type: jpg KEFblade_view2.jpg (52.9 KB, 94 views)
File Type: jpg kef-blade-speaker-unveiled-0-580x328.jpg (23.0 KB, 84 views)
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Old 28th August 2012, 07:56 AM   #10
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Looking good Flyingtele!

Were did you get the deadening from?
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